Aquastat Recommendation
I have a LL Pioneer - love the thing. Want to do DHW. I did the research, have a plan, but need some recommendations. I am doing a recirculating pump between stove on 1st floor and HW tank in basement.
1. Aquastat - which one (make/model)? I see hundreds out there. My plumbing supply sold me a strap-on Honeywell L6006c 1018, but I don't want to be strapping this thing on next to the stove (ugly and heat issue?) Is there a better option for the Living Room?
2. Is Type M 3/4 pipe OK or should I use Type L? 3/4L is now $2/ft. I have plenty of 3/4M laying around from an abandoned zone in the house.
3. I have a bronze TACO recirculating pump, new, model 006BT4. Will this do the trick?
Thanks for the help.
1. Aquastat - which one (make/model)? I see hundreds out there. My plumbing supply sold me a strap-on Honeywell L6006c 1018, but I don't want to be strapping this thing on next to the stove (ugly and heat issue?) Is there a better option for the Living Room?
2. Is Type M 3/4 pipe OK or should I use Type L? 3/4L is now $2/ft. I have plenty of 3/4M laying around from an abandoned zone in the house.
3. I have a bronze TACO recirculating pump, new, model 006BT4. Will this do the trick?
Thanks for the help.
Are you talking about a holding tank or a water heater? If it's just a tank you could put a 4006A on it. That aquastat breaks (shuts off the pump) on temp rise. I'm using one to keep the water in my oil unit up to temp.
The thin walled tubing is meant for a heating system. The water pressure never gets over 30psi. I'm not a plumber but I wouldn't use the thin walled stuff for a water line. It might rupture.
I believe the bronze pump is meant for drinking water so it should be fine.
The thin walled tubing is meant for a heating system. The water pressure never gets over 30psi. I'm not a plumber but I wouldn't use the thin walled stuff for a water line. It might rupture.
I believe the bronze pump is meant for drinking water so it should be fine.
Thanks. I suppose you would call my setup an indirect DHW heater - there's a heater coil in the bottle. Water is heated through a zone valve off the existing oil-fired boiler. I see from other posting here that a 4006 requires a well and the 6006 is a strap-on.
I am attaching an existing plumbing plan with the proposed HW loop through the coal stove. Does your 4006 recommendation still work in this scenario? (the diagram is simplified - I have removed the valves, pressure valves, etc.)
For those that are curious I cannot go with a tempering tank - I am out of utility closet real-estate in a finished basement.
Thanks.
I am attaching an existing plumbing plan with the proposed HW loop through the coal stove. Does your 4006 recommendation still work in this scenario? (the diagram is simplified - I have removed the valves, pressure valves, etc.)
For those that are curious I cannot go with a tempering tank - I am out of utility closet real-estate in a finished basement.
Thanks.
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- Freddy
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- Location: Orrington, Maine
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
- Coal Size/Type: Pea size, Superior, deep mined
M is fine. L is for underground.
Bronze pump for domestic. Non bronze for heat zones.
The idea of the aquastat is to turn on the pump when the boiler mate tank needs heating? Can't you use the switch that is in the boilermate? Right now something turns on the pump to get heat from the oil boiler. Use that same something. Or... are you somehow hoping to have the oil still heat it if the coal is cool? I don't know how you'd do that.
Bronze pump for domestic. Non bronze for heat zones.
The idea of the aquastat is to turn on the pump when the boiler mate tank needs heating? Can't you use the switch that is in the boilermate? Right now something turns on the pump to get heat from the oil boiler. Use that same something. Or... are you somehow hoping to have the oil still heat it if the coal is cool? I don't know how you'd do that.
- Razzler
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- Posts: 434
- Joined: Wed. Dec. 19, 2007 7:56 pm
- Location: Northampton Pa.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
- Coal Size/Type: rice
njbill, your going to need to put the aquastat close to the Pioneer. If your indirect tank doesn't call for heat and you have the LL burning it WILL BOIL THE WATER and make steam that won't be to good! You can use a 6006A and set it up the way I did. I have it set to open on temp drop below 140*. When you are just idling the stove it will stop the pump and the water in the coil will heat up. When you have the stove turned up it will just keep the pump running 24/7
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Razzler, Thanks!
You said that a temp drop below 140* "opens it". I'm assuming you mean that the electrical circuit is broken and the recirculating pump kicks OFF. Hotter and the circuit is closed and the pump runs. Is it possible to heat the boilermate to an unsafe (i.e., scalding condition)? It's a 41gallon tank, and I'll be using the Hilkoil 21" M coil.
In the picture your provided, I assume you have a capped pipe that the 6006A is strapped to? How does the pipe get hot enough to close the circuit? Seems like a dead-end that would trap air and prevent heated water from entering (?)
Thanks.
Bill
You said that a temp drop below 140* "opens it". I'm assuming you mean that the electrical circuit is broken and the recirculating pump kicks OFF. Hotter and the circuit is closed and the pump runs. Is it possible to heat the boilermate to an unsafe (i.e., scalding condition)? It's a 41gallon tank, and I'll be using the Hilkoil 21" M coil.
In the picture your provided, I assume you have a capped pipe that the 6006A is strapped to? How does the pipe get hot enough to close the circuit? Seems like a dead-end that would trap air and prevent heated water from entering (?)
Thanks.
Bill
- Razzler
- Member
- Posts: 434
- Joined: Wed. Dec. 19, 2007 7:56 pm
- Location: Northampton Pa.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
- Coal Size/Type: rice
njbill wrote:temp drop below 140* "opens it". I'm assuming you mean that the electrical circuit is broken and the recirculating pump kicks OFF.
Yes, thats the way it works.
I have no experience with a boilermate but I don't think you could heat 41 gallons to the boiling point with that coil just make sure you have a PRV valve in the line also.njbill wrote:Is it possible to heat the boilermate to an unsafe (i.e., scalding condition)?
No, The L6006A is mounted on a well. Look at page 4 in the PDF file it shows what the well looks like. I have it so the tip of the well is just hitting the water flow.njbill wrote:you have a capped pipe that the 6006A is strapped to? How does the pipe get hot enough to close the circuit?
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Well, almost perfect.
I'm assuming that I need a switching relay in between the recirculating pump and the aquastat. I've attached a modified diagram and the switching relay I think I need. If anyone can confirm I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
Bill
I'm assuming that I need a switching relay in between the recirculating pump and the aquastat. I've attached a modified diagram and the switching relay I think I need. If anyone can confirm I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
Bill