soon I will be installing my wood/coal boiler in series with my current oil boiler. the boilers birthdate keeps getting moved back, so I am trying to do all my homework ahead of time.
1st picture - from what I understand, the red item is what keeps my system happily charged to about 12 lbs. i'm pretty sure the object next to that is a valve.(joke) whats the object dressed in orange? to me it looks like the bell I had on my bike when I was 8. (that was one cool bike)
2nd picture - this is where I am thinking of bringing the hot water from my wood boiler into my oil boiler. can I remove the boiler drain and bushing, put a 90 in it, then another "t" for the boiler drain? there will be a valve above all this, to block the water from flowing up the return of the oil boiler.
A Few Pics. Name This Part.
- WNY
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Orange bell thing looks like a pressure regulator? What is the supply line that it is in? Fill line? If so, it keeps the pressure at 10-15 pounds instead of your water pressure of like 100psi.
- coalkirk
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The red item is a flow check valve. It keeps hot water from flowing by gravity when the pump is off. The orange item is a pressure reducing valve. It knocks down the house pressure to about 10 psi for the boiler. Have to see a better picture of the existing boilers piping before rendering an opinion on hooking up a wood boiler. My first recomendtaion would be "DON'T HOOK UP A WOOD BOILER!" I used one for many years. What a pain in the butt. Sell it and buy a coal boiler.ssupercoolss wrote:soon I will be installing my wood/coal boiler in series with my current oil boiler. the boilers birthdate keeps getting moved back, so I am trying to do all my homework ahead of time.
1st picture - from what I understand, the red item is what keeps my system happily charged to about 12 lbs. i'm pretty sure the object next to that is a valve.(joke) whats the object dressed in orange? to me it looks like the bell I had on my bike when I was 8. (that was one cool bike)
2nd picture - this is where I am thinking of bringing the hot water from my wood boiler into my oil boiler. can I remove the boiler drain and bushing, put a 90 in it, then another "t" for the boiler drain? there will be a valve above all this, to block the water from flowing up the return of the oil boiler.
- coaledsweat
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The large red thing on the left is a Bell & Gossett lift check which closes when the pump is off and can be manually opened. The orange thing over the valve is the feed pressure regulating valve. Yes, you can plumb to where the drain is, I would repipe it with a TEE first to align everything and add a TEE to keep the drain valve too.
- CoalHeat
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Exactly. Rotate the knob on top for gravity flow during a circulator pump failure. It probably won't move, they get stuck if not moved ever so often.
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thanks for all the help guys....its huge to get help like this. coaledsweat, can you give me a little bit more detail on how you would plumb it? i'm not quite sure I understand what you are saying in your post. and for the record it is a wood/coal boiler. I am very interested in burning coal, but wood for me is free.
- coaledsweat
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I went back to the second pic, it looks like you can just pull the drain valve and screw a nipple and TEE in there and replace the drain valve into the branch of the TEE. Don't use a close nipple, it should have a space with no thread. I just want to make sure you don't assemble it and not have a drain valve.
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i think I gotcha - I really don't need a 90 after removing that bushing....just a nipple and a tee will have the same outcome. cool. "free" is really good for me right now. right now with the economy, it looks as though I will be unemployed sooner than expected this year.