Paint the Inside of My New Stove?

 
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lowfog01
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Post by lowfog01 » Thu. Jul. 09, 2009 7:52 am

Matthaus wrote:IMO it's worth the effort, but then again unless you use proper paint you might as well not bother, the two I use are VHT 2000* silver and Duplicolor 1200* silver. The aluminium flakes in the paint seem to help keep the rust from coming back, although a re-coat after a couple of years is sometimes needed.
Hi, I decided that painting the inside of my stove wasn't worth the effort. It’s a trade off; how is the humidity where you live? Any number of threads on this forum will tell you that rust forms in stoves when humidity is high; control that and there really isn't a problem. I didn't do anything to my stove for 3 years because I didn't know any better and when I finally did an end of the year cleaning the interior rust was almost none existent. I spot treated what I did find with a rust converter and left it. My thought is that the rust converter will work to minimize any existing rust formation over the summer and burn off in the fall. I figured that anything I put in the fire box would burn off anyway so why spend my time sanding and painting. The rust converter dries black so it looks pretty, too. :)

Instead of painting I concentrated on reducing the humidity my stove is exposed to. I changed my gaskets, disconnected it from the chimney for the summer, sealed it with a chimney end cap and put a box of Damp Rid in the fire box. My stove is in an Air Conditioned room so I thought that would eliminate any lingering humidity. I shut down the first of April and I'm surprised to find the Damp Rid is almost half gone. Humidity is getting in somehow; still I am confident that I have done everything I can to mitigate rust formation. Doing something always beats doing nothing. Have great day!

 
jrn8265
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Post by jrn8265 » Thu. Jul. 09, 2009 8:03 am

I painted the inside of my koker with black velvet good to 1200 degrees after one season of burning. Right now she looks real pretty but I'll let you all know how she stands up when I fire her up in October!

A side note, I did the whole baking soda wash on the inside but I noticed that the areas that were "washed" tended to rust a bit and the areas that were just vacuumed and wiped with no wash are fine, no rust color...think next year I will only vacuum her out and wipe down the inside and not do any water/baking soda wash!

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Thu. Jul. 09, 2009 8:34 am

Yeah, I don't bother with any of it. My Harman is 1/4" thick steel, so by the time that gets thin enough to warrant replacement, it will then be light enough for me to remove from the basement & replace with the latest & greatest stove of that time -- that will be decades down the road .... even in my swampy basement.

The only coating that will hold up in there year after year would be either ceramic coating ( basically a dull-chrome looking powder coat ), or some other high-end industrial paint that you'd have to apply in a booth, & bake in a kiln. Nothing available in a can is going to last any length of time inside a coal stove.

Isn't moving the coal enough work? ;)


 
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Uglysquirrel
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Post by Uglysquirrel » Sat. Jul. 18, 2009 7:52 am

Without getting into a lot of tech stuff, it seems that on the Dulpicolor website, the Duplicolor 1200 we have neem discussing is being replaced by the VHT series also discussed here.

The VHT website has MSDS sheets that tell what matereials are in each primer and color, consider reviewing each. You'll likely see that their primers have 1 % by weight silica and 7-8% Titanium Dioxide along with a lot of propellants. Some colors have no Silica or Ti Dioxide.

The website said that their paints are a "system"with the # 118 primer being the base coat with your color as overspray, this #118 has 1% silica and 8% Ti Dioxide with 8% being the most Ti Dioxide % of any of their colors.

All this is starting to suggest that the "ceramic components" may be the Silica and Ti Dioxide and that these materials are mostly in their primers with exception of (non primer) flat gray. I guess it may be reasonable to suggest that if you spray a color with no Silica or no Ti Dioxide you may get poorer long term durability as a Ti Dioxide search on Google suggested it to fight corrosion.

Thats it. hope this adds some to our understanding.

Ugly

 
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009to090
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Post by 009to090 » Sat. Jul. 18, 2009 8:31 am

lowfog01 wrote:Instead of painting I concentrated on reducing the humidity my stove is exposed to. I changed my gaskets, disconnected it from the chimney for the summer, sealed it with a chimney end cap and put a box of Damp Rid in the fire box. I am confident that I have done everything I can to mitigate rust formation.
This has been the procedures I followed for closing the stove down for the summer.

Having said that, I like Smitty's point of view:
I don't bother with any of it. My Harman is 1/4" thick steel, so by the time that gets thin enough to warrant replacement, it will then be light enough for me to remove from the basement & replace with the latest & greatest stove of that time -- that will be decades down the road

 
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Uglysquirrel
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Post by Uglysquirrel » Sat. Jul. 18, 2009 11:16 am

Yes, the Mark series and other stoves are a beefy 1/4" thick steel, I hear ya regarding corrosion, though my stoker stove body is measured at .105", still not a killer though a lot less than .250.

And then ya die.

:>


 
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traderfjp
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Post by traderfjp » Sat. Jul. 18, 2009 11:43 am

There are a few guys who have had luck painting the inside of their stoves. It's best done when the stove is new. I tried it last year but I used POR-15 (made for painting over light rust) which is good up to 700 degrees. It lasted until I cleaned the stove with baking soda and water and then the paint just flaked off. I bought 2 quarts of stove bright paint and my plan was to try it again. I decided it was too much of a hassle and to messy to try to sand off the rust and patches of paint in my upstairs and to work around the coil which was not easy to install. Taking the coil apart is asking for trouble. I ened up closing off all the orifices, put in a bucket of damp rid and then sprayed all surfaces with corrosion x. I just wish I had painted the stove when it was new and I could have taken it outside and didn't have to worry about rust , etc. I know that it will take forever for the interior to rust through but I like things to look nice and I as stupid as that sounds. It's funy that when I was asking questions about the stove to my dealer he never mentioned the dread of emptying the ash pan or the flaking over the interior of the stove. I'm more then glad I bought my stove but it would have been nice to have had full disclosure.

 
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Uglysquirrel
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Post by Uglysquirrel » Sun. Jul. 19, 2009 10:00 am

re: the dread of emptying the ash pan, not toooo bad on a stoker every couple days, but I learned fast last year with a hand fed that having one of these is like having a wanton mistress that needs "love" every 12 hours for 3-4 months each year. It is better than wood though, no question about that and if the price of oil was 5 bucks a gallon, we would'nt be a complainin.

 
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traderfjp
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Post by traderfjp » Sun. Jul. 19, 2009 1:39 pm

DOn't get me wrong I love my stove and the minor problems is nothing compared to all the great heat and money saved.

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