I have a Selkirk fab chimney and bought an adjustable roof bracing kit for it. I am disapointed with the design and it looks anemic. Does anybody know or suggest how far the legs should be placed? The guy that installed mine put them apart by only 24 inches or so. We get high winds and with 10 ft above the roof line doesn't look like it will do. I plan to install another 2 roof braces but believe I need a wider leg stance,any thoughts appreciated. Thanks
Jack
Adjustable Roof Bracing Kit.
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Jack Magnum
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- Joined: Mon. May. 05, 2008 10:34 am
- Location: Cossayuna lake in N.Y.
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Freddy
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- Location: Orrington, Maine
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
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Your gut speaks the truth! But, you are right on the line. Factory says:
used at a midpoint on the chimney. (above the roof)
Over 10' use one RBK4 from
the roof and one RBK every
5' thereafter.
used at a midpoint on the chimney. (above the roof)
Over 10' use one RBK4 from
the roof and one RBK every
5' thereafter.
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Jack Magnum
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- Joined: Mon. May. 05, 2008 10:34 am
- Location: Cossayuna lake in N.Y.
Fred,
Ideas about leg spread ?
Ideas about leg spread ?
Jack, Are you using the locking bands on your chimney pipes? If not I would highly recommend you do. My instruction manual for the selkirk pipe says " The two telescopic legs should form an angle of about 60 degrees. The bracket should be screwed to the trusses and not just the sheathing. keep bottom ends equal distance from the chimney and if possible, at the same elevation, on the high side of the sloped roof" If your legs are only 2 feet apart you must have 2ft centers so I would have them atleast 4ft apart. And if you have a through the roof install your chimney would be between 2 trusses and if you went 1 truss farther on each side the legs would be 6ft apart. Jack, is your chimney install up through the roof or does it go up the outside of your house? If it goes up through the roof I would recommend putting 3 sheet metal screws through your ceilng support and through the outer wall of your first piece of chimney pipe and into your stove pipe adaptor. Even with it locked into place I could give my stove pipe adaptor a yank and pull it off. It would not be good if this should happen while the stove is running.
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Jack Magnum
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- Posts: 188
- Joined: Mon. May. 05, 2008 10:34 am
- Location: Cossayuna lake in N.Y.
Rick,
My selkirk system is a thru the wall kit and I didn't have enough room to go thru the eaves so had a angle Iron pair of 1 1/2'' brackets made to support the tee section and I have the support lagged to the house with 10 lags 5/16'' by 2''. Then I go up next to the fascia board which I had beefed up by installed a 2x4 frame against the house eaves and have a wall band holding the selkirk pipe. I have the band lagged to the beefed up fascia board. I have a total of 12' of chimney pipe above the tee. Yesterday I had a guy install the adjustable roof brace and told him it needed to be lagged to the purlings or trusses[whatever you call them] I told him they should be spread but he said if he pulled them apart much they would bend the brackets. So, They are about 20-24'' apart. The band didn't fit supertight and looks to me that it slipped down a bit. I climbed up there and put a level on it and it's still plumb but I worry about the wind. I want to fabricate another couple braces and do in between above the roof and between there and the top roof brace. 3 braces should be enough for 10' above roof line.Anyway, That's what's outside. Inside I have a Harman TLC 2000 stove which has a pre drilled collar. The stove pipe the dealer gave me goes inside the collar and it's only a 17'' pc. Then I have the adjustable 90 and then a horizontal pipe which has a collar that LOOSELY fits over the male [fringed ]pipe from the wall adapter. I know it says it has to be 30mm overlap but wondered if I could slip it over until it stops ? Thanks guys for all the info. Once I get the inside figured out I can play with fire.
My selkirk system is a thru the wall kit and I didn't have enough room to go thru the eaves so had a angle Iron pair of 1 1/2'' brackets made to support the tee section and I have the support lagged to the house with 10 lags 5/16'' by 2''. Then I go up next to the fascia board which I had beefed up by installed a 2x4 frame against the house eaves and have a wall band holding the selkirk pipe. I have the band lagged to the beefed up fascia board. I have a total of 12' of chimney pipe above the tee. Yesterday I had a guy install the adjustable roof brace and told him it needed to be lagged to the purlings or trusses[whatever you call them] I told him they should be spread but he said if he pulled them apart much they would bend the brackets. So, They are about 20-24'' apart. The band didn't fit supertight and looks to me that it slipped down a bit. I climbed up there and put a level on it and it's still plumb but I worry about the wind. I want to fabricate another couple braces and do in between above the roof and between there and the top roof brace. 3 braces should be enough for 10' above roof line.Anyway, That's what's outside. Inside I have a Harman TLC 2000 stove which has a pre drilled collar. The stove pipe the dealer gave me goes inside the collar and it's only a 17'' pc. Then I have the adjustable 90 and then a horizontal pipe which has a collar that LOOSELY fits over the male [fringed ]pipe from the wall adapter. I know it says it has to be 30mm overlap but wondered if I could slip it over until it stops ? Thanks guys for all the info. Once I get the inside figured out I can play with fire.