Old Alaska Kodiak Stoker II Rebuild

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Wed. Sep. 17, 2008 8:19 am

I am pissed!

I waited days now and put a temp/humidty meter in the barn. I repainted it last night at 60 degrees and 57% humidity. The can says "must paint between 50-90 degrees and below 85% humidity". So I was within the guidlines.

I sanded the surface first. It still looks all blotchy like before.

I am calling them today. I have $40 in paint in this stove and it looks like crap. I don't know what else I have to do to it.


 
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traderfjp
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Post by traderfjp » Wed. Sep. 17, 2008 9:48 am

You can take pics of the stove and the empty cans to the store and ask for a return. Do your self a favor and order some stove bright online. It's 10.00 a can and worth every penny. It's what most of the stove companies use and covers great.

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Wed. Sep. 17, 2008 10:43 am

^ I called and they informed me that I must have painted it unevenly. I told her that is not the case, I gave it 2-3 coats. She then tells me to fire the stove up and get it hot, everything will turn flat and it will look normal.

sure it will. I am not assembling the stove only to find out that it doesn't fix itself and I need to take it apart again.

I emailed that I want a refund. If I don't hear back today I will call customer service again and get someone else.

My local place has spray stove brite.. 10 bucks a spray can. 2 should be able to recoat the outside of this baby. I will go pick some up tonight and give the rustoleum garbage a good sanding prior to painting.

After tonight - Paint cost is now at 50 dollars.

 
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hotrodzz68
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Post by hotrodzz68 » Wed. Sep. 17, 2008 10:45 am

While doing auto restorations I played with a technique that worked out really well when using spray paint.
First off I stopped using Rust-o-lem, that crap always gave a finish like your getting, something to do with the fish oil in the paint.
Secondly I was working with freshly sand blasted metal which was a big help but doesn't apply in your case unfortunatly.
The trick was when I wanted to paint cast iron or steel parts(non body parts)I would use a plumbers torch and heat up the metal before spraying.When heating the metal( flame contact ,constant movement) you could literaly see the metal perspire the moisture right out of the pores of the metal and dry out (this applied to primer and top coats as well). At this point you could tap touch the metal to check the temp. Then I would begin spraying, if the paint would blow back like spraying into the wind it was still too hot, but if it was just the right temp it would suck paint in and dry almost instantly, and you could reheat ( ~4"-6" flame off contact ) in 10 minutes or so for the second coat. It would cure over night and be as hard as a rock, no blister, no bubbles.

In your case rust-o-lem never really dries for some reason. :doh: If it were me I would try to strip the current coats, but thats a pain. :mad2:
:idea: Or go a head and light the thing, cure it, let it cool, sand it, fire it up again and when it starts to cool repaint it while warm with good quality stove paint.
Paint horizontally from bottom to top 6-8 " away from your work ,dont stop or start spraying, on your work, start off to the side then move across.
Try it on your door frame first, see how it works.
Good luck,
John

 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Wed. Sep. 17, 2008 11:36 am

follow hotrodzz advice.
And use double passes. across the same path before you move up. and give it 30-50% overlap. Make sure the paint looks evenly wet when you apply it. If it looks dry you will get the same results you have. You will need atleast 3 cans, probably 4. I found that I needed to keep the can about 4 inches from the stove but I was painting outside in the breeze.

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Wed. Sep. 17, 2008 12:51 pm

^ Thanks for the replies!

Your right about the fish oil!! It's like I am painting a waxed surface!(but its not, its raw, I sanded it).

I just went down and dropped 22 bucks on stove bright. I am sanding off the exterior of the stove tonight with my sander, whipping it with a dry rag, then recoating with the stove bright.

I will worry about fighting with rust-0-crap to get my money back later. I called again today and they gave me a ration of crap. I am going to take the pictures and the cans back to the store and say I wasn't satisfied and see what happens. They can get money back from rustocrap easier than I can.

Even if I have 50 bucks into painting this thing.. I still have much less into it than a new comparable stove.

Pics to come tonight!

 
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hotrodzz68
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Post by hotrodzz68 » Wed. Sep. 17, 2008 12:56 pm

If your going to repaint with out "toasting" the old stuff, wipe the surface really clean with isoprppyl alchol, acetone, or automotive
reducer or automotive grease/ wax remover or you "will" get fish eye from the rust-o-leum. You know how your going to feel about
that. :mad:

John


 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Wed. Sep. 17, 2008 1:28 pm

^ After I sand it clean can I run my propane torch all over it before whipping it down with alcohol?

To fire up the stove I have to assemble the thing :(

 
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hotrodzz68
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Post by hotrodzz68 » Wed. Sep. 17, 2008 1:45 pm

Sure, just make sure you don't have any large areas that will soften back up again.
Try to burn off all that residual fish oil. Heat, sand, alcohol, Heat ,sand, alcohol until it feels very dry.

John

 
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traderfjp
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Post by traderfjp » Wed. Sep. 17, 2008 4:17 pm

I'm sure you know this but just in case remember that less is more when spray painting. You want very light coats and to move the can quickly not to get runs. You should probably be about 10" away from the stove. Too close and you'll get bands. Good luck. I guess you're leaving the inside of the fire box alone?

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Thu. Sep. 18, 2008 9:49 am

^ I painted the inside with the rustoleam. I don't care what that looks like hah. It will just turn crappy anyways.

Well the stove bright did the trick! I sanded and used my wire wheel on the stove then whipped it down with alcohol last night. I used a torch on some of it to heat it up. The stove bright covered GREAT and looked fine. You can see some swirl marks in spots from my wire wheel but I don't care. It's 100x better than before.

I took pictures but they are home and I am at work. I will post them tonight.

I will round up my rustoleam paint cans and pictures and go back to the store with hopes of at least a partial money return. I need to hunt down my receipts for the paint.

I should get it assembled tonight and get it fired up! I will let it run for 45 mins or so to get the initial burn underway out in the barn.

I have a chimney cleaner coming in also to do all my chimneys.

 
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traderfjp
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Post by traderfjp » Thu. Sep. 18, 2008 9:59 am

The Stove Bright is a little stinky until it cures. It's my favortie high-temp paint. I'm very intersted in how the inside of the firebox holds up with the Rustoleum paint. I painted mine with Por-15 bit I haven't fired it up yet.

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Thu. Sep. 18, 2008 10:05 pm

ha! I got it all together tonight and tried to light it out in the garage. I could NOT get it lit. I tried many things and gave up. I am going to pick up some of those "coal mice" that I see mentioned on here. I will try and find it locally.

 
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traderfjp
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Post by traderfjp » Thu. Sep. 18, 2008 10:52 pm

Too bad. So close.... The coal mice work great.

 
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gambler
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Post by gambler » Thu. Sep. 18, 2008 10:56 pm

Use charcoal !
Break up about 5 briquets and put them in a soup can with air holes in the bottom and a piece of wooden dowel rod screwed to the side near the top (for handle).
Light the charcoal outside in the usual manor and in about 10 minutes place the burning charcoal on the bare grate with some coal lower on the grate to hold the charcoal in place. Add a small shovel full of coal above and onto the charcoal but don't smother it. Keep an eye on it and add more coal as the fire builds. You should have a ripping fire in about 15 min.


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