paint the inside of my new stove?

nursepat · By: **nursepat** On: Fri Sep 19, 2008 8:52 am

Hi all-
Brand newbie here with question. I remember on a previous thread seeing someone advocating painting the inside of a new stove(never used) with some type of stove paint D/T rust. They seemed to indicate this was your only chance to do it. Is this true, before I fire up my stove?

Very excited and want to do it right. Thanks!

BTW- Bought my Alaska Kast Konsole and 6 tons bagged in May with tax check. Installed in July. I timed something right for once in my life!

P.S. My apologies- I posted this on the wrong thread apparently; I re-wrote it and posted on Stoker thread. Like I said - Brand newbie, just joined today!

traderfjp · By: **traderfjp** On: Fri Sep 19, 2008 9:03 am

A lot of guys will say it's not needed. It will rust and corrode. Will high temp paint solve the problem? The jury is out since I haven't ever read any reports on anyone who has done it. However, if I had a new stove I would try painting the inside with a high temp 1400 degree paint and see if it holds up. After one season you will get rust and it will be much harder to prep and paint at that time.

Rick 386 · By: **Rick 386** On: Fri Sep 19, 2008 10:07 am

Trader,

I'll keep you posted.

I just installed a new Hyfire II yesterday. I own a body shop where we use a weld thru primer for treating bare metal prior to mig welding and/or STRSW on new panels. Any shop worth their salt treat all repairs to vehicles in this manner. It is used to stop corrosion on newly installed panels and helps to maintain their warranty. I used this product on the inside of the stove prior to firing it for the first time. It is a self etching copper enriched primer made by the SEM company.

This stove replaces an older Alaska Stoker II than never had anything put on the inside. Also it was never washed down after the season. It was just vacummed and scraped at the beginning of each season.

I'll let you know during and after the season. I think I will be able to see any differences easily.

Rick

edit: Trader maybe you want to move this up to her other thread which is now locked. JMT

SMITTY · By: **SMITTY** On: Mon Sep 22, 2008 6:41 pm

I don't think there is a high-temp paint available that will last inside the stove -- it will just flake off.

Devil505 · By: **Devil505** On: Mon Sep 22, 2008 7:09 pm

Coal stoves last for many decades.....No paint required.

Richard S. · By: **Richard S.** On: Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:19 pm

Rick 386 wrote:This stove replaces an older Alaska Stoker II than never had anything put on the inside. Also it was never washed down after the season. It was just vacummed and scraped at the beginning of each season.

How old and was it still usable?

The issue with the paint even if it does hold up is you only need one scratch fora place where it starts corroding and its going to work its way under the the rest of it. The inside of coal stove is such a corrosive environment it won't take long before it all falls off. That's my assessment.

When we were workin on my truck we were working on some plate that was 50 years old. You'd hit spots that still had all the metal, other that were paper thin etc... no consistency. Had to cut a lot off before it became usable.

traderfjp · By: **traderfjp** On: Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:21 pm

Is paint required - no but wouldn't you guys like a nice clean surface that would protect the metal? I don't know if 1400 degree paint could handle the corrosion and heat in a coal stove but it's sure worth a try.

coaledsweat · By: **coaledsweat** On: Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:04 pm

I'm not so sure the high end temperature is what takes the paint off. I believe it is the wide temp swings and constant thermal cycles, the paint and steel will react at different rates and eventually break the paint's bond.
Whatever it is, the paint does not stay on. If there was a coating suitable, I would think someone would offer it. To me it is a waste of time and money as these things will be rusting and corroding long after we are dead and gone.
Keep it clean and dry when not using it and you will be fine, most of the rust/corrosion that is being tossed around here is from when it is NOT being used. I can't see how anything is going to rust at the temps you would find in an anthracite burner's firebox when it is in operation.

traderfjp · By: **traderfjp** On: Tue Sep 23, 2008 12:30 am

True. I really still think the jury is out about whether or not paint will hold up. I've yet to read one testimonial.

