Return Piping

Re: Return Piping

PostBy: mufwapo On: Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:06 am

I was just in the process of hooking both returns together and I can't seem to get a union to seal between them. The threaded connections are 2" threaded and I have 2 4" nipples sticking out into tee's with a union between them. I can't get everything to line up one way or another. I'm thinking of using a piece of copper in between there so I can just cut it to fit. I'd like to use a piece of 2" copper but I can't seem to find one. I only need about 1 foot.
mufwapo
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM
Stove/Furnace Model: Boiler

Re: Return Piping

PostBy: stoker-man On: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:19 am

A local hardware store, or plumber might have short pieces available.
stoker-man
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove

Re: Return Piping

PostBy: franpipeman On: Wed Oct 08, 2008 4:44 pm

swing joints two nineties looking down fill the the space between with the ninety unions and tee
franpipeman
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: efm 520 stoker fitzgibbons pressure vessel
Hand Fed Coal Stove: harman, russo
Coal Size/Type: rice

Re: Return Piping

PostBy: stoker-man On: Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:29 pm

I asked my local hardware store today and they sell 2" copper by the foot, so I'm sure you can find some locally.
stoker-man
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove

Re: Return Piping

PostBy: BillMarti On: Wed Oct 08, 2008 8:25 pm

I had to remove the 2 rear reducers\plugs and the top pipe reducer :mad: . The top was reduced to 1" so I made a nylon plug to fit a 1"NPT hole (a little larger) and drilled a 1/4 inch hole in it,then I beat it in the 1"hole, then I got a 1 3/4 inch hole saw and used plenty of oil and drilled out the reducer. Now I used a sawzall and cut 2 slots about 1/2" apart just short of contacting female threads. You know have to tap the 1/2 " piece between the 2 cuts and if you do it just right the 1/2" piece should come out. The piece that's left should come out fairly easy just pick a spot close to the end and give it a few wacks and it should just about screw out. Don't be discouraged :cry: if it don't work the first try you have a 2 " circumference to keep trying. It took about 2 hours to complete each 1 but I cut a little deep into the back one :oops: but I don't think it'll be a problem I smutzed it up with high temp silicone sealer which I learned on another coal forum which pretty much guaranteed to seal inferior pipe fittings. I'm learning as the rest of you from the old timers(gee I think I fit being an old timer).

Thank to everybody who contributes
Bill S.
BillMarti
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM 520, 1980
Stove/Furnace Model: 520

Re: Return Piping

PostBy: kevin12973 On: Wed Oct 08, 2008 8:29 pm

DSCN0283.JPG
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This is how I piped mine. Swing joints make life easer.
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kevin12973
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM
Stove/Furnace Model: 1956 SF-520 hot water

Re: Return Piping

PostBy: billw On: Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:18 pm

Now I see what you mean by swing joints. Wish I knew that a couple of weeks ago. Getting mine together was a real adventure.
billw
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM 520
Stove/Furnace Model: GOODBYE OIL COMPANY

Re: Return Piping

PostBy: franpipeman On: Thu Oct 09, 2008 3:41 pm

beautiful job Kevin I was going to use your picture as a example. well done
franpipeman
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: efm 520 stoker fitzgibbons pressure vessel
Hand Fed Coal Stove: harman, russo
Coal Size/Type: rice

Re: Return Piping

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Thu Oct 09, 2008 4:56 pm

kevin12973 wrote:
DSCN0283.JPG


The twin return legs generally are plumbed with TEE's branch side up and the outside port gets a pipe plug. This allows you to periodically clean the mud that settles in the boilers belly by rodding and flushing it out. This is more important with steam boilers as the amount of makeup water is significantly higher resulting in higher sediment loading. If there is a lot of mud accumulated at the bottom keeping water from the steel, it can crystallize the steel's molecular structure from the heat and it eventually crack when stressed.

Not a big deal in a home HW boiler, just want you to know how they are plumbed.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Return Piping

PostBy: kevin12973 On: Sat Oct 11, 2008 10:08 pm

I like the idea of tees on the bottom of the boiler. If I could do it again I would go with a 2" X close nipple and then 2 X 2 X 1 1/4 tee. Put a 2" plug in one side and a reducer then drain. Always learn something on this forum. ;)
kevin12973
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM
Stove/Furnace Model: 1956 SF-520 hot water