Mark Lll Wont Stay Running. WTF
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- Joined: Sun. Oct. 26, 2008 12:20 pm
- Location: Glen Rock, PA
I use Blakshak coal (nut size). I get my fire burning very well for about 2 to 3 days (Stove pipe temp is around 200 to 250) then it goes out. I have plenty of draft, it seems when the ash is building up it stops my air flow. (i guess) I shake the stove once in morning and once before bed. When I see a couple of red coals fall I stop. I will try to poke through the bottom of grates tonight to help air. It seems so simple but what in the world is going on? Draft, Air, Coal, and Fire !!!!!!
I NEED HELP, Wood was so easy compared to this. I will keep trying but im getting very frustrated.
Thanks for all your help, Billy
I NEED HELP, Wood was so easy compared to this. I will keep trying but im getting very frustrated.
Thanks for all your help, Billy
- LsFarm
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
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When the fire goes out, and you clean out the firebox to start a new fire, what do you see on the grates?? I'll bet they are choked with ash..
Learning how to shake, how long and how aggressively is a learning process that changes with the coal you are burning, how hot you burn it, and how deep you make your coal fire..
What happens is the hard crunchy ash builds up several layers deep on the grates, holding the fine powedery ash above the grates, blocking air flow..
Try increasing the distance you move the shaker handle a little bit further, opening the gap between the grates a little bit wider so the pieces of ash can be pinched and crushed by the grates..
Many Harman Mark stove owners run one fire all winter long.. it's just a matter of learning your coal and your stove..
Greg L.
Learning how to shake, how long and how aggressively is a learning process that changes with the coal you are burning, how hot you burn it, and how deep you make your coal fire..
What happens is the hard crunchy ash builds up several layers deep on the grates, holding the fine powedery ash above the grates, blocking air flow..
Try increasing the distance you move the shaker handle a little bit further, opening the gap between the grates a little bit wider so the pieces of ash can be pinched and crushed by the grates..
Many Harman Mark stove owners run one fire all winter long.. it's just a matter of learning your coal and your stove..
Greg L.
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- Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
- Location: Central Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
- Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
My first guess is, not enough shaking down. I have seen the same thing happen, everything is great for a couple days, then heat output declines and it's hard to keep the fire going. Trouble is, when you look from the top and see burning coals, you can't tell if the burning layer is an inch thick or six inches thick.
Shake, and poke from underneath, until you can see some red glow when you look at the bottom of the grates. I like to see the red over about 75 per cent of the grate, but some people would say that's too much.
P.S. Wood was easy compared to this? Once you get by this problem, you'll eat those words!
Shake, and poke from underneath, until you can see some red glow when you look at the bottom of the grates. I like to see the red over about 75 per cent of the grate, but some people would say that's too much.
P.S. Wood was easy compared to this? Once you get by this problem, you'll eat those words!
Your stove is a good one & you just need to get some experience with it. First, fill it all the way up with coal....to the tops of the firebrick.
Try this thread as far as shaking down is concerned. Shaking a Hand Fired Stove ?
Once you get the hang of coal you'll never go back to wood.
Try this thread as far as shaking down is concerned. Shaking a Hand Fired Stove ?
Once you get the hang of coal you'll never go back to wood.
Last edited by Devil505 on Mon. Nov. 17, 2008 6:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I found my stove was burning and creating a dome underneath not allowing a good shaking. I take my poker and poke down (not stir) into the coals firmly and you can see the "dome" colapse. Then I shake down and can now see red embers drop down across most of the grates.(most not all) Chris
- jpete
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- Coal Size/Type: Stove, Nut, Pea
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I really had problems running nut in my Mk I. I switched to pea and it's been smooth sailing ever since. Nut will burn, but it seems like it won't "idle" like the pea. Nut is either full steam ahead or it's out. That's been my experience anyway.
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- Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
- Location: Central Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
- Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
I had just the opposite in my Mk I, nut burns great but pea is lousy. Weird, huh? Depends on individual stove & chimney combination, I guess, each one has to experiment for himself and see what works.jpete wrote:I really had problems running nut in my Mk I
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Ok, glad to here everyone so positive. (MAKES ME FEEL BETTER.) I have started a new fire tonight. I will shake it down in the morning and post again when I get home from work
Thanks for all the post backs, it is really helping the way I feel about COAL... I am trying very hard. Thanks again.
