Baro Damper or Not
installing a stove, the person I bought it from didnt use a baro damper. I bought one at the stove store and the man said I realy didnt need one. I don't mind installing it , but what are the chances of carbon monoxide coming thru it? I do have detectors installed...worrys me..
- coaledsweat
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 13763
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
You really do need one if you want to keep all the heat you make, without it you are throwing fuel away.cf1 wrote:installing a stove, the person I bought it from didnt use a baro damper. I bought one at the stove store and the man said I realy didnt need one.
If you have a proper draft, you should not have a CO problem with or without a baro.
How tall is your chimney?
- WNY
- Member
- Posts: 6307
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 14, 2005 8:40 am
- Location: Cuba, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Contact:
You can run without it, BUT you will loose alot of heat up the chimney that you could use in your house. The colder it gets outside, the more draft your will have up the chimney, with the baro, that will regulate what gets sucked out of the stove.
Normally if everything is working correctly, the baro and stove will be under vacuum and no CO should leak out. unless you have a malfunction of your chimney (clogged) or something, that would be the only way that CO would leak out.
Normally if everything is working correctly, the baro and stove will be under vacuum and no CO should leak out. unless you have a malfunction of your chimney (clogged) or something, that would be the only way that CO would leak out.
- rockwood
- Member
- Posts: 1381
- Joined: Sun. Sep. 21, 2008 7:37 pm
- Location: Utah
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Stokermatic
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Rockwood Stoveworks Circulator
- Baseburners & Antiques: Malleable/Monarch Range
- Coal Size/Type: Lump and stoker + Blaschak-stove size
Is there a place where a baro damper can be installed?
If you're worried about CO you should check the draft of your chimney with a manometer but based on your description your chimney should be ok.
A baro damper will not only save heat but will prevent over firing as well.
If you're worried about CO you should check the draft of your chimney with a manometer but based on your description your chimney should be ok.
A baro damper will not only save heat but will prevent over firing as well.
Like I said it worrys me, I couldnt sleep at night with it. Im going to put a hand damper in it, in case I want to throttle it down.. as for the draft it is very good I just removed a wood burner from it.. This stove will be sealed tite clear up to the chimney..thanks guys
- WNY
- Member
- Posts: 6307
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 14, 2005 8:40 am
- Location: Cuba, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Contact:
There is a good thread on here about HAND DAMPERs and WHY you should/NOT use them.
Manual Pipe Dampers .. How, Why, When
Manual Pipe Dampers .. How, Why, When
- ray in ma
- Member
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Wed. Jul. 23, 2008 9:21 pm
- Location: Oakham, MA (North of Worcester don't blink)
WNY Thanks for the link to the post on Manual dampers. (got a bit of a jostling match going on over there)
If I understand the physics of the barometric damper correct, its basically an over draft protection device.
In other words, it's like a cruise control for the coal stove, if the chimney isn't pulling hard, it closes down so more heat will cause more draft (like going up a hill) but if the chimney starts pulling hard due to major temperature differences or wind conditions it cracks open a little to a lot (just like going down hill) so instead of the increased demand for air in the chimney coming from under the coal bed, it comes from a by-pass valve called the baro?
No how do I set mine without kicking out another $200 for a manometer?
Ray
If I understand the physics of the barometric damper correct, its basically an over draft protection device.
In other words, it's like a cruise control for the coal stove, if the chimney isn't pulling hard, it closes down so more heat will cause more draft (like going up a hill) but if the chimney starts pulling hard due to major temperature differences or wind conditions it cracks open a little to a lot (just like going down hill) so instead of the increased demand for air in the chimney coming from under the coal bed, it comes from a by-pass valve called the baro?
No how do I set mine without kicking out another $200 for a manometer?
