New owner -barometric damper?

How far should my barometric damper be opened on Pioneer top vent with damper in vertical position? Looking for the hottest burn, this all new to me. It currently stays halfway open set at the ten setting?

Well, you have to set it with a draft gauge, If it's on 10 and wide open, doesn't sound correct. It could be stuck open, does it move freely, sometimes if it goes to far, it can stick.

You really need to calibrate it with a draft gauge (manometer) to accurately set it. Mine in only on the 2-4 setting and maintains .03-.04 most of the time.

Are you using the Field Controls RC type baro? The numers indicate the Draft 2 = -.02, 4 = -.04 etc....These are ONLY approx.
If you are, the weight should be on the RIGHT for veritcal mounting.

Most stoker stoves should run the -.02 to -.04 range.

Yes it is the RC Field control type, it does swing freeely and seems to stay about half open, is that the way it needs to be?

Depends on what your stove is set at for draft, that;'s why you have to check it with a draft guage, the colder it is outside, the more it will open and stay open when the stove is running.

Thanks Dave!

We do have a Manometer Loaner program if you need to check it without wanting to purchase one. They only run about $30.

Hardtop, Dave is right. Your baro should be set in between the #2 and #4. To be sure, a draft gauge is necessary.
Jerry

hardtop wrote:Yes it is the RC Field control type, it does swing freely and seems to stay about half open, is that the way it needs to be?

The barometric damper allows your stove/furnace/boiler to have a more steady controlled burn; which allows for fuel conservation. That swinging of the damper indicates that the draft is changing. To test what effect it has, go ahead and hold the damper closed; but do not leave the room!

New to forum, first post. Am in process of ordering first coal stove and have decided on LL's Hearth model, which I intend to install on the raised hearth of my manufactured home's zero-clearance fireplace. I have removed all grates and firebrick from inside this inefficient fireplace and last winter plumbed in a small wood stove that heated the entire house quite well. My question (under the same topic line) is how and where do I install a barometric damper if the stove is backed up flush to this fireplace front? There will be no access available. I am concerned about feeding a six inch vent into an eight inch chimney pipe and did have a few issues last winter with drafting the wood stove (without damper) Thanks for any feedback

you don't run a baro with a wood stove normally (most people run hand dampers on wood stoves).

You might have to set it up with the stove moved out as far as possible and then move it into position once setup. can be tricky with that type of installation.

come right off of the back of the stove with the baro, then hook up the pipe.
Jerry

Thanks guys, and you are correct. No baro on the wood stove, just wondering about calibrating one on a coal stove set flush to fireplace front. Since my initial post, I've talked with a local installer and he has given me some tips that correspond with what you have said. Thanks again. I'm sure I'll have more questions as this transaction progresses.