KA-4 Vs. KAA2

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efo141
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Post by efo141 » Sun. Nov. 02, 2008 9:34 am

I have a Kaa2 on order but I have a line on a 7-8 year old Ka-4. I don't need the extra btus but it would be nice to get a boiler in place before March. My question is how much more coal will I burn with the ka4 at idle. My chimney is a short outside masonry. will I need an extra combustion fan to run it in the warmer months? They are asking 2500 for the Ka4.

 
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europachris
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Post by europachris » Sun. Nov. 02, 2008 9:34 pm

I'm not sure about the coal consumption, but it should not be a lot different than the KAA-2. I do think you will need the extra 'booster' fan to keep it lit during the warmer weather, and it probably helps with the completeness of burn - that is the one advantage of the KAA-2 - the combustion fan runs all the time - on the KA-4 and up, it runs only when the stoker runs - hence why they added the 'booster' fan.

But, aside from that, if the boiler is in good shape and has been well kept during the summer months (if shut down) so it didn't rust, I'd be all over that KA-4 like a fat kid on a Twinkie. It's simply a more robust stoker unit than the stove-derived KAA-2 unit. Nothing wrong with the KAA-2, but mechanically, it's just light duty comparatively speaking.

But, you can't go wrong either way, and the KAA-2 is a tiny little thing that will fit well in most newer, well insulated homes that just don't need that much heat.

Chris

 
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Post by LsFarm » Sun. Nov. 02, 2008 11:09 pm

There will be a very small difference in coal burned at idle between the two.. especially if you add the combustion blower to the Ka4. Like Chris said,, I'd be all over that boiler.. Providing it is in reasonably good shape.. Buy it.

Greg L

 
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Post by efo141 » Mon. Nov. 03, 2008 4:43 pm

What would I be looking for as far as the condition. When the grates are worn out do they get thin ? How thick are they new? What else would you look for?


 
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Post by europachris » Mon. Nov. 03, 2008 9:14 pm

Look at the side rails of the stoker - they should be thick and even without any eroded or thin spots. The grates should look flat and smooth with no warps. A small hairline crack is OK - my grate has a crack but it's not all the way across and it doesn't affect performance at all.

Then, look at the rest of the inside of the unit - it shouldn't look like any material is missing, thin, warped, eaten away, big flakes of rust or corrosion falling off, severely pitted, etc. Surface rust or discoloration is normal. But what kills them fast is when packed fly ash is allowed to get wet and sit. My stove had a few spots where ash collected, got damp/wet, and really ate the steel badly. Fortunately, I caught it early enough and got it cleaned up and there's no structural problem at this point. Regular maintenance and keeping it clean and dry over the summers will make sure the corrosion doesn't progress further.

The stoker sides and grate are relatively easy to replace even if worn - it's the boiler structure itself that becomes much more difficult to fix unless you're a skilled fabricator/welder or know one. As long as it was relatively well kept, you've got little to worry about - Keystokers are built like tanks. Most likely they will inherit the Earth, along with the cockroaches..... :roll: Other things (controls, motors, fans, etc.) are normal wear items and not terribly expensive. But, unless it's a basket case or been under water, for the price, it's a deal. LOL, my Keystoker WAS a basket case and after a lot of parts and TLC, looks and works like new.

Good luck!

Chris

Chris

 
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Post by efo141 » Mon. Nov. 03, 2008 9:39 pm

Great info thanks. If its in good shape and still avail. I think ill get it. Will the Ka4 burn buck? I have 24 tons of 50/50 rice/buck mix

 
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Post by europachris » Mon. Nov. 03, 2008 9:53 pm

It should burn that mix very well. No worries.

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