Drive pawl sticking issue

If the drive pawl doesn't fall into the teeth of the ratchet drum on every stroke, remove the nut, stud and drive pawl, clean with a suitable solvent and leave the metal parts dry. Do not oil. Parts 9432911, 9433743 and 81802

http://nepacrossroads.com/download/file ... &mode=view

Or you can file the edge of the drive paw to make sharp it again They start to roll over after many years of use same
goes for the stop paw

Do you mean you shouldn't oil it when you re assemble it? Just run it dry?

[Do you mean you shouldn't oil it when you re assemble it? Just run it dry?]






SOMETIMES OIL CAN GUM IT UP.

I put graphite on mine. It's a dry lubricant.

I called EFM and talked to a rep. They told me that the oil only really serves to reduce the noise of the ratcheting of the paw and gear.

No, we're not talking about that oil. That oil in the oil pan is NECESSARY to lubricate the entire geardrive assembly; proper name is clutch drive assembly. We're only talking about the part that engages the large drum gear, located at the very top of the entire assembly, called a drive pawl. One is silver colored and the other is blue (check pawl). You still need the 90W oil in the pan. Sometimes 160W oil was used in the oil pan instead to quiet the drive pawl from dragging over the teeth when the stoker was located where the clicking was annoying upstairs. The newer models have a thin metal shield used for many years to prevent that annoyance, so 160W oil should not be needed.

The older stokers that used the square blue gearbox at the lower end of the connecting rod use 20W oil and it is filled so that the level can be seen in the small street elbow at the lower end of the box.

The newer gearboxes are cubic and of gray color and are lifetime lubricated. No oil change is necessary and no oil is added unless it leaks.

The geardrive is located at the upper end of the connecting rod and the gearbox or (gear reduction unit) is located at the bottom end of the connecting rod and directly connected to the motor shaft.

I had this same problem, and found the pawl was being pushed up slightly by the round rivets on the metal shield. I didn't realize there is some play in the adjustment for the metal cover. You might want to make sure the pawl is not hitting these metal bumps. It was also getting gummed up by the oil. I cleaned it and sprayed it with silicon lubricant, and its been fine after the cleaning and adjusting the metal gear cover.

Dave

Stoker-man,

I disassembled the drive pawl, and cleaned off all oil in the mounting hole/bolt since it was not going down fast enough to catch the teeth on the drive gear. I checked it a few days after cleaning it, and its filled with oil again. The oil is wicking up from the gear cover. So the oil eventually gets dirty enough in the drive pawl to make it not go down fast enough to engage the drive gear. Is there any work around to this problem other than cleaning this out every couple of months? Should I increase the diameter of the hole in the drive pawl?

Thanks,

Dave

Maybe you have too much oil in the oil pan.