Old Alaska Kodiak Stoker II Rebuild
- LsFarm
- Member
- Posts: 7383
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
- Location: Michigan
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
- Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Just make sure you burn nothing but super dry wood, Oak, Hickory, Elm, Ash are best.. stay away from pine except to start the fire.. Wood smoke, even from a full-flaming hot fire has unburnt stuff in it, this 'stuff' condenses on cool surfaces,, like the inside of your brick heat-absorber. The smoke will quickly coal and clog the smoke passageways.
Hopefully this unit was designed with multiple cleanout doors or access-ways. I like the design and idea.. but just be sure to burn what will keep it working right .. for hopefully lots of years..
Greg L
How's the Kodiak Stoker II rebuild coming along??
Hopefully this unit was designed with multiple cleanout doors or access-ways. I like the design and idea.. but just be sure to burn what will keep it working right .. for hopefully lots of years..
Greg L
How's the Kodiak Stoker II rebuild coming along??
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- Member
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
^ Yes, only really dry hardwood is allowed in this fireplace. The previous owner told me that. I have a guy coming to clean it in 3 weeks. 200 bucks But its never been cleaned so I am told.
It has a clean out access door also.
I now have the coal stove in the basement. I worked on it last night for 3 hours.. yes 3. I was trying to use old pipe and an old damper and get it hooked up.
It was all rusty, dented, and screwed together, and even cracked in a spot or two. After getting VERY mad, I am going to buy all new stuff tonight.
I will get it done and post pictures and you guys can tell me if I did it right. I will google/search for help on setting up the damper.
I also have to get that wiper figured out and find out why that little fan isn't working. Then after thats all going I will be doing the added fan mod I presume.
I have been filling my patio with wood for the russian and thats about 1/2 done. For the rest I am driving 4 hrs away and hauling back a dump trailer full this weekend and next.
It has a clean out access door also.
I now have the coal stove in the basement. I worked on it last night for 3 hours.. yes 3. I was trying to use old pipe and an old damper and get it hooked up.
It was all rusty, dented, and screwed together, and even cracked in a spot or two. After getting VERY mad, I am going to buy all new stuff tonight.
I will get it done and post pictures and you guys can tell me if I did it right. I will google/search for help on setting up the damper.
I also have to get that wiper figured out and find out why that little fan isn't working. Then after thats all going I will be doing the added fan mod I presume.
I have been filling my patio with wood for the russian and thats about 1/2 done. For the rest I am driving 4 hrs away and hauling back a dump trailer full this weekend and next.
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- Member
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
I just went and got the vent parts. Holy crap thats more than I thought it was going to be.
6" dia 24" long black pipe - 10 bucks (2x)
6" T (for barometric damper) - 18 bucks
6" elbow - 10 bucks (2x)
Over 60 bucks. I got a cast iron damper (thats all they had) but I am going to return it. I am going to try and reuse the cap that I have. If not, I am buying a new one.
I can go with single wall vent because the nearest walls are 8 feet away. Only close objects are the hopper and the chimney.
6" dia 24" long black pipe - 10 bucks (2x)
6" T (for barometric damper) - 18 bucks
6" elbow - 10 bucks (2x)
Over 60 bucks. I got a cast iron damper (thats all they had) but I am going to return it. I am going to try and reuse the cap that I have. If not, I am buying a new one.
I can go with single wall vent because the nearest walls are 8 feet away. Only close objects are the hopper and the chimney.
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- Member
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
On the way home I checked a small hardware store. Their pipe was cheaper than lowes and all the big names! Thats what I like to see! I bought the pipe there and I am returning my pipe to lowes tomorrow. I got 6 bucks coming back to me.
I came home to my mess from last night
I managed to reuse the damper that was given to me with the stove. I put it on that 20 dollar T. Here she is all hooked up
I have to run electric to that area so disregard the cords. I am going to affix something to that chimney so I can get the intake fan mod out of the way very soon.
That mat under it is gross. I will tile it and make it look nice some night when I get bored.
Got to paint that damper and get it set up
So, I started screwing with the fan that's not working
I think the amature is worn and junk in the motor. You can spin the fan as much as you want but turn on the power and it locks right up. I am trying to speck a new assembly now. Should I go to the dealer or Grainger?
See that fan blade? I found the patent on it
http://www.google.com/patents?id=oCQ7AAAAEBAJ&pri ... 52#PPA1,M1
Damn.. grainger has one close for 171 bucks? What am I doing wrong? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1ZHR3
Edit - I made more progress. Seems it was originally designed by a company that was bought out that was bought out. Cross references to a "Nidec" fan. Found one on ebay
45 shipped
**Broken Link(s) Removed**Seems steep? Can anyone assist?
I came home to my mess from last night
I managed to reuse the damper that was given to me with the stove. I put it on that 20 dollar T. Here she is all hooked up
I have to run electric to that area so disregard the cords. I am going to affix something to that chimney so I can get the intake fan mod out of the way very soon.
