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fishhunter
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Post by fishhunter » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 10:09 pm

hi,
i have just recently bought a house that came with a Alaska channing III. the house is 2000 sf and fairly well insulated with all new replacent windows. should this be able to heat the entire house? I plan on cutting some registers in the flor to help the heat circulate to the second floor.i was unable to ask the previous owner because it was a foreclosure.it is in a room that seems like it was once a porch converted to part of the main house. it has its own stainless chimney that goes right through the top of the stove strait through the roof and maybe five ft above that. there is a section of roof maybe only 10 ft away that extens up another 15 ft. is this a correct set up? home inpector did not say anything but reading some of these treads makes me think otherwise.

 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 10:19 pm

That stove should be able to heat the entire house if you can get the hot air where it is needed. The chimney must be 2ft higher than any other part of the roof that is within 10 ft. So if your other roof falls beyond the 10ft mark you will be good to go,

 
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fishhunter
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Post by fishhunter » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 10:25 pm

i noticed that it looks like the barometric damper was intentionally removed and covered with a cap. should this setup have a baro installed on it.

jeremy


 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 10:32 pm

Yes you should have a barometric damper and a manometer to set it with..

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Wed. Aug. 27, 2008 11:20 pm

fishhunter wrote:i noticed that it looks like the barometric damper was intentionally removed and covered with a cap. should this setup have a baro installed on it.
You need the baro for coal, he may have capped it when he burned wood. A baro would feed a chimney fire with wood and also the creosote would ruin its balance quickly, making it useless when switching back to coal. It is not easy to remove.

 
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traderfjp
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Post by traderfjp » Thu. Aug. 28, 2008 12:09 am

You hit the jackpot. Good for you. My Alaska Channing 3 does my whole house and I only have one power register. A power register has a fan inside that helps to draw the air into the room it's located in. In the Winter I can feel the warm air moving up the stairs which is natural convection where the heat naturally rises to the second floor. You may want to run it for a few weeks before you start cutting up the house. These stoves can throw out lots of heat. Don't let the small grate fool you.


 
George-NJ
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Post by George-NJ » Thu. Aug. 28, 2008 10:59 am

Boy, your lucky the previous owners didn't take that stove when they left, most take or sell off anything of any value from the house when they know the sheriff is coming to put them out. Even looky loos looking at an empty house will sometimes come back and pilfer such things.

Your gonna love that stove...

 
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fishhunter
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Post by fishhunter » Thu. Aug. 28, 2008 5:25 pm

yah any other advice on coal and coal burning in general would be a big help. I have only burned pellets in the past which was straight forward with virtually no maintenance.it seems coal has alot more cleaning involved. I purchased 3 tons of coal from my local dealer at 265 a ton,should be arriving any day now. do you think I will need more? I plan on using coal as the only heat source and if nessessary turn on my electric oil filled space heaters. I do not want to pay a cent to the oil man at 375 a gallon locally for oil now here in central mass.
thanks
jeremy

 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Thu. Aug. 28, 2008 8:20 pm

fishhunter wrote:it seems coal has alot more cleaning involved.
I would not jump to a quick conclusion on that.
I have burned corn and pellets in the past and except for emptying the coal stove ash pan every day or two there is not as much cleaning involved as the pellet stove.

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