i have a alaska gravity fed stove and on the back there is a bi-metal thermostat, I was wondering if this needs to be adjusted and how to do it, as I bought this stove used and the guy I got it from only kept it turned way up with the front drafts open 1/4 . at alaska in bloomsburg they said to use only one of these but if equipped to use the bi-metal one
thanks for any help
Alaska Gravity Fed
thanks, but there is a chain comming from the control at the top of the stove that goes to the flap on the bottom for the draft and I was wondering if the was a calibration for this as it looks like the chain is adjustable and the flap is closed most of the time if I adjusted it to stay open longer I don't want to overfire the stove
thanks for any input
thanks for any input
- LsFarm
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I think the only way to adjust this heat-sensitive air damper is to go ahead and burn for a few days. Watch the action of the damper and bimetal spring, and adjust as needed..
Each instalation is different,, for example, if your chimney typically would pull a strong draft, say .08" wc, an air opening on the damper of say 1/8" may be plenty to supply the fire.. But if your chimney was only pulling a meager .04"wc, then your damper may need 1/4" or 3/8" opening to provide enough air to feed the fire.. The beauty of your temp sensing spring is that it will compensate for these differences, as long as they are not too large of variations..
I'd just go ahead and burn in the stove, with some thermometers on the stove body and flue, and watch the air damper work, if it needs adjustment, you will be able to see the need.
Greg L
Each instalation is different,, for example, if your chimney typically would pull a strong draft, say .08" wc, an air opening on the damper of say 1/8" may be plenty to supply the fire.. But if your chimney was only pulling a meager .04"wc, then your damper may need 1/4" or 3/8" opening to provide enough air to feed the fire.. The beauty of your temp sensing spring is that it will compensate for these differences, as long as they are not too large of variations..
I'd just go ahead and burn in the stove, with some thermometers on the stove body and flue, and watch the air damper work, if it needs adjustment, you will be able to see the need.
Greg L
- LsFarm
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If it isnt working well right now, what does it seem to not be doing?? Slow reaction? Allowing overheating, or ??
Do you have a barometric damper installed and set ?? How tall and what size flue cross section is your chimney?? There is a lot that goes into the 'equation' for a solid fuel burner..
Greg L.
Do you have a barometric damper installed and set ?? How tall and what size flue cross section is your chimney?? There is a lot that goes into the 'equation' for a solid fuel burner..
Greg L.
IT SEEMS TO BE CLOSING MORE THAN I WOULD THINK IT SHOULD , BUT IT WILL OPEN BACK UP AND KEEP THE FIRE GOING.I HAVE TO POKE THE COAL DOWN EVERYDAY AND THEY TOLD ME AT ALASKA MAYBE 2 TIMES A WEEK SO I WAS THINKING THAT MAY BE THE PROBLEM.I HAVE A BAROMETRIC DAMPER AND I AM RUNNING AT .06 WC.MY CHIMNEY IS 25 FOOT BRICK WITH A BRAND NEW INSULATED LINER AND CAP.WHEN I GO DOWN TO CHCK THE STOVE AND IT IS BURNING GREAT AND PUTTING OUT ALOT OF HEAT WITH THE BLOWER I WILL LOOK AND THE FLAP WILL BE CLOSED, IM NEW AT BURNING COAL AND THIS STOVE, SO I WASNT SURE IF THIS SEEMS CORRECT, BUT YOUR FORUM HAS BEEN VERY HELPFULL... I WOULD HAVE PROBABLY GAVE UP AFTER THE FIRST WEEK IF IT WASN'T FOR THE INFO HERE!!!!
THANKS ALOT
THANKS ALOT
- LsFarm
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- Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
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It sounds like it is burning correctly.. having to shake and empty the ashpan every 12-24 hours is normal.. If it is making heat with the damper mostly closed that just means that the coal fire is healthy, and the chimney is drawing well.
If your ashpan vents are open any, this will sort of 'override' the automatic control damper.. I'd try closing down the ash pan vents and watching the auto damper, it should be open more if the other vents are closed.
PLEASE turn off the 'all caps' button on your keyboard.. typing in all caps is considered 'YELLING" ..
Greg L
If your ashpan vents are open any, this will sort of 'override' the automatic control damper.. I'd try closing down the ash pan vents and watching the auto damper, it should be open more if the other vents are closed.
PLEASE turn off the 'all caps' button on your keyboard.. typing in all caps is considered 'YELLING" ..
Greg L
I have an Alaska (without the thermostat) and I also have to poke down the ashes every day. They tend to build up in the corners, and shaking doesn't get them out. I'm starting to wonder if round grates in a square stove is such a good idea. I doubt your thermostat adjustment is contributing to this. (I don't mean to sound negative about the Alaska, I like the stove. It just takes an extra 3 minutes of poking.)