Help with over heating my New Yorker WC-130

Help with over heating my New Yorker WC-130

PostBy: Wood2008 On: Mon Dec 15, 2008 8:49 pm

Hey guys, I am new at this and had a New Yorker WC-130 installed in our house just recently and started burning anthracite Kimmel's nut-size coal for the past two weeks. This system is hooked up the radiant heat that is heating the entire house. Last night in the middle of the night my wife woke me up stating she was hearing noise from the basement (same thing happened two weeks ago). When I got downstairs, steam and water was every where in the basement and the heat on the thermometer on the stove indicated 265 degrees F. Two weeks before it was indicating 270 degrees F. I am wondering what am I doing wrong? I had the vent opened about 3/4 of an inch wide... maybe that is too much. I had only put in about 3-4 small shovels-full of coal before going to bed and the temp was around 175 degrees F at that time (which is what it ran all day yesterday). Any danger with overheating the unit? Maybe I need a bigger dump zone. Right now I am running three 8-feet baseboards. Any suggestions/help would be much appreciated. Alain
Stove/Furnace Make: New Yorker

Visit Hitzer Stoves

Re: Help with over heating my New Yorker WC-130

PostBy: djackman On: Mon Dec 15, 2008 9:25 pm

There are a several other threads on this boiler, and this same issue, use the "search" box on the top right corner for "new yorker"

Bought A LEMON
new yorker wc-90 add on boiler

In the interest of saving you some searching....

Do you have a Barometric damper that is set properly?

Can you verify your forced draft fan is cutting off at the set temperature on the aquastat?

Closing down the draft adjustment can help, along with adding/using Pea sized coal to help slow down the burn.
Stove/Furnace Make: 1980 vintage Tarm
Stove/Furnace Model: FT22 (aka 202) installed!

Re: Help with over heating my New Yorker WC-130

PostBy: LsFarm On: Mon Dec 15, 2008 9:38 pm

You need to think through the controls on the boiler. When the aquastat calls for heat, does it turn on a