Keystoker Questions

Good morning. First I wanted to say that this forum is a great tool to get information. I've been reading through dozens of posts to find out more about my furnace, and it has been quite helpful--more helpful than the factory, mind you! I've called them for advice and information (for example, what type of paint they used on the boiler/heat exchanger--they couldn't even give me an answer!) and have not got very far.

I do have a few questions for the A-300 model that I was hoping someone could help me on:

1. The hopper is the same hopper that is used for the A-200, 300, and 450, and the manual says that the opening at the bottom (releasing the coal to the stoker) may have to be enlarged for larger models. I guess my question is, what should the opening be then? I bought this furnace used, and don't want to go off of how it was hooked up before I got it. The hopper is a little rusty, and I'm going to be welding new sheet metal in. Just thought I'd ask before I install it with 300 lbs of coal in it and decide it's not a big enough opening!

2. On the stoker itself, I took everything apart, cleaned it, and painted the front. However, I forgot the position of the stoker bars (the bars that push the coal into the furnace) with respect to the arm at the outside. Where should the bars be at their furthest point towards the furnace? Should they extend past the horizontal plate that bolts on the stoker, or should they line up with it, or before it? Not too sure--didn't get much information from the factory--the manual they send you isn't very complete either. Refer to the picture that I have enclosed. The two black lines refer to the question about alignment.
3. I have a 3 story brick house with long 3-flue brick chimney. I'm hoping that without DV that I'll be fine. I should be able to have a good draft with it. I know that on my first floor fireplace has a great draft. This furnace is in the basement, so I'm hoping it should be fine.

4. Any suggestions about the firebox itself? I was thinking of painting it, as it is somewhat rusty; not too bad, but wanted to protect it. Any luck or bad experiences?

5. The sheet metal panels that enclose it--I would also like to paint those. That paint isn't a special high heat paint is it? I think I can use just regular enamel and be fine, right?

Appreciate all the help. Thanks very much!

The stoker looks like the KA-6, only larger and with two push blocks instead of one. The adjustment for the KA-6 is to se the pusher bar to be 3/4" from the throat strap at the most forward or downward travel. In other words the pusher bar will never be any closer than 3/4" to the throat strap. I think this is the same setting you can use for your stoker.

Thanks for the info on the stoker adjustments. Everything's in great shape on it and I 'tuned' it up last night.

Can anyone help out with the other questions? Still wondering about the hopper opening, painting the firebox, and chimney.

thanks

Some have painted the firebox, it will probably burn off eventually, I just wire brush it, and spray LPS3 rust preventative on it after the season.

Your hopper opening should be a little smaller than the opening you have on the top of your stoker assembly. Cut into the corners of the opening so that you can bend a small, about half an inch, flange on the bottom of the hoper down into the stoker opening. The hopper sets on top of the stoker body and the hole in the hopper is made to size and the flange is bent to fit into the stoker opening. You do this "in the field" to get a good fit between the hopper and stoker.

I'll attach a picture of my hopper to show the fit. Unfortunately I don't have one looking into the hopper to show exactly what I am talking about but I think you can figure it out.

Also note that I have a boiler but that should not matter because the stoker and hopper should be the same. If this does not look or sound right you are the final judge, seek further guidance!

I let my hopper run down so that I could post a picture. You can see how they just bend the sheet metal into the rear feed part of the stoker. How low can it go? Yes! we still have fire. No! it is not burning back. These pictures were taken only minutes apart.

My keystoker hopper is the same way. I also put a small ramp on back side to help push it towards the chute. It helps some, but needs to be a higher angle.

Coal Hopper Modification

Gaw,

Those pictures are great! I appreciate that very much. My stoker has two pusher bar assemblies, and it is quite a large throat (it's a stoker size d), but I should make it just a little smaller than the actual stoker area? Also, the lateral position of the two push bars--should they be almost touching or spread out to cover the most area on the stoker inclined plate?

art1339 wrote: My stoker has two pusher bar assemblies, and it is quite a large throat (it's a stoker size d), but I should make it just a little smaller than the actual stoker area? Also, the lateral position of the two push bars--should they be almost touching or spread out to cover the most area on the stoker inclined plate?

Just a little smaller. If you are buying a new hopper they probably only have the smallest size hole pre-cut and you have to customize the size for the larger stoker. The front is just bent flat to set on the throat strap, the sides are bent almost 90* down and the rear on the same angle as the ramp into the throat.

art1339 wrote:Also, the lateral position of the two push bars--should they be almost touching or spread out to cover the most area on the stoker inclined plate?

I don't know the answer to that one. Can you see the marks on the rod from the set screws from the original setup? If it were me and I could not get an answer that I knew were correct I would space the pusher bars equally across having gaps at the sides and center approximately the same width. Size D, that must be 6 grates wide? That’s BIG. Try Keystoker directly if you can't get a good answer here.

One quick Question regarding the pusher. SHould it be adjusted from the inside or the outside of the hopper. I think I'm having the same issue. I only have one pusher but it is even with the throat when it goes full cycle.

Any suggestion would be a big help.

Adjust it from inside the hopper. It will be easier to remove the hopper. You can use a small piece of 3/4" board as a gauge to set it. It would be wise to use new set screws. They are 5/16 x 18 - 1/2" long.

Where Can I get new set screws? Can I get them at the local hardware store or do I need to get them direct from Keystoker?

Most hardware stores and good auto supply stores have a selection/assortment of set screws.. take one of your's along to match the thread..

For cutting the bottom of the new hopper.. MAKE A TEMPLATE !!! [I can't tell you how many times I yelled at myself for NOT making a template !!]

Just take a piece of cardboard, or several if needed,, and cut the opening, bend the flaps down, untill you have exactly what you want to cut and bend on the bottom of your hopper... you can trash a lot of cardboard, for no cost at all,, you won't be happy if you mess up the cut in the bottom of the hopper..

Measure three times.. no, make if four times,, cut a smaller hole than intended,, postion the hopper over the stoker feed opening,, make sure it looks right,, then trim out to your desired size..

OK, I'm done nagging...

Greg L

gaw , awsome pics . what size coal is that your burning ??

I don't have my keystoker yet but am curious as to how heavy is the hopper stock? Can it be bent with normal sheet metal tools? thanks. Mike