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mufwapo
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Post by mufwapo » Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 9:06 am

I was just in the process of hooking both returns together and I can't seem to get a union to seal between them. The threaded connections are 2" threaded and I have 2 4" nipples sticking out into tee's with a union between them. I can't get everything to line up one way or another. I'm thinking of using a piece of copper in between there so I can just cut it to fit. I'd like to use a piece of 2" copper but I can't seem to find one. I only need about 1 foot.

 
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stoker-man
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
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Post by stoker-man » Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 11:19 am

A local hardware store, or plumber might have short pieces available.

 
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franpipeman
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Stoker Coal Boiler: efm 520 stoker fitzgibbons pressure vessel
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Post by franpipeman » Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 4:44 pm

swing joints two nineties looking down fill the the space between with the ninety unions and tee


 
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stoker-man
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Post by stoker-man » Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 7:29 pm

I asked my local hardware store today and they sell 2" copper by the foot, so I'm sure you can find some locally.

 
BillMarti
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Post by BillMarti » Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 8:25 pm

I had to remove the 2 rear reducers\plugs and the top pipe reducer :mad: . The top was reduced to 1" so I made a nylon plug to fit a 1"NPT hole (a little larger) and drilled a 1/4 inch hole in it,then I beat it in the 1"hole, then I got a 1 3/4 inch hole saw and used plenty of oil and drilled out the reducer. Now I used a sawzall and cut 2 slots about 1/2" apart just short of contacting female threads. You know have to tap the 1/2 " piece between the 2 cuts and if you do it just right the 1/2" piece should come out. The piece that's left should come out fairly easy just pick a spot close to the end and give it a few wacks and it should just about screw out. Don't be discouraged :cry: if it don't work the first try you have a 2 " circumference to keep trying. It took about 2 hours to complete each 1 but I cut a little deep into the back one :oops: but I don't think it'll be a problem I smutzed it up with high temp silicone sealer which I learned on another coal forum which pretty much guaranteed to seal inferior pipe fittings. I'm learning as the rest of you from the old timers(gee I think I fit being an old timer).

Thank to everybody who contributes
Bill S.

 
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kevin12973
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Post by kevin12973 » Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 8:29 pm

DSCN0283.JPG

This is how I piped mine. Swing joints make life easer.

.JPG | 1.3MB | DSCN0283.JPG


 
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billw
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Post by billw » Wed. Oct. 08, 2008 9:18 pm

Now I see what you mean by swing joints. Wish I knew that a couple of weeks ago. Getting mine together was a real adventure.

 
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franpipeman
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Stoker Coal Boiler: efm 520 stoker fitzgibbons pressure vessel
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Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: alpine propane condensing boiler radiant floor

Post by franpipeman » Thu. Oct. 09, 2008 3:41 pm

beautiful job Kevin I was going to use your picture as a example. well done

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Thu. Oct. 09, 2008 4:56 pm

kevin12973 wrote:
DSCN0283.JPG
The twin return legs generally are plumbed with TEE's branch side up and the outside port gets a pipe plug. This allows you to periodically clean the mud that settles in the boilers belly by rodding and flushing it out. This is more important with steam boilers as the amount of makeup water is significantly higher resulting in higher sediment loading. If there is a lot of mud accumulated at the bottom keeping water from the steel, it can crystallize the steel's molecular structure from the heat and it eventually crack when stressed.

Not a big deal in a home HW boiler, just want you to know how they are plumbed.

 
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kevin12973
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Post by kevin12973 » Sat. Oct. 11, 2008 10:08 pm

I like the idea of tees on the bottom of the boiler. If I could do it again I would go with a 2" X close nipple and then 2 X 2 X 1 1/4 tee. Put a 2" plug in one side and a reducer then drain. Always learn something on this forum. ;)

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