Baker Insert Will Fit . . . but Not With Adapter! Help!

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WoodButcher
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Post by WoodButcher » Mon. Nov. 03, 2008 9:39 pm

ok, here goes. I bought a used baker insert, and I cant wait to use it . well, I bought it knowing that I could burn wood and coal (wood only for now) , and it fit my hearth perfectly with little room to spare.

heres the issue. ive been talking to guys on the hearth forum up the road and they said I need an adapter boot to fit over my rectangular outlet(on top) on my baker stove. then I need to get either a direct connect kit or run a new liner the whole length of my chimney .

ONE BIG PROBLEM. there is 2" of clearance at the top of the firebox to the top of the lintel. so theres no way of bolting and sealing this adapter boot to my stove to be able to hook up the required 8" flex pipe. . . it just wont fit. ide love to bolt it down and slide it in but I need about 4 more inches up top.

then some people said to hook the adapter to the flex pipe, let it dangle in the smoke chamber, then slide stove into place. only a couple problems with this:
1. the shroud is welded on so you cant reach in from the sides at all to seal it and/or bolt the adapter boot on.
2. the baker has a built in baffle box so you cant get to the outlet to attach the adapter from inside the stove. look at pics. its the pic which shows the blower heat pipes.

i have an internal chimney , 18' tall , and 12" flue in excellent shape.

the only thing ive been recommended was to blast an access hole from the outside in the chimney and when done, block off the hole with a steel plate. im not gonna do that, I think its a little much . I like the baker a lot, and will eventually burn coal so I don't wanna get rid of it .

another option is to blast out a 10" wide by 4" high part of the top of the lintel. its braced with a metal plate almost the whole width of the lintel on the inside. I really think its a support brace. I shouldnt mess with it, even if the shroud covers up the damage.

i was told not to just slide the stove in without a connecting pipe because my chimneys short and ide get terrible draft and its a safety hazard and code violation... though my brothers old Brunco stove manual doesnt even call for a connecting pipe to bypass the smoke chamber. . . im burning right now on the open hearth, and the draft is good, no smoke, even when starting it with kindling .

any ideas would be greatly appreciated! I don't want to sell the stove, ive grown to like it after driving 400 miles to pick it up. I just want to see it with some hot embers in it asap.

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top view from back

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this is the baffle in the way of seeing or touching the outlet hole , view is from inside front loading door looking up

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chimney from outside

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Freddy
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Post by Freddy » Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 4:59 am

Your gut is right, do not cut the steel of the lintel.

The idea is to make a connection bewteen the stove and the tile of the chimney? When the stove is slid in, is the stove smoke outlet fairly close to being in line with the chimney flu? I might give thought to a custom steel two piece connection. One piece attaches to the flu, the other to the stove. As the stove slides in, part one mates with part two.

I think you might have a low draft issue when burning coal. I don't have a lot of experience with it, but I've seen posts where people in a similar circumstance, a coal stove going into a fairly large chimney, need to put in a 6" liner. That increses the velocity of the smoke and makes better draft.... expecially on a short chimney. I'll bet someone comes along and thinks your chimney is also short for coal.

 
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acesover
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Post by acesover » Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 9:20 am

Hi
Grind off that shroud to get access to your adaptor, block off damper area with one inch ridged fiberglass insulation... you will gain extra heat, oh yea go get some murridacacid to clean those bricks in your fireplace cause you will be looking at them all winter. I think it looks better with out the shroud anyway. Picks of my used Baker, still in the garage working on it.
Ray

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WoodButcher
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Post by WoodButcher » Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 2:18 pm

ya see, your flue outlet is on the rear of the stove facing behind it. I WISH mine was that way. mines on the rear by facing up, hence the reason I cant slide it in.

well, I just measured the stove exactly on the width IF I cut off the shroud:

i have 6" to spare if I slide the stove all the way to the left of the hearth opening, ill have 6" to reach my right arm through on the right side of the stove to tighten anything down.

im going to order 20 feet of 7" round pipe to run the whole 12" flue amount, ovalize the last 3 feet, and connect it to the oval adapter boot. ventinox seems like a good company for the boot adapter. the adapter I need is in the pic below, the ICO-8 adapter. I like this adapter because it has a draw-down style tightener, meaning theres a crossbar that makes an X in the outlet hole so you don't need to drill and tap the stove. some people say with some sheet metal I could make a block off plate myself. . what do you think?

so in reality the only things I need are the insert adapter boot and 20 feet of pipe to allow me to go past the damper frame, right? if I make my own block off plate, how would I attach it to the ovalized pipe so it holds the pipe in place? or am I better off buying a blockoff plate?

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WoodButcher
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Post by WoodButcher » Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 10:19 pm

what size flue do you think I should get if I have a exterior 16' chimney and a huge Baker insert? baker said their outlets on their new inserts is 7" . thats all the advice I got from them . I cant find an insert adapter boot for a 7" liner.

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