VIDEO of my method of tending the stove.

Dallas wrote:

LsFarm wrote:[ Old stoves didn't have sealed doors, they were metal to metal. The stove bodies were made out of plates of cast iron loosely fitted together, and poorly sealed

No, they didn't have gaskets, etc, as the things "fit".

Also, I don't agree with your analysis of a heat riser. Fact is, there was a plate restricting the exhaust flow.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-301.htm

HEAT RISER VALVE

Definition: A control valve between the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe on one side of a V8 or V6 engine that restricts the flow of exhaust causing it to flow back through the heat riser channel under the intake manifold. This aids fuel evaporation and speeds engine warm up. A heat riser valve stuck open will slow engine warm-up and may cause hesitation and stalling when the engine is cold. A valve stuck in the closed position will greatly restrict the exhaust system and cause a noticeable lack of power and drop in fuel economy.

Dallas, read what you are writing, steel to steel, or cast iron to cast iron WILL NOT SEAL against a draft.. These surfaces are not machined, and the surfaces are imperfect.. the doors and sides/joints LEAK AIR... There is no argument here,, THEY LEAK.. I've helped many people try to seal up old style stoves and boilers.. the doors need to be remanufactured with gaskets.. and the stove bodies need to be dissassembled and sealed with furnace cement.. like every year or two.. 'cause the cement cracks from the expansion/contraction of the cast iron... The old cast iron stoves are NOT airtight.. You can take a candle or incense stick near the doors, the sides and there is air being drawn in... they leak..

NOW: read the red highlighted portion in your quote from engines course 101, the object is to divert the hot gasses to under the carburetor and heat the intake manifold.. NOT to restrict the exhaust gases,, that is just the way the heat riser does the job.. the intent is to divert hot exhaust NOT to restrict the exhaust.. Trust me,, I've been turning wrenches on cars since I was 8 years old.... and that is damned near 50 years now.... I know what I'm talking about..

Greg L

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LOL

Every one's setup is different. One must read all these tips and try them to see what works for them what doesn't and not to be against anything because a few say so.
All I know is my Harman is one sweet burning unit. Nothing high tech put on this stove..My temps last night was 9 deg. F. Woke up to a nice warm house..(I keep the bedroom cool). I went down to the stove at 6am opened the MPD,shook it some,(I've learned to jiggle not jam ) poked it alot,shook it some more,loaded a mound of coal. MPD closed, air control knob out 2 turns . Now it's 5:20 pm and it's still putting out some nice heat with temps around 20deg. F. I'll tend it tonight about 8pm.again.
I feel that the MPD gives more options in using the airflow to control the fire,venting of fumes,etc. during burning,and while tending the stove. I'll never give mine up. I'll never stop poking It works well.
I've been burning coal too for too many years...this is my 15th. season.. Dallas's way is the perfect tending to strive for I'll say.

I thought I lost it last night and not a good night to do so! I had company and didn't get to tend the stove until about 12:30 am. I took a look and it was way beyond where it should have been. There was dead ash all the way around the perimeter, with some decent hot coals in the center ... about 4" x 12". I shook it down, loosened it with the poker and threw on about 1-1/2 "scoopers" of coal. I didn't know whether I'd wake in the middle of the night freezing to death or what. I wasn't optimistic. This morning, I knew all was well as soon as I started down the steps and the heat hit me. It could have gone either way, but I knew I wasn't staying up half of the night baby sitting it.