Old Alaska Kodiak Stoker II Rebuild

 
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Rick 386
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Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
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Post by Rick 386 » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 10:01 pm

Matt,

I'll check the make and model of the fans tomorrow. I did weld that sheet metal directly to the stove using a mig welder. I really don't think that you would be getting much heat from the back of the stove. Let that little bit from the back and front heat the basement.

This set up is really close to the jacket on the LL Hyfire II. Except I am pushing air from the bottom of the stove upward into the ductwork. The LL heat jacket has the bottom of the jacket open and draws the air from the bottom of the stove in through a fan and then pushes it up through the ductwork.

Greg, you're right. If I had to do it over I would add the filter boxes. Having this setup in the garage attracted lots of dust. I would blow through the fans every once in a while. But bringing this thing home and refurbishing it to put in the home garage, I found out just how much dust had accumulated in the ductwork.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Rick


 
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LsFarm
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Post by LsFarm » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 11:40 pm

You can alway ben up some boxes and mig or screw them over the fans.. install fileters and some ductwork..

That's a nice job..

Greg L.

 
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Rick 386
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Posts: 2508
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Contact:

Post by Rick 386 » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 8:51 am

Greg,

Yeah, I know I could have done that but it was in a garage so I really wasn't too concerned with the dust at the time. Everything gets dusty here. It's just the nature of the business.

Matt, I checked this morning and I installed Dayton 4C015B fans. According to the Grainger catalog, they produce 157 CFM each.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex ... &x=47&y=11

They worked for me. I'm not sure how far you want to push your heat. And I didn't have a cold air return hooked up to it either.

---------------------------------------------------------------

Rick

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 9:08 pm

^ I will get back to my idea in a bit.

But first I have a big problem. I am a newb and thought I would wire in a switch tonight to control the fan on top to turn off when I was filling the hopper.
Here it is
Image

Now, I screwed up my wires and shorted it out. Now NOTHING works!! I think its in the rheostat thing running the unit.
Image
Image

Does anyone have one of these to get rid of? Do you all think that's what "popped" ? I am an idiot. That is the last thing I needed right now.

I fixed my wiring error in the switch so it will not happen again.

 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 9:38 pm

Matt, That's a real bummer.
If you want I can send you my old controller that I took off of my stove when I installed the coal-trol. It has 2 rheostats and pigtails to plug your motors into. It will cost you nothing but shipping. These rheostats have an "off" setting so you won't need your wall switch.

Attachments

stove control.JPG
.JPG | 339.2KB | stove control.JPG

 
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 9:44 pm

^ Wow what can I say!

Would that work with my unit? I see 2 dials, my unit has one dial. What would I have to do different? Is one dial simpler?

Sorry for the questions, I am learning here. I guess replacing what I have would be ideal but as a last resort I could run with yours. I am thankful of your generosity and I am glad to see people still pay it forward, I have paid it forward to many many things myself.

 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 9:50 pm

Matt, One rheostat controls the stoker and combustion fan and the other controls the convection blower. You don't have to use both. Your unit still has the tri-burner setup doesn't it?


 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 10:00 pm

You plug this unit into a wall outlet and you will have 2 separate rheostat controlled outlets. You can use one or both it just depends on what you want to control.

 
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Rick 386
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Posts: 2508
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Contact:

Post by Rick 386 » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 10:12 pm

Matt,

The rheostats only slow down the stoker motor, combustion fan, and the convection fan. If you need to use the stove tonight, just plug all three directly into an outlet. You will not be able to slow down the fans at all but you can adjust the heat output using the cam lobe.

I always ran mine at full blast anyway. :rambo2:

------------------------------------------------

Rick D. not the gambler

 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Mon. Oct. 06, 2008 10:27 pm

Rick 386 wrote:If you need to use the stove tonight, just plug all three directly into an outlet.
Good advice! You can make sure you didn't cook the motors that way.
We need to see some pics of your girlfriend fixing this because you can no longer be trusted with electricity! :lol: :lol:

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Tue. Oct. 07, 2008 8:37 am

Thanks guys. I was told in this thread thats a triburner setup. I don't know what that is exactly.

Here is a little diagram of how the wiring works
Image

I have the russian masonary stove so I have not turned on the coal yet, so no emergency. It did get to 29 last night however.

So it looks like with the extra unit gambler has, that would control the fan on top also. Right now I have no control of that fan. It just blows 100% no mater what the dial is set on. Hmm.

Gambler. I will PM you my address and payment information. I can pay you via paypal or I can send you money. :clap: for good people!!

That has to be what is bad on my unit because nothing is working at all, no power is getting to them and inside my dial unit is all cobbled up.

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Tue. Oct. 07, 2008 2:43 pm

Alaska says I need a 3 amp rheostat. I am working on finding out if gamblers will work

 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Tue. Oct. 07, 2008 5:20 pm

arcticcatmatt wrote:Alaska says I need a 3 amp rheostat. I am working on finding out if gamblers will work
Matt, Mine are rated for 3 amps FLA

 
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dkononczuk
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Harman VF-3000
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Post by dkononczuk » Tue. Oct. 07, 2008 7:16 pm

I just got an old Alaska Kodiak Stoker II also that I need to rebuilt.
Does anyone have any parts/user manuals available?

Dan

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Tue. Oct. 07, 2008 7:54 pm

^ Awesome! Start a thread and get to it. I want to see pictures.

PM me your email address and I will email you the manual that was sent to me from another member. Its not the same stove but shows you basically the same stuff.

Gambler - I sent you a PM. I sincerely thank you. I bought one at the dealer today. I probably should have just waited to find out what the amps were on yours. But its all good. Now we don't have to bother, I am lucky he had one in stock.

Here is the new guy
Image

Here is the old guy
Image

New guy installed (ignore that tape, that was the previous owners solution to screws, I fixed that)
Image

So I got it all hooked up and tested. Works great! The rheostat controls everything. Everything slows down when I turn it down.

So with that out of the way, I decided to get into the top fan. I "think" it could be pushing more air so I want to lube it and make sure its performing ok. Its all rivited into place. So I drilled a few out so I could see the good stuff. What a mess
Image

I took some of that out. I am wondering where do I lube this to make sure its performing great. Anyone have a better picture of this removed from a stove?
I don't want to drill all the rivits and remove it if I do not have to
Image


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