First Burn - Alaska Channing III
Did a test this morning and cranked it up to 3 on the feed rate. outside temp 28 . The coals was almost 1 from the end of the grate. The temps. scared my wife. Stove temp on left side 400 + with magnectic thermo. Used fluke meter almost 385. Stack 18'' from top of stove 270. Convection fan on HI , temp 5 ft from stove 106.
I would assume on a single degree day or 0 you might use # 3. The brute is a heat machine and a little scary ! Seems between 1.5 and 2.0 work well.
Any input appericiated. ken
I would assume on a single degree day or 0 you might use # 3. The brute is a heat machine and a little scary ! Seems between 1.5 and 2.0 work well.
Any input appericiated. ken
- jacknanticoke
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- Joined: Mon. Mar. 09, 2009 4:41 pm
- Location: Hunlock Creek, PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
My channing constantly runs at 3. I can't turn it down to 2.5 or lower because my CO detector goes off. I have the stove in my cellar (living room) and I average about 78 to 80 down there. I run a single duct upstairs (have a one story ranch house) and its about 65-68 on a 20 degree day. When it gets down lower, I turn it up to 3.5.
I have an outside chimney that rises above the house. I envy you guys that can turn it down to idle or 1. I wish I could, but it seems my draft isn't good enough. I am getting a manometer to check things out.
I have an outside chimney that rises above the house. I envy you guys that can turn it down to idle or 1. I wish I could, but it seems my draft isn't good enough. I am getting a manometer to check things out.
- Ed.A
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III/ '94 Stoker II
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
Really? wow that's a bummer. Last weekend for instance it was high 50's touching 60 deg's I set to 1.5 never added coal til monday morning. I'm no expert on flues but that seems odd that you don't pull draft until your above idle, not to mention a bit scary with CO drafting back into your living area.jacknanticoke wrote:My channing constantly runs at 3. I can't turn it down to 2.5 or lower because my CO detector goes off. I have the stove in my cellar (living room) and I average about 78 to 80 down there. I run a single duct upstairs (have a one story ranch house) and its about 65-68 on a 20 degree day. When it gets down lower, I turn it up to 3.5.
I have an outside chimney that rises above the house. I envy you guys that can turn it down to idle or 1. I wish I could, but it seems my draft isn't good enough. I am getting a manometer to check things out.
- jacknanticoke
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- Joined: Mon. Mar. 09, 2009 4:41 pm
- Location: Hunlock Creek, PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
Yeah I know. When it was 60 I moved the feed rate down to about 2.5 and I smelled a hint of sulfur. Then later the wife calls me at work and tells me the alarm is going off.
In the first month I fired it up, this is my first year burning by the way, we had some warm days and I turned it down to 2 and a few hours later, the alarm went off. However, one night in December, I was changing my ashes and turned down the feed to 0 so nothing would drop while I had the pan out. I forgot to turn it backup and it was cold as hell in the morning, but the CO detector never went off. The flame was real low, but still there. Wierd why it would do it at 2 an 2.5 but didn't at 0.
I've cleaned the flue pipe with my shop vac a few times over the burn season, but haven't actually shut it down to do real hard-line cleaning. Maybe its a buildup of flyash that I can't get to. I will see when I shut it down.
I was told by the installed that going lower than 2 could cause a backup due to the chimney getting cold and losing draft. This is what seems to happen.
In the first month I fired it up, this is my first year burning by the way, we had some warm days and I turned it down to 2 and a few hours later, the alarm went off. However, one night in December, I was changing my ashes and turned down the feed to 0 so nothing would drop while I had the pan out. I forgot to turn it backup and it was cold as hell in the morning, but the CO detector never went off. The flame was real low, but still there. Wierd why it would do it at 2 an 2.5 but didn't at 0.
I've cleaned the flue pipe with my shop vac a few times over the burn season, but haven't actually shut it down to do real hard-line cleaning. Maybe its a buildup of flyash that I can't get to. I will see when I shut it down.
I was told by the installed that going lower than 2 could cause a backup due to the chimney getting cold and losing draft. This is what seems to happen.
- Ed.A
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- Joined: Thu. Aug. 30, 2007 7:27 pm
- Location: Canterbury Ct.
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III/ '94 Stoker II
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
I doubt that very much, from your pic it looks like you have a pretty normal pipe run, if your doing a vacuum clean a few times that would basically take that out as a problem. I've a triple bend and runs pretty horizontal and I've never had build up in an entire season that would clog it to the point of back draft.jacknanticoke wrote:I've cleaned the flue pipe with my shop vac a few times over the burn season, but haven't actually shut it down to do real hard-line cleaning. Maybe its a buildup of flyash that I can't get to. I will see when I shut it down.
True, the cold chimney will cause that but odd that once you've created draft and running warm air it seems it should maintain it. Like I said I'm no expert on that but I know some start their stokers using a Blow Dryer in the Baro to get the draft going.jacknanticoke wrote: I was told by the installed that going lower than 2 could cause a backup due to the chimney getting cold and losing draft. This is what seems to happen.
Another question, whats your stove temp using a magnetic thermostat on the side at #3? just curious. The controllers are not calibrated all that consistantly.
- jacknanticoke
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- Joined: Mon. Mar. 09, 2009 4:41 pm
- Location: Hunlock Creek, PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
My pic can be decieving. the pipe you are seeing is my duct for heating. It goes straight up. directly behind that is the flue for the exhaust. You can barely see the baro sticking out. The pipe comes out of the stone for about an inch, connects to the baro and make a sharp downturn right after the baro.
