5" up to 6" flu pipe

yutyoy · By: **yutyoy** On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 2:38 pm

my boiler has a 5" pipe coming out the top. is it ok to neck it up to 6"? i have enough 6" pipe to get the job done and a good baro on 6". didnt want to have to buy all new stuff, but wanted to make sure there is no problems with this? also... is it ok to have the first peice be a 90 degree elbow? basically my plan was to have a 5" elbow from the furnace and neck it up to 6" and run straight back to the chimney. its only about 3' from the furnace to the chimney.

coaledsweat · By: **coaledsweat** On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 2:55 pm

It should not be a problem.

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:49 pm

The manual calls out a 6" baro of the 130 so you are in good shape for that. For the reason described below I would use 5" up to the baro. This is accomplished by using a 6" cap on the baro inlet and cutting it out to fit the 5" pipe, the 5" pipe then slides through the cap and extends into the baro T by 3.5" from the edge of cap. Also the distance from the center line of the baro to the flue tile should be 9".

With that short of a pipe the pressure from the fan will spike on start up causing fly ash and coal dust to puff out of the baro, the manual has a diagram that shows the pipe location to preclude this (as I described above). Make sure you follow these instructions not only for connection to the Baro (pipe extension) but the location with respect to the thimble in the chimney (9" to the centerline of the baro from the edge of the flue tile).

The above advise is based on my experience helping folks get the AA 130s/260s I sell them set up to run right.

yutyoy · By: **yutyoy** On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 3:58 pm

thanks Matthaus. i just looked in the back of the manual. forgot that was even in there. do i have to use any kind of sealant where the 5" goes into the 6" cut out cap? there would surely be some small gaps around the pipe

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 4:05 pm

Run a bead of black RTV around the seam and it will look real professional like.

Yanche · By: **Yanche** On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 7:34 pm

I'm currently installing a new stove pipe on my AHS 130. I'm using the suggested A-A method of using a 6 inch baro and 5 inch stovepipe. The first photo shows how I took a 6 inch end cap and cut a 5 inch hole in it. The second photo shows a short section of 5 inch pipe inserted in to the 6 inch pipe section where the baro will mount. The third photo shows the installed assembly at the chimney thimble. You should use 5 inch stove pipe from the boiler to this baro adapter assembly. It will keep the exhaust gas velocity higher and carry the ash along better than 6 inch. Ideally the ash will travel all the way to the chimney stack and then fall out to the chimney clean out. My installation has up sloped 5 inch stove pipe from the boiler breach to the thimble. Keeps the velocity up and no horizontal runs for the ash to collect on.

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Tue Sep 30, 2008 9:02 pm

Nice tidy lookin job there John, why don't you come and install mine?

yutyoy · By: **yutyoy** On: Wed Oct 01, 2008 6:43 am

and while your at it, you could come do mine too.

beemerboy · By: **beemerboy** On: Wed Oct 01, 2008 3:47 pm

You could probably find one already made up at a hardware store.

If not, try http://www.hardwarestore.com for about $15.00

Freddy · By: **Freddy** On: Wed Oct 01, 2008 5:54 pm

Good looking job Yanche. How does it screw together? The hole (the very smooth cut hole *smile*) has no flange to screw through.

Yanche · By: **Yanche** On: Wed Oct 01, 2008 8:09 pm

The 5 inch pipe is centered in the 6 inch pipe and held in place by three 1/2 inch copper tube spaces. A 3/4 inch sheet metal screw goes through the center of the spacer and into the 5 inch pipe. I tried to upload a photo but I got an error message saying I've reached my attachment posting limit.

I doubt you could buy something like is a any hardware store.

beemerboy · By: **beemerboy** On: Wed Oct 01, 2008 8:53 pm

http://heating-and-cooling.hardwarestor ... 18818.aspx

: 8419210.jpg (3.91 KiB) Viewed 627 times; Select:BBcode:; [nepafile=6728]8419210.jpg[/nepafile]

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Wed Oct 01, 2008 8:59 pm

beemerboy, As Yanche said that part will not work. The pipe has to slide through the reducer and protrude into the T by 4.5".

And yeah Yanche, I had to delete some pics the last time I posted new ones. looks like our fearless leader is running out of room on the server.

Yanche · By: **Yanche** On: Wed Oct 01, 2008 9:18 pm

I deleted a few photos. Here's the picture I was trying to upload. Note the 1/2 spacer. There are three of them, 120 degrees apart.

Freddy · By: **Freddy** On: Wed Oct 01, 2008 10:43 pm

Ahhhh, thank you. Ought to work just fine.

5" up to 6" flu pipe

5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe

Re: 5" up to 6" flu pipe