I Need Help With My Dwyer Manometer

I also need help with the dwyer manometer. I bought the model 25 and when I try to check my stove, the room tempture is rising and the guage oil is rising like "mercury". With-in about 1 minute the guage oil is at 3. Then I have to reset the oil, but again it is rising out of control with nothing on the hose's. I have tryed with the oil cool, but it heats up to quick. I have tryed moving the manometer away, tried removing some of the oil. I spent about 40 bucks and can't fiqure the thing out. Can some please help

You should have one tube hooked from a probe in your chimney flue pipe to one connection on the Dwyer manometer.. Without the tube connected you need to zero the red fluid.. With a slight vacuum on the tube the fluid should move to the right..

Don't hook up the other tube or side of the manometer, use only one connection.

Your chimney draft will be lower when the stove is idling, as it makes more heat, the chimney will draw more, causing the manometer to read higher... But it should not read more than around .1 without a barometric damper.. with a baro damper, you can control the maximum draft to what your stove manufacturer suggests.. usualy around .03-.04 for a stoker, or .05-.07 for a hand feed stove..

Greg L.

It sounds to me like there's too much oil in the unit. Did you follow directions exactly to fill and zero the gauge before putting the rubber tube on it?

You only need about a third of a bottle in the unit. With the lower knob turned all the ways clockwise and the unit level you shouldn't see any fluid at all. If you do, you need to remove some of it until none is visable. I have filled two of them with one bottle of fluid with still enough for a third. Once you are done level the manometer and zero it by turning the lower knob until the red fluid is on zero. You then connect the line as Greg suggested.
Jon

Steevesj,
This is how I set up my manometer, First I mounted and leveled it. Then I turned the zero adjust knob all the way counter-clockwise till it stopped, then turn the adjust knob three turns clockwise. this puts the zero adjust knob in the middle of it's travel. Next poured in the red fliud until it was close to the zero mark on the guage and yes you will over fill it and have to wick the extra out. Use a pipe cleaner for this or I used 2 q-tips taped end-to -end to reach down to the fluid and wicked out enough to bring the fluid close to the zero mark. once you get it close to the zero put the cap on the fill port and fine tune to the zero mark with the adjust knob. Once you are zeroed out you can then hook up the tube to the left port of the manometer the other end I connected to a 1/4" copper tube that connected to the flue pipe just below the baro damper. The other end I put a short piece of tube on and routed it in a down position so that dust will not fall into the port over time. Next you can adjust your baro for the draft you want to use. I have my set at .05 for my hand-fired stove.
Hope this will help you out.
JB

LsFarm wrote:You should have one tube hooked from a probe in your chimney flue pipe to one connection on the Dwyer manometer.. Without the tube connected you need to zero the red fluid.. With a slight vacuum on the tube the fluid should move to the right..

Don't hook up the other tube or side of the manometer, use only one connection.

Your chimney draft will be lower when the stove is idling, as it makes more heat, the chimney will draw more, causing the manometer to read higher... But it should not read more than around .1 without a barometric damper.. with a baro damper, you can control the maximum draft to what your stove manufacturer suggests.. usualy around .03-.04 for a stoker, or .05-.07 for a hand feed stove..

Greg L.

Greg,

I notice I get a higher reading when the tube is 90 degrees from the "smoke" flow, versus if it is just draped in the damper hole. Are we trying to get a venturi affect, or does that just inflate the number erroneously?

Thanks!
Mitch

How much difference do you see with and without the venturi effect?? I haven't noticed any venturi effect in my chimney, but it only pulls a .02-.03" draft usually.. not much air flow past the probe's end..

If the venturi effect is .01" or so, I'd ignore it..

Greg L.

.

coalmeister wrote:I notice I get a higher reading when the tube is 90 degrees from the "smoke" flow, versus if it is just draped in the damper hole.

You will not get an accurate reading by just sticking the manometer tube in the baro. Also with the tube in the baro how will the baro close when it needs to?

coalmeister wrote:I get a higher reading when the tube is 90 degrees from the "smoke" flow, versus if it is just draped in the damper hole.

I agree with Gambler. if it's IN the baro you are getting some room air & that will make the reading innacurate. I was taught to take the reading between the breach (exit of unit) and the damper, at least 12 inches from damper.

My damper (RCBT) is attached to the top vent of the stove, then elbow, then 2 1/2 foot straight shot to the chimney. Other than taking a reading from the opposite side of the T from the damper I have to do it after the damper. Does it matter where? Will readings be off after the damper?

Don't the Alaska stoves have a removable plug on the stove to accommodate a manometer hook up?

Freddy wrote:

coalmeister wrote:I get a higher reading when the tube is 90 degrees from the "smoke" flow, versus if it is just draped in the damper hole.

I agree with Gambler. if it's IN the baro you are getting some room air & that will make the reading innacurate. I was taught to take the reading between the breach (exit of unit) and the damper, at least 12 inches from damper.

When I placed it in the baro I sealed it off with plastic. I was just using the baro opening as a test when I got the unit out of the box and was surprised that when it just draped in the stove pipe it read a lower number on the gauge, than when I pulled it out it went up when it was at 90 degrees on the way out.

kjb197 wrote:My damper (RCBT) is attached to the top vent of the stove, then elbow, then 2 1/2 foot straight shot to the chimney. Other than taking a reading from the opposite side of the T from the damper I have to do it after the damper. Does it matter where? Will readings be off after the damper?

The number you get after the damper is the chimney's draft and is not what you want. You must take the reading before the baro for the draft on the appliance.

I would move the damper close to the thimble, being closer to the stove it will pull the warmer air close to the appliance up the chimney, not the cooler air by the chimney.

ALL reading must be BEFORE the BARO Damper, that is between the stove and the Baro. You are trying to set the draft of the STOVE itself using the baro damper.

Some models have a HEX Screw in the ASH door corner to check draft of the stove. Sometimes you can get a small adapter for the tubing and push into a screw hole in the piping or drill a small hole to hook it up in the stove pipe.

gambler wrote:Don't the Alaska stoves have a removable plug on the stove to accommodate a manometer hook up?

In the back of the stove under the hopper is Large bolt (15/16) plugging a hole into the fire box. Is this what your talking about? I tried taking it out, its so tight I'm picking up the stove.