Rick 386 · By: **Rick 386** On: Tue Sep 23, 2008 4:15 pm

Richard S. On: Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:19 pm

Rick 386 wrote:
This stove replaces an older Alaska Stoker II than never had anything put on the inside. Also it was never washed down after the season. It was just vacummed and scraped at the beginning of each season.

How old and was it still usable?

Mr. Mayor,

As far as my father and I can remember, this Stoker II is over 20 years old. My father bought it used from a guy who had trouble lighting it !!! Good thing for us they didn't have mice invented yet.

The stove is going home to be installed in our garage/woodshop replacing a propane overhead unit. There are no issues with rust through that I can see. I'm going to do a rebuild like articcatmatt. Since I had it in the end bay of my body shop, I never was really concerned with gaskets and "purtiness" of the stove. With everything else hazardous that we spray and use daily, CO was the least of my concerns. However, I will do the responsible thing and get this baby back up to snuff. Transporting it home jarred a lot of fly ash and flaking metal from the inside. I'll just vacuum it out, change some gaskets, and refire it.

Who knows, I may even do a Matthaus conversion and buy a coaltrol. I've got to wait for the fingers to heal another 2 weeks before getting serious.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Rick

arcticcatmatt · By: **arcticcatmatt** On: Wed Sep 24, 2008 4:12 pm

I looked into mine last night. I scraped the inside of it and sanded it some. I used a full can of rustoleaum 1200. No go. Its flaking in a few places.
Oh well.. It was worth a shot.

Good luck with the rebuilt. Since you have the same stove as me and are going thru the same process I eagerly wait pictures!

I hope you learned some from mine and the stuff I am going thru now. Wasn't exactly rocket science redoing it but I didn't think I would have over 200 bucks redoing it and getting it installed

traderfjp · By: **traderfjp** On: Wed Sep 24, 2008 7:48 pm

Did u start with bare metal or did you paint over sanded rust? Just curious?

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Thu Sep 25, 2008 12:00 am

IMO it's worth the effort, but then again unless you use proper paint you might as well not bother, the two I use are VHT 2000* silver and Duplicolor 1200* silver. The aluminium flakes in the paint seem to help keep the rust from coming back, although a re-coat after a couple of years is sometimes needed.

Pic with a year of burning on the stove, 1200* duplicolor ceramic, I sold the stove after using for three years and it was still painted silver inside. Never had to coat with anti corrosion ,only vacuumed the fly ash off the surfaces.

When I bought this stove it was new but had been sitting for 8 years in a garage with no corrosion protection, the paint was applied over rusty metal after a thorough wire brushing with the angle grinder.

In the final analysis paint or no paint you will need to spend some time each year cleaning and protecting your investment.

traderfjp · By: **traderfjp** On: Thu Sep 25, 2008 6:53 am

Thanks for the update. Very cool.

eelhc · By: **eelhc** On: Wed Jul 08, 2009 10:42 pm

Matthaus wrote:IMO it's worth the effort, but then again unless you use proper paint you might as well not bother, the two I use are VHT 2000* silver and Duplicolor 1200* silver. The aluminium flakes in the paint seem to help keep the rust from coming back, although a re-coat after a couple of years is sometimes needed.

Matthaus

Both of these paints require curing (VHT instructions below)... How do you handle this?

Curing

Off the Vehicle:
Bake at 250F for 30 minutes, then let cool for 30 minutes. Bake at 400F for 30 minutes, then let cool for 30 minutes. Bake at 600F for 30 minutes, then let cool for 30 minutes. Caution: Do not exceed the heat tolerance of least heat tolerant part. Finish is not chemical resistant until cured.

On the Vehicle:
Run at idle for 10 minutes, then cool for 20 minutes. Run at idle for 20 minutes, then cool for 20 minutes. Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes.
Finish is not chemical resistant until cured.

paint the inside of my new stove?

paint the inside of my new stove?

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