18" From Sheetrock Wall, but the Wall Is VERY Hot.

 
MidnightMadman
Member
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon. Nov. 17, 2008 8:28 pm
Location: Hudson Valley, NY

Post by MidnightMadman » Sun. Dec. 14, 2008 11:12 pm

rockwood wrote:How big is the room with this stove in it?
Does the room get quite hot, like above 80 degrees?

If the stove is in a small room, alcove etc. that doesn't let the hot air circulate (away) from the stove will result in everything being hotter than it should be.
Its in my finished basement.. about 800 sq feet.


 
User avatar
coal berner
Member
Posts: 3600
Joined: Tue. Jan. 09, 2007 12:44 am
Location: Pottsville PA. Schuylkill County PA. The Hart Of Anthracite Coal Country.
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF

Post by coal berner » Sun. Dec. 14, 2008 11:15 pm

MidnightMadman wrote:
coal berner wrote: Mid Does your SCR have the heat shield on the back with the heat shield on the back the clearance is 18" for the back of stove and 19" from Flue Pipe. Sides of stove is 20" Flue Pipe is 30" If not the stove should be 36" away from anything that can catch fire does you sheet rock have paper on it. Paper starts to burn at 319F. If you see it start to turn brown it is getting to hot. If you use Millboard Or Equivalent 8" Clearance for back & sides Front of stove should be 16" Look at
the 8th post on the link below. You can download The Gibraltar Manual if you do not have one. Look in section E for Clearances.

Gibraltar Stove
Yes it has a shield that is off the stove 1". Heres a picture.
StoveRear 001.jpg
StoveRear 003.jpg
Why is the coal banking bar laying on the floor behind the stove. :lol: It should be in the stove up front behind the loading door.You will beable to stick more coal in the stove with it in there. If it is a Extra one would you like to sell it .

 
kootch88
Member
Posts: 483
Joined: Sun. Sep. 28, 2008 8:35 pm
Location: Raymond, Maine
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Post by kootch88 » Sun. Dec. 14, 2008 11:21 pm

MM. it looks to me like you have no heat protection on the wall itself. That is what we are talking about for wall protection. If what I am seeing is correct, you still have moulding on the wall and no heat protection on your wall. Is that correct?

 
User avatar
gambler
Member
Posts: 1611
Joined: Mon. Jan. 29, 2007 12:02 pm
Location: western Pa

Post by gambler » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 12:00 am

kootch88 wrote:MM. it looks to me like you have no heat protection on the wall itself. That is what we are talking about for wall protection. If what I am seeing is correct, you still have moulding on the wall and no heat protection on your wall. Is that correct?
That means 18" from a NON COMBUSTIBLE surface. Is the sheetrock beyond the protection what is hot or the sheetrock behind the protective barrier hot?
If you look at page 9 of the manual it states "look at the plate on the stove to get clearance to combustibles and in this case his stove says 18"

Attachments

GibraltorManual[1].pdf
.PDF | 1.1MB | GibraltorManual[1].pdf

 
User avatar
rockwood
Member
Posts: 1381
Joined: Sun. Sep. 21, 2008 7:37 pm
Location: Utah
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Stokermatic
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Rockwood Stoveworks Circulator
Baseburners & Antiques: Malleable/Monarch Range
Coal Size/Type: Lump and stoker + Blaschak-stove size

Post by rockwood » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 12:06 am

rockwood wrote:From reading the manual for your stove it looks like 18" is correct. Is your wall behind the stove too hot to hold your hand on?
That's the way I took it also.

Midnight, check your PMs.

 
MidnightMadman
Member
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon. Nov. 17, 2008 8:28 pm
Location: Hudson Valley, NY

Post by MidnightMadman » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 7:54 am

Why is the coal banking bar laying on the floor behind the stove. :lol: It should be in the stove up front behind the loading door.You will beable to stick more coal in the stove with it in there. If it is a Extra one would you like to sell it .[/quote]

That banking plate is now in the stove. It is warped and has a bow to it, it still works. I just didnt put it in when I got the thing fired up yesterday.
I am wondering if I can fit more coal without it though?

 
MidnightMadman
Member
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon. Nov. 17, 2008 8:28 pm
Location: Hudson Valley, NY

Post by MidnightMadman » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 7:55 am

rockwood wrote:
rockwood wrote:From reading the manual for your stove it looks like 18" is correct. Is your wall behind the stove too hot to hold your hand on?
That's the way I took it also.

