Dump Trailers

coal berner wrote:

coalkirk wrote:Finally found one and made the deal. It's a 2007 Bri-mar DT610LP-10. I have had several in my sights over the last couple months but missed out before I could close the deal. This one was about 3 hours away near Ocean City Md. Has a little rust from the salt air but not bad. Has had very little use. Original tires and brakes in very good shape.

Brimar.jpg

Read about trailer tires there not like car or trucks they may look good but they might be safe and to buy any tires try the second
link put the size in the search

http://www.carlisletire.com/product_car ... poster.pdf

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.do?

You may also want to check the load range of your tires on the truck, i dont know if the cops would check them also if you were to get pulled over. I think that would depend on what your truck is titled at and what your vehicle is rated at to pull. I have load range E on my truck. Richard might chime in on this topic, he knows alot about this subject.

I've got load range E's on my truck too. I've hauled 2 tons in it before from PA but wouldn't want to put that much in it with the trailer too.

In reading about trailer tires, I've seen that it is recommended that they be replaced every 5 years regardless of tread wear. Apparently it's harder on tires to sit in one spot than to roll, other than tread wear. When you start reading aout trailer tires, there are lots of horror stories about blow outs. It seems many are traced to tires made in China. Also lots of controversy about ST vs LT tires for trailers. I've got Carlisle tires on my travel trailer but its a light weight unit. I'm alittle concerned about tires for a 10k dump trailer now. Calling on the vast wisdom here to give me your experiences and recommendations. I don't want any drama while haulng coal.

I'd replace the tires. They almost never go flat at home. How are the tires on your "Super Dodge"? Make sure those are in nice shape as well. Have you ever changed the gear lube in the rear differential on that beast?

I replaced the seven year old tires on my trailer yesterday, and I was shocked at how weather-checked they were.

For your trailer I would suggest:

1. Load range E radial tires
2. Metal valve stems
3. Tire covers

I'm happy with the Carlise tires I bought from Discount Tire Direct. I mounted them myself and didn't balance them. I gave away the bias ply tires that were still were good. For longest tire life it would be desirable to avoid sun light exposure to the tire and not have weight on the tire, i.e. jack the trailer up. Not always easy to do. Four mechanical farm equipment jacks might make it reasonable to do. Ozone also deteriorates tire rubber but there is no practical way to avoid it.

I'm very leery about any rubber product made in China. It seems almost assured that it will deteriorate quicky (and possibly catastrophically). I replaced some lower control arm bushings on my VW Jetta TDI with some from a reliable on-line supplier. The OEM units went over 150K miles and weren't all that bad. The replacements didn't even last 8K and were completely gone. They "looked" 100% OEM, but I'm sure they were Chinese knockoffs.

Yanche wrote:For your trailer I would suggest:

1. Load range E radial tires
2. Metal valve stems
3. Tire covers
...>8.

Yanche,

I can easily understand the metal valve stems and the UV blocking effect of using tire covers when parked long term. Why radial tires over bias? Less heat buildup under load, less catastrophic/blowout failure?

When I talked about trailer tires just a little while with my trailer dealer I don't remember getting a good answer. I can only recall that he said boat trailer manufacturers will not use radial tires. He said it's because they heat up more as a result of more flexing and were prone to separating when the trailer was backed into the water. After trailering the load to the water and immersing hot tires in cold water, the thermal shock would aid in the belts delaminating. Now I know were talking dump trailers, but I'm trying to correlate issues regarding bias vs. radial.

My opinion preferring radial trailer is based on my trailer sales company recommending them, but I passed because they were more expensive. Also forum member GregL said his temperature measurements using an IR thermometer show that radial tires run cooler. GregL makes it part of his SOP to measure tire temperature at each pit stop. Just the discipline you would expect of a airline pilot.

I thought that radials ran cooler than bias. I can't recall the dealer's story completely. He might (probably) have said that radials on boat trailers came apart because of the shock from rapidly cooling when backed into the water.

VigIIPeaBurner wrote:I thought that radials ran cooler than bias. I can't recall the dealer's story completely. He might (probably) have said that radials on boat trailers came apart because of the shock from rapidly cooling when backed into the water.

I would make sure the trailer's electrical connection to the tow vehicle is unplugged before backing into the water though.

coaledsweat wrote:

VigIIPeaBurner wrote:I thought that radials ran cooler than bias. I can't recall the dealer's story completely. He might (probably) have said that radials on boat trailers came apart because of the shock from rapidly cooling when backed into the water.

I would make sure the trailer's electrical connection to the tow vehicle is unplugged before backing into the water though.

Yeah, I learned that one the hard way.

theo wrote:

coal berner wrote:

coalkirk wrote:Finally found one and made the deal. It's a 2007 Bri-mar DT610LP-10. I have had several in my sights over the last couple months but missed out before I could close the deal. This one was about 3 hours away near Ocean City Md. Has a little rust from the salt air but not bad. Has had very little use. Original tires and brakes in very good shape.

Brimar.jpg

Read about trailer tires there not like car or trucks they may look good but they might be safe and to buy any tires try the second
link put the size in the search

http://www.carlisletire.com/product_car ... poster.pdf

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.do?

You may also want to check the load range of your tires on the truck, i dont know if the cops would check them also if you were to get pulled over. I think that would depend on what your truck is titled at and what your vehicle is rated at to pull. I have load range E on my truck. Richard might chime in on this topic, he knows alot about this subject.

If your hauling any load on the truck or trailer it is a given to run E load tires their the only design to hold /carry the weight
if you don't use your truck for hauling or towing then a standard LT truck tire will do

coaledsweat wrote:

VigIIPeaBurner wrote:I thought that radials ran cooler than bias. I can't recall the dealer's story completely. He might (probably) have said that radials on boat trailers came apart because of the shock from rapidly cooling when backed into the water.

I would make sure the trailer's electrical connection to the tow vehicle is unplugged before backing into the water though.

If it is a boat trailer the OEM electrical connection should be waterproof to begin with unless they were replace by someone else that did not use waterproof connection The truck connection needs to have waterproof as swell That is the difference between a marine electrical trailer and truck connection vs a standard trailer and Vehicles electric connection one is
waterproof the other is not.

coal berner wrote:That is the difference between a marine electrical trailer and truck connection vs a standard trailer and Vehicles electric connection one is
waterproof the other is not.

My boat trailer lights have holes in them letting saltwater in and out. I use waterproof wheel bearing grease on the bulbs and sockets and a ground wire to each light. Never had many problems since doing it this way, and carry spare bulbs just in case. And make sure to unplug lights before dunking the trailer in water. Trailer is usually used every weekend

Anybody installed one of these on your dump trailer tailgate?
http://www.truck-traileraccessories.com ... Cat=512E5b

Just trying to make the material handling as easy as possible. I would not be able to dump directly into my bin unfortunatley but could use it to fill 5 gallon buckets with little effort. Just thinking out loud.