Billy
Thanks for all the post backs, it is really helping the way I feel about COAL... I am trying very hard. Thanks again.
Billy
- jpete
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- Location: Warwick, RI
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mk II
- Coal Size/Type: Stove, Nut, Pea
- Other Heating: Dino juice
I guess. Nut works, as long as you like it 125*rberq wrote:I had just the opposite in my Mk I, nut burns great but pea is lousy. Weird, huh? Depends on individual stove & chimney combination, I guess, each one has to experiment for himself and see what works.jpete wrote:I really had problems running nut in my Mk I
- dutch
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- Location: UPstate NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska Channing III
bill,
now that it's staying cold for a few days, see how it goes. also,
how much ash have you been getting? how many shakes till you
have to empty your ash pan? when i'm running, I usually dump
the pan once daily, and it's usually pretty full. if you aren't getting
that much ash, as others have said, maybe you need some more shaking...
also, are you getting a full load of coal each morning/night? to the top
of the firebrick?
you will get the hang of it, we have all been there once
good luck!
now that it's staying cold for a few days, see how it goes. also,
how much ash have you been getting? how many shakes till you
have to empty your ash pan? when i'm running, I usually dump
the pan once daily, and it's usually pretty full. if you aren't getting
that much ash, as others have said, maybe you need some more shaking...
also, are you getting a full load of coal each morning/night? to the top
of the firebrick?
you will get the hang of it, we have all been there once
good luck!
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- Joined: Sun. Oct. 26, 2008 12:20 pm
- Location: Glen Rock, PA
Its almost like there is ash in between my hot coal that is on the bottom and the coal on the top. It seems there is a bed of ash that I caint get out very easy. I empty my ash pan once a day and it seems pretty full. If I shake to much I think I loose my fire. I think...
Billy
Billy
It won't take long to get the hang of it. I think I had the most problems when I started burning coal six years ago with a Mark II was shaking down a weak fire. Before shaking leave the ash pan door open for a bit to make sure the fire is strong . Shake till you see more red ashes in the ashpan if you are in doubt. Coal makes you pay at the start but you will enjoy it later.
I have the same stove. When I shake down, I keep shaking until I can see a red glow on the ash pan. I don't look up at the grates from underneath, I just look for the red glow reflecting off the ash in the pan. If there are any spots that aren't red I poke down from the top until the rod comes through the bottom and I can see it in the ash pan (the rod is 3/16 steel), then I shake again. I use nut coal and have had no problems. One thing I have found with this stove is it likes a deep bed of glowing coals before shaking down. Before you shake down open the ash pan door and let the fire get going strong. Sprinkle a thin layer of coal on top without disturbing the bed. Once that is going , sprinkle on some more. When that is going you can shake it down pretty hard without worry of it going out. One other thing you might try is to empty the ash pan after every shake down. I noticed with my set-up the ash in the pan changed the way the draft went through the coal bed affecting the burn, so I dump the ash every time. As others have said, each stove and set-up is different. Once you learn the quirks of your set-up, it will be easy. Keep asking and listening to the people here, they are very knowledgable and very helpful.
I do the same thing.Shaking alone didn't do it. As when I got aggressive with the shaking it would jam on me. So I made a poker from 3/8" round stock with a bend of about 3 1/2 in. or more with a long handle so my hand won't get the heat and Poke into the fire not to stir it. As long as the fire is going o.k. this doesn't hurt the burning. When I do this I see lot's of ash falling into the pan. It also clears the corners out nicely. Clears the front out as well were there is little gap in the grates. So I shake poke then shake then add coal for the day or night.zeeklu wrote:I found my stove was burning and creating a dome underneath not allowing a good shaking. I take my poker and poke down (not stir) into the coals firmly and you can see the "dome" colapse. Then I shake down and can now see red embers drop down across most of the grates.(most not all) Chris
Also like Greg says to check whats left on the grates next time it goes out. You may be buring too cool and the unburnt coals are stopping the ash from dropping. I run mine hot for a little while if I suspect there is unburnt coals withing the ash. Then shake,poke,shake then add. This works for me. My Mark III is running fine but it produces lot's of heat in temps above 35 as I work in the basement with it. I will need this in the winter I believe. (new house and new stove this season). I might get a Mark I to use early season and late season.