Damper really needed?

I have a LL top vent. I am using the SWG powervent setup with a rheostat. I also have a manometer to measure draft. Do I really need the damper. Without the damper I would slightly feel safer if the venter stops working but the stove is still running. The pipes would be sealed and less gasses get in house until the blocked vent switch shuts the stoker off. It seems as thought the venter gives very consistent suction so why the need for the baro damper. Thanks in advance. Tim

Isn't there interlock for the safety flue switch that stops the stoker if the power venter fails? Or you should have one installed so it will stop the stove from stoking and eventually go out if the exhaust gets blocked.

But, if the power venter is calibrated and you have a manometer and you can adjust the draft on the stove easily by varing the speed of the Power vent, I would think you can get away without it.

I do have the Field Controls wmo-1 fume switch. If the powerventer fails the switch will heat up and shut down the stoker. Does the stoker fan as it varies from 5000-90000 BTU's change the draft since the power venter would be set at one constant vacuum? Just not sure the benifits of a damper with a constant vaccum from the powerventer as compared to the variable draft of a chimney.

Hi Tim,
You do have variations with the power venter. When the wind blows against your house, it changes the speed of the SWG motor. this increases or decreases the draw. If it increases the draft and there is no way to compensate the excess draw, your in for a hopper fire. If it decreases the draft and there is no baro to close and compensate for slow down, you'll have gas in the house. Everytime someone enters or exists the house, the pressure changes in the house, without a baro you would need to go and adjust the rheostat. The baro takes all the work out of it. Just like our thermostat.
Jer

Hi All,
New to coal and getting ready to put in my Pioneer top vent. My brother-in-law,(long time coal burner, hand stoker), and I were discussing whether a power vent is actually needed. Doesn't the Pioneer have a fan for combustion that would make it a positive pressure system? If so, wouldn't a power vent be kind of redundant?

The other option is a exterior wall mount metalbestos chimney system with a cap that prevent downdrafts. We await your response with bated breath. Thanks.

The combustion fan adds pressure to the stove. Yes you need a power vent,class A metal chimney , or a masonary chimney to vent the products of combustion. If you don't you will have CO filling your home.

Gaptooth wrote:Doesn't the Pioneer have a fan for combustion that would make it a positive pressure system?

Yes, but not even near enough to vent. That combustion fans is just that, a combustion fan. To vent you need a chimney with draft or a powervent or a stove with direct vent.

Thank you all for your input. What would be your personal choice? Power vent or the metalbestos chimney? I like to do things right the first time so I don't have to rework it later.

In order it's recommended to go with a masonry chimney first since it will last you forever. Second it's the SS chimney which will give you about 10 years of life or so depending on the manufacturer and how well it's taken care of. Then it's the power vent which should give you about 5 years with proper maintenance. Of course cost's go down with with each different type of chimney with it's shorter life span.