Midnight, check your PMs.
ok. guys. so technically I am safe according the the stove specs. I may look into some kind of brick or something for the wall anyway.


 
ken
Member
Posts: 1259
Joined: Sat. Apr. 21, 2007 11:35 pm
Location: thompson , ohio

Post by ken » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 9:13 am

Freddy's idea sounds like the way to go. My keystoker manual says 12" from the sides. I have the stove at an angle and the rear corner is (was) 12". The wall was very hot to the touch. I moved the corner 18" away , now it's just warm. So much for the manual.

 
User avatar
gambler
Member
Posts: 1611
Joined: Mon. Jan. 29, 2007 12:02 pm
Location: western Pa

Post by gambler » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 9:20 am

ken wrote:Freddy's idea sounds like the way to go. My keystoker manual says 12" from the sides. I have the stove at an angle and the rear corner is (was) 12". The wall was very hot to the touch. I moved the corner 18" away , now it's just warm. So much for the manual.
I agree. I would still put something on the wall.

 
User avatar
eelhc
Member
Posts: 204
Joined: Sat. Oct. 25, 2008 9:02 pm

Post by eelhc » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 11:11 am

Screw a piece of Durock on the wall... Maybe with some spacers between it and the sheetrock so air can get back there to cool. It can probably made to look nice enough make it permanent.

BTW... given all your trouble installing and lighting this stove.. I think you might just be the most resilient dude I've run into yet here (of course, I've only been here for ~2 months).

 
JIMTORL
Member
Posts: 27
Joined: Fri. Mar. 07, 2008 12:56 pm

Post by JIMTORL » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 12:52 pm

You should not let the dry-wall get too hot. It can turn back to powder.If you exceed 150 degrees for an extended peroid of time it damages the drywall by causing a reaction the drive the H2O molucules out
My guess the wall is Type X not Fire code C and there is a difference with these 2 types. Fire code C is designed to take heat for a longer time before it degrades. With fire test Fire Code C will burn thru in just less than a hour and is rarely used in residential construction. Type X can burn thru in around 20 min. and is almost allways used in residential.
Like eelhc said I would put Durarock cement board or some other protective board up that will not degrade with heat to protect the wall.

 
MidnightMadman
Member
Posts: 260
Joined: Mon. Nov. 17, 2008 8:28 pm
Location: Hudson Valley, NY

Post by MidnightMadman » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 1:45 pm

The guy I bought the stove from had some nice rock work that was heat resistant. He said he bought it at a local store but they told me they don't sell it.
I locks together and looks like gray stone... anyone know what it is or where I can find it?

 
User avatar
tvb
Member
Posts: 1055
Joined: Sun. Dec. 02, 2007 8:13 pm

Post by tvb » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 3:50 pm

Any type of rock (well, with one minor exception) is fire resistant. You probably want to take the advice of those who wrote about leaving a space. You could mount the rock or manufactured rock on a board, put a nice edge on it and put that up using spacers.

 
User avatar
coalkirk
Member
Posts: 5185
Joined: Wed. May. 17, 2006 8:12 pm
Location: Forest Hill MD
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 EFM DF520 retired
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507 on standby
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite/rice coal

Post by coalkirk » Mon. Dec. 15, 2008 5:19 pm

I wouldn't worry about the drywall but the heat transfers right thorugh the drywall to the studs. That's the concern.

 
hyway61
Member
Posts: 51
Joined: Sun. Oct. 12, 2008 2:48 pm

Post by hyway61 » Wed. Dec. 17, 2008 8:40 am

I looked at some of the optional shields sold by Morso and Harman and decided to fashion my own from sheet metal. My shield covers the back of the stove and bends ard the left and right sides...and it comes over the top tilting forward. It rest on the mantle behind the stove and is about two inches clearance from the stove on all clearances. I haven't attached it to the stove yet, but might not to faciltate cleaning up operations. Works very well and reflects and projects heat forward for about 18$... Apparently, Ok as approved by the decorating commisar of the house, too... :)

..hyway61


Post Reply

Return to “Hand Fired Coal Stoves & Furnaces Using Anthracite”