Ray
- coal berner
- Member
- Posts: 3600
- Joined: Tue. Jan. 09, 2007 12:44 am
- Location: Pottsville PA. Schuylkill County PA. The Hart Of Anthracite Coal Country.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Ray a dwyer 25 mark II is the manometer you want and they are not 200 more like 25 to 35 on ebay
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/PDF_files/mark2_iom.pdf
http://fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php
http://www.dwyer-inst.com/PDF_files/mark2_iom.pdf
http://fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php
- ray in ma
- Member
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Wed. Jul. 23, 2008 9:21 pm
- Location: Oakham, MA (North of Worcester don't blink)
Coal Berner Thanks
I've been following a couple of other threads here and for the price its probably a good idea until I get more practice with the stove (and then I'll have one on hand anyway) I googled that particular model and even the on-line suppliers are about $32 + shipping
I'm going to call my local plumbing supply tomorrow (got 3 or 4 good ones in the city I work in) to see if their prices are close and I'll pick one up or order.
After looking at your link on the baro's I'm wondering if I under bought on this item. I went to the local hardware store and the flap has a counterweight on the inside and an adjusting nut on the outside, no scale (but if I use a manometer why would I need one?) My dad has one on a woods stove that looks like the one in the pictures I guess they all work pretty much the same but am I missing somethisn?
I've been following a couple of other threads here and for the price its probably a good idea until I get more practice with the stove (and then I'll have one on hand anyway) I googled that particular model and even the on-line suppliers are about $32 + shipping
I'm going to call my local plumbing supply tomorrow (got 3 or 4 good ones in the city I work in) to see if their prices are close and I'll pick one up or order.
After looking at your link on the baro's I'm wondering if I under bought on this item. I went to the local hardware store and the flap has a counterweight on the inside and an adjusting nut on the outside, no scale (but if I use a manometer why would I need one?) My dad has one on a woods stove that looks like the one in the pictures I guess they all work pretty much the same but am I missing somethisn?
Ray, the scale in the baro's is more of a reference anyway. They should be set correctly using your manometer when you purchase it. I just hooked my stove to a chimney and was also a little concerned. Once it's set you shouldn't have to touch it. It just sits there and flaps occasionaly. As long as you have good working CO detectors you are fine.
Jeff
Jeff
- Rick 386
- Member
- Posts: 2508
- Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
- Location: Royersford, Pa
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
- Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
- Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
- Contact:
Ray,
You either want the "RC" Type or the type "M" Field control Baro damper.
-------------------------------------------
Rick
You either want the "RC" Type or the type "M" Field control Baro damper.
-------------------------------------------
Rick
-
- New Member
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Wed. Oct. 29, 2008 3:14 pm
The dealer that installed my stove said I didn't really "need" one. I am just wondring when you say "alot" of heat what do you mean? Let's say I'm trying to get the max out of my stove, 85000 BTUs, how much of that could I potentially lose without the baro??WNY wrote:You can run without it, BUT you will loose alot of heat up the chimney that you could use in your house. The colder it gets outside, the more draft your will have up the chimney, with the baro, that will regulate what gets sucked out of the stove.
Normally if everything is working correctly, the baro and stove will be under vacuum and no CO should leak out. unless you have a malfunction of your chimney (clogged) or something, that would be the only way that CO would leak out.
- WNY
- Member
- Posts: 6307
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 14, 2005 8:40 am
- Location: Cuba, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Contact:
There can be at least 100+ degree difference with/without the baro. If your stove is cranking, with more heat will create more draft and therefore, suck more heat from the stove instead of keeping it in the stove. Exact numbers, I can't tell you. It depends on your chimney also, if you have a very tall one that is internal, then it may create way more draft than an external metal one.
If you hook a manometer (Draft Gauge) up and check it when it's cranking without a baro and you are within the .02-.04 (approx) range, you are good to go, but it go up to .05-1.0, you are loosing a lot heat and creating a good draft up your chimney. The Baro Damper will regulate that back down from the stove.
If you hook a manometer (Draft Gauge) up and check it when it's cranking without a baro and you are within the .02-.04 (approx) range, you are good to go, but it go up to .05-1.0, you are loosing a lot heat and creating a good draft up your chimney. The Baro Damper will regulate that back down from the stove.