Chimney Installation

BIG BEAM · Post by **BIG BEAM** » Sun. Sep. 07, 2008 10:51 am

Dallas wrote:For those of you doing your own chimney installation, get some guidance on the flue liner installation portion of the project.

I built one brick chimney and mudded the flue liners pretty tight. I was burning wood in the stove attached to this chimney. The heat and expansion cracked the mortar and allowed the creosote to leach out through the brick. I eventually installed a stainless steel liner. I believe, the correct method of installing the flue liner tiles, is to use just a dab of mud here and there to keep them solid. Also, I believe, there is an insulation product, which can be used around the flue liners.

I think there is a mud just for the clay.I built a chimney 20 yrs ago with my uncle and it came in a bucket dry.we didn't use mortar.He's dead now so I can't ask but any good mason supply should have it.

DavidL · Post by **DavidL** » Sun. Sep. 07, 2008 5:15 pm

Dallas wrote:For those of you doing your own chimney installation, get some guidance on the flue liner installation portion of the project.

I built one brick chimney and mudded the flue liners pretty tight. I was burning wood in the stove attached to this chimney. The heat and expansion cracked the mortar and allowed the creosote to leach out through the brick. I eventually installed a stainless steel liner. I believe, the correct method of installing the flue liner tiles, is to use just a dab of mud here and there to keep them solid. Also, I believe, there is an insulation product, which can be used around the flue liners.

You need to use Heat Stop Refractory Cement between the clay flue joints.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Sun. Sep. 07, 2008 10:41 pm

The mortar should swell from the joint IIRC. Vermiculite will work as an insulator I would think, it is cheaper than dirt.

Yanche · Post by **Yanche** » Sun. Sep. 07, 2008 11:56 pm

DavidL wrote: You need to use Heat Stop Refractory Cement between the clay flue joints.

I'm not a chimney construction expert but refractory cement mortar is typically used in a ceramic kiln chimney. It needs to be fired to be cured, at temperatures way above anything a coal burning appliance can produce. My clay lined block and brick faced chimney was constructed with type S mortar.

billw · Post by **billw** » Mon. Sep. 08, 2008 9:01 am

I also used type S mortar. It's what the guy at the building supply house recommended. I mortared the joints of the liner and put enough around the edge to hold them in place. The rest of the space between the liner and the block is air space. I figured air was a good insulator. Not sure if this is right but I guess I'll find out in the future.

Berlin · Post by **Berlin** » Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:53 pm

you want some "wiggle" room between the block and the flue tile, because when it's -10 outside and your flue gas temp is running 2-300 even with coal, there needs to be some room to expand w/ out the 200º tile cracking inside of the -10º block.

rman · Post by **rman** » Mon. Sep. 15, 2008 1:57 pm

Hello, Got a new quote this weekend, $3,100 includes the stuccoing and a vermiculite insulation between flu and chimney. this will also include the masonry thimble, This seems better then the last quote. I am waiting for one more quote and hope to have a date set soon for construction. Thanks for all of the advice so far, these forums are a great resource.

greentjdude · Post by **greentjdude** » Tue. Sep. 16, 2008 1:51 pm

3100 sounds much better, I was quoted 2800 with no stucco and I already have a thimble.