That mat under it is gross. I will tile it and make it look nice some night when I get bored.
Got to paint that damper and get it set up
So, I started screwing with the fan that's not working
I think the amature is worn and junk in the motor. You can spin the fan as much as you want but turn on the power and it locks right up. I am trying to speck a new assembly now. Should I go to the dealer or Grainger?
See that fan blade? I found the patent on it
http://www.google.com/patents?id=oCQ7AAAAEBAJ&pri ... 52#PPA1,M1
Damn.. grainger has one close for 171 bucks? What am I doing wrong? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1ZHR3
Edit - I made more progress. Seems it was originally designed by a company that was bought out that was bought out. Cross references to a "Nidec" fan. Found one on ebay
45 shipped
**Broken Link(s) Removed**Seems steep? Can anyone assist?
- LsFarm
- Member
- Posts: 7383
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
- Location: Michigan
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
- Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Try checking out Radio Shack for computer cooling fans.. you don't need much, it's just to cool the other motor/mechanism,, just needs to keep the air moving.
Greg L
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Greg L
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- Adamiscold
- Member
- Posts: 1116
- Joined: Fri. Feb. 29, 2008 7:09 am
- Location: Winchendon,Ma
Matt
Make sure you use some screws to secure your stove pipe together.
Make sure you use some screws to secure your stove pipe together.
-
- Member
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
^ I don't know about that. Does everyone do that? The pipe I had had that done to it and everything inside got snagged on the screws, made a hell of a mess. I am going to try it without screws first.
I personally wonder if its even necessary to cool down that unit.
Thank you for that. I just purchased 2 of those $20 bucks shipped for two. That fan is .7" smaller L x W. Not a big deal I don't think. I will make it fit by doing up new holes.Linc wrote:Here is one on ebay that will do the job. At that price,buy a couple. You can always use a spare.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**
I personally wonder if its even necessary to cool down that unit.
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
You need screws in the pipes. The risk of a minor coal gas explosion is small with a stoker stove, but a few screws at each connection is cheap insurance, certainly better then arriving home one day to see the fire dept. hosing down what's left of your house.
Minor Explosion in Coal Stove
Also, I drilled the collar on the Alaska for screws. With the bottom vent it's a long piece of vertical pipe to have hanging there without being secured.
Minor Explosion in Coal Stove
Also, I drilled the collar on the Alaska for screws. With the bottom vent it's a long piece of vertical pipe to have hanging there without being secured.
-
- Member
- Posts: 320
- Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
- Location: Montour Falls NY
^ When I did my dryer vent I used duct tape of course. I love how it seals.
Is there a high heat tape to use on a stove pipe? IMO, screws are not "sealing" it, they are preventing it from turning and just mildly sealing it in those spots.
How about foil tape? http://www.ducttapesales.com/Tape-Foil-p/foil210.htm
If it needs to be sealed.. I want it sealed tight.
Is there a high heat tape to use on a stove pipe? IMO, screws are not "sealing" it, they are preventing it from turning and just mildly sealing it in those spots.
How about foil tape? http://www.ducttapesales.com/Tape-Foil-p/foil210.htm
If it needs to be sealed.. I want it sealed tight.
- hotrodzz68
- Member
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Fri. Aug. 29, 2008 12:18 pm
- Location: Central MA
For the fan, try NorthernTool.com, they have used ones for sale, $5.00 each, I bought a bunch of them to use at my company for projects, all of them worked, shipped same day.
Look under "Mini Box Fans"
John
Look under "Mini Box Fans"
John
- Rick 386
- Member
- Posts: 2508
- Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
- Location: Royersford, Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
- Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
- Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
- Contact:
Matt,
The screws are not for sealing, they are to keep the pipe together in case of a minor coal gas explosion. Sort of like a backfire on an oil heater.
The screws are not for sealing, they are to keep the pipe together in case of a minor coal gas explosion. Sort of like a backfire on an oil heater.
- ashburnham55
- Member
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Sat. Jul. 05, 2008 3:16 pm
- Location: North Central, Massachusetts
- Baseburners & Antiques: Magee Crown 112
- Coal Size/Type: Nut
Their is a 600* flume tape made by 3M but it is kinda hard to find. I had to have my local hardware store order it for me. It cost $10.00 for 15 feet. Since I have a DV, Alaska required 3 screws, high temp silicone and flume tape for each connection.
BTW
That was a fast rebuild. Looks great
BTW
That was a fast rebuild. Looks great