Coal Burned Right up Into the Hopper...
i just got my stove up and running and after about an hour or so I noticed that the ash was not being pushed off the shute into the ash pan and the fire burned right up into the hopper and started burning the coal while it was still in the hopper. I caught it pretty quick I was still able to touch the hopper. now what I don't under stand is the automatic feeder was working and moving. could I have started the fire too far back or used too much coal to start it?????
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what kind of stove, sounds like your feed rate is not adjusted as well as your baro damper is not set correctly
- WNY
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Yup, too much draft.
Doesn't matter where you start your fire, it should burn up what's on the grate and continue to feed until it has ashes at the end.
Did you set your Baro Damper Correctly with your PV from you other posting and check it with a draft gauge.?
Did you have enough coal in your hopper and not have it really low on coal?
Doesn't matter where you start your fire, it should burn up what's on the grate and continue to feed until it has ashes at the end.
Did you set your Baro Damper Correctly with your PV from you other posting and check it with a draft gauge.?
Did you have enough coal in your hopper and not have it really low on coal?
the stove is a old alaska kodiak it looks like the kast console. the hopper was 3/4 full. no I do not have a baro on it. I am going to pick 1 up either today on my way home or sometime tomorrow. so once I get the baro on it it should be ok as long as I set it right?
- Rick 386
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Scarecrow,
I sent you a PM (private message accessed at the top of the page)
Anyway, member crochunisclan (Dave) had the same issues as you seem to be having when he purchased his Alaska stove. He ended up undoing all of the previous wiring as it was incorrect and also had to replace ALL of the gaskets to finally get his working properly. He first started with a hopper fire as you have. His P.V. was wired incorrectly and then it was running full bore causing too much draft. A rheostat on the PV, correct baro and manometer really helped.
Here is the whole thread that pretty much covers it all. Alaska Channing III Need Help Very Nervous
Read through it and see if this helps.
Rick
I sent you a PM (private message accessed at the top of the page)
Anyway, member crochunisclan (Dave) had the same issues as you seem to be having when he purchased his Alaska stove. He ended up undoing all of the previous wiring as it was incorrect and also had to replace ALL of the gaskets to finally get his working properly. He first started with a hopper fire as you have. His P.V. was wired incorrectly and then it was running full bore causing too much draft. A rheostat on the PV, correct baro and manometer really helped.
Here is the whole thread that pretty much covers it all. Alaska Channing III Need Help Very Nervous
Read through it and see if this helps.
Rick
- Flyer5
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\scarecrow wrote:the stove is a old alaska kodiak it looks like the kast console. the hopper was 3/4 full. no I do not have a baro on it. I am going to pick 1 up either today on my way home or sometime tomorrow. so once I get the baro on it it should be ok as long as I set it right?
Make sure the back of the grates are sealed properly there is a reinforced gasket that goes in the back . If air blows up behind the grate it will cause the fire to move backwards up into the hopper .Maybe use some furnace cement as well along the edge before pressing the grate in . Dave
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That would be the strongback gasket. There should also be a gasket all the way around the bottom of the grate where it sets. When I bought my stove it didn't have any of the gaskets in it and I was looking over one at the Alaska showroom and realized that they were missing. So, I just took the guy that I needed all the gaskets and asked him to show me what they were and where they went. These stoves are sealed up pretty tight compared to the older hand fired stoves.
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i'm the guy rick was talking about. i'm here to help if you need it. we have alot of experience with hopper fires here!