I can stick my shop-vac hose through the baro and down the pipe towards the chimney no prob. when I try to go the other way, it only goes to the bend, which isn't far. So I never actually get down past the bend. I did stick the hose on my two slits inside the stove in an attempt to suck it out that way too.
I am getting a thermometer today and will let you know the temp later tonight. I am curious about that too. Maybe this weekend I will turn it down to idle and see what happens and if my CO detector goes off. Its going to be 55 here. Idle is 0 on the dial right?
Jack
I can stick my shop-vac hose through the baro and down the pipe towards the chimney no prob. when I try to go the other way, it only goes to the bend, which isn't far. So I never actually get down past the bend. I did stick the hose on my two slits inside the stove in an attempt to suck it out that way too.
I am getting a thermometer today and will let you know the temp later tonight. I am curious about that too. Maybe this weekend I will turn it down to idle and see what happens and if my CO detector goes off. Its going to be 55 here. Idle is 0 on the dial right?
Jack
- jacknanticoke
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
Ok. Got a Rutland stove thermometer and here are my first readings with the stove a little under 3 on the feed control:
Top side of stove near front: 350'
Flue about six inches up from stove: 200'
Flue about an inch after baro: 150'
Does this look right?
Top side of stove near front: 350'
Flue about six inches up from stove: 200'
Flue about an inch after baro: 150'
Does this look right?
- Ed.A
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- Location: Canterbury Ct.
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III/ '94 Stoker II
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
Actually....yeah.jacknanticoke wrote:Ok. Got a Rutland stove thermometer and here are my first readings with the stove a little under 3 on the feed control:
Top side of stove near front: 350'
Flue about six inches up from stove: 200'
Flue about an inch after baro: 150'
Does this look right?
Now, about your "ZERO" idle setting, maybe maybe not. At "Zero" on mine it would be out. #1 or a tad lower would be just a pencil thick line on mine. That's what I mean by not being calibrated to each stove, close but not exactly the same.
Still, your smack dab in the ball park as best I can tell.
- jacknanticoke
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
What should I see temperature wise at idle? Is there anything that is too low or is there a temp that I should be aiming for on all three areas for idle?
I haven't checked my temps at idle but I get about the same as what you posted above when I am at two, two and a half. And at about .5, I have only a thin line of burning coal. I suspect it's as Ed suggested - a calibration issue on the rheostat.
I wouldn't worry much about your idle temps. As long as you can still maintain a fire and keep a safe draft you can go as low as you want. The less coal you burn at idle the better. I think I maintain about 1/2"-3/4" of burning coal and a draft of approx. -.015 at idle on a warmer day and -.025 on colder days. My min. draft should be -.02 according to my manual, but I have never had a CO problem where its set now. I don't think I will try to go any lower for safety reasons.jacknanticoke wrote:What should I see temperature wise at idle? Is there anything that is too low or is there a temp that I should be aiming for on all three areas for idle?
Jeff
- jacknanticoke
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- Location: Hunlock Creek, PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
Yeah, I saw in another post that the rheostats are off. I read that you need to take the knob off, turn it to zero and put the knob back on actually pointing at zero. Mine points at 1 when I get all the way over. So I guess my readings are the same as ed's when he is at 2 - 2.5.tvb wrote: I suspect it's as Ed suggested - a calibration issue on the rheostat.
As far as a safe draft goes, what would you consider a safe draft?
- Ed.A
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III/ '94 Stoker II
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
Jack seriously, any level that doesn't cause CO to back up into your house. That is not a joke.....really, I'm starting to get a bit concerned. Have that draft issue checked ASAP, then we can all relax.jacknanticoke wrote: As far as a safe draft goes, what would you consider a safe draft?
- jacknanticoke
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- Location: Hunlock Creek, PA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
I am just got my dwyer 25 manometer in today and mounted it. Its filled and adjusted to zero, I just have to get the brake line to install it. I will keep you guys updated. For now, the stove is staying at 2.75 / 3 until I get a draft reading. Thanks for all your help.Ed.A wrote:Jack seriously, any level that doesn't cause CO to back up into your house. That is not a joke.....really, I'm starting to get a bit concerned. Have that draft issue checked ASAP, then we can all relax.jacknanticoke wrote: As far as a safe draft goes, what would you consider a safe draft?
Jack
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- Location: Western MA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
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Rather than brake line, I installed some copper tubing I bought at the local Ace Hardware store. Unfortunately, it comes in a 10' box and all I needed was about a foot and a half! I figure if one of my coal-fired co-workers wants to install a mano, I'll give it to them!
The reason I used the Ace Hardware tubing was so that I could 'mount' it into the chimney. I bought a double compression-fitting 'joiner' and installed that into the chimney flue. On the inside, I didn't put the compression ring in, and used the 'nut' portion to secure the fitting to the chimney. Then it was a simple matter to tighten the compression fitting with my tubing attached on the outside. Another compression fitting and a 'converter' to for the rubber tubing connection from the mano was all I needed. Works like a charm!
The reason I used the Ace Hardware tubing was so that I could 'mount' it into the chimney. I bought a double compression-fitting 'joiner' and installed that into the chimney flue. On the inside, I didn't put the compression ring in, and used the 'nut' portion to secure the fitting to the chimney. Then it was a simple matter to tighten the compression fitting with my tubing attached on the outside. Another compression fitting and a 'converter' to for the rubber tubing connection from the mano was all I needed. Works like a charm!