Electric Code

charlie wrote:How do I remedy that? I'm assuming I can't just dangle the conduit from the ceiling and hook the it up to the motor????

One way is to use EMT securely fastened to the ceiling. Then a 90 deg bend down and long enough to get near the motor. At this point make a transition to BX metal sheathing with an EMT to BX adapter. You will need to go to an electrical supply house to find it. Wire with THHN wires.

H*ll the alaska channing III my friend just bought is wired with extention cords.
DON

Yanche has it correct. That connector your looking to get is a 1/2 EMT to 3/8 Flex connector.
Just as a note, not that any of the previous methods wouldn't work, because they will,(barring the PVC) it's just a matter of code. And most of the codes pertaining to wiring of boilers and such are from the NFPA and not so much the NEC.
My Alaska stove is mostly wired with SO cord (black flexible extension cord) and plastic connectors. Um heat, duh? They can get away with it because they can do their own wiring under their own UL listing. We could not do that or modify it unless given written permission from the manufacturer. Written earlier in another post about a Hitzer 503, the owner wanted to move his blower cord from the side to the rear because he originally had a gas insert with an outlet in the fireplace insert area. Hitzer said, sure you can, just make a hole in the rear of the stove to re-route the cord. Let me tell you from experience, unless there was a hole in that area already sized and meant for that transfer, you must have WRITTEN permission from the manufacturer to alter that wiring and stove or YOU nullified the UL listing. If there was a fire pertaining to that change, YOU would be liable.
I don't mean to be negative but I am a Master Electrician in several states, and a lot of my retraining that is required pertains not only to code changes but the law. As an Electrician (and don't use this against me) we are liable for life! We have no statute of limitations. This is why I take these questions very seriously.
Again, I don't mean to be a mock Lawyer, but it's worth thinking about.
As far as that blue coded wire, it falls under all the cable color changes. In Romex it is white, yellow, orange-14, 12, 10 gauge respectively. The blue with a black marking is 14 gauge 2 conductor. If it had red, 3 conductor. Anyway you look at it, it is a "factory made cable assembly" and is not legal on a burner/boiler.

Sorry but hope it helps with the Inspectors! That would be the inspector.

As far as that blue coded wire, it falls under all the cable color changes. In Romex it is white, yellow, orange-14, 12, 10 gauge respectively. The blue with a black marking is 14 gauge 2 conductor. If it had red, 3 conductor. Anyway you look at it, it is a "factory made cable assembly" and is not legal on a burner/boiler.

Scott

My blue wire only goes to the temperature controller so it's legal since it doesn't go from the temperature controller to the burner?

ScottD wrote:Yanche has it correct.

Thanks, Scott. That made my day. Nice when your advise is seconded by someone with credentials plus experience.

Adam,
If that blue cable touches any part of the boiler after the fire-o-matic (that thing on the ceiling) it is not legal. I don't know what your install looks like but that's the rules.

I think what you need is a nice antique stove that doesn't use any power. That would solve your problem. You wouldn't know where to get one would you?

ScottD said:

Written earlier in another post about a Hitzer 503, the owner wanted to move his blower cord from the side to the rear because he originally had a gas insert with an outlet in the fireplace insert area. Hitzer said, sure you can, just make a hole in the rear of the stove to re-route the cord. Let me tell you from experience, unless there was a hole in that area already sized and meant for that transfer, you must have WRITTEN permission from the manufacturer to alter that wiring and stove or YOU nullified the UL listing.

I since asked the manufacturer to re-route the wire at the plant to my specs all within their limitations and subject to the necessary codes. I'm always concerned about safety.

Bear Creek Burnout,
That was actually the best way to do it! Now they are responsible for any problems that arise later. Not that you will have any.

Scott

Scott...
Actually this will be a very clean install for me.....no exposed unsightly wire to trip over. Since I already have elec service in the FP which serviced the propane Heatilator I want to take advantage of that. It comes up from the basement through the clean out. Now I just have to have an electrician confirm the use of heat resistant wire & junction box....any suggestions?

ScottD wrote:
I think what you need is a nice antique stove that doesn't use any power. That would solve your problem. You wouldn't know where to get one would you?

You're a coal teaser! That's what you are sir!

I'll grab a picture of it later on and post it.

Bear Creek Burnout,
The only thing I can't tell you is how hot the fireplace cavity will get behind your stove once it is installed with the insulated shroud around it and is running full bore.
What I can tell you is all newer THHN style wiring and related parts (box, outlet, cover) are rated at 90deg C. If it is older it is 75deg C. You will know if it is THHN because that wire is shiny and very plastic like. If it is older it is dull and rubbery.
The temp behind the stove will judge if you are fine or not.
As a note, they are shipping the stove with a black flexible cord that is rated at 75deg C so you should be fine either way.
Also, I believe your original installation had a built in outlet with no exposed wire.

Hope it helps

Scott

I pulled my stoker/fan motor and took it to town to have it cleaned and checked. It was supposed to be done in a couple of days. That's been almost three weeks ago. Turns out it's on its last legs, and the electric shop was trying to find price and availability on a new one. He said it was hard to find one that will run a pulley off both sides. I scooped up the old one and left. Did some checking, found a new one - $265 (nothing compared to the cost of my rebuilt transmission!) Went to a different electric shop to ask about connections and the TC-1. They had never heard of the TC-1. What exactly does a TC-1 do? I also asked about the connectors. He asked me why I didn't run what he called "CX" which is the flex conduit with wiring already in it. I told him I'd have to check with my consultants. So? He said as long as there weren't going to be kids hanging from it, it would be sufficient and would come up to code.

Hope it helps

Scott

Scott...I owe you man....thanks for all the help....at least now I might be able to have an intelligent conversation with my electrician.
If the Mfgr. has no issue with their wire in the firebox I should be OK as you said.
Thanks again.

Charlie,

Parts are called different things depending where you live. I could go into a supply house and I could call one item by four different names and they would know what I wanted each time. A TC-1 from what I'm seeing on the pics here is what we call a "Fire-O-Matic". You can get it in a 4"square or 4" round style.

As far as your wiring, I've never heard of "CX". Again it could be what we call "Flex" here. Only it shouldn't have wires in it. Cable with wires in it is now referred to as "AC" or "MC" cable. "BX" is now defunct. (all the letters )

One more thing just to put a snag in it, you cant run flex on a boiler any longer than 6'. You must first run a conduit and then switch over to flex if it is longer than 6'.

Oh boy this is fun. Like I said previously, all these wires will carry current to your burner, it's just a matter of who says it's OK or not.

Scott

The stuff he showed me had wire in it and he wrote down CX. Let's assume that it's Ac or MC. Is either of these fire-rated? Fact is, no one will see it. I'm just interested in having it safe and efficient. I also hope to add the marine battery/inverter backup system at some point as well, if that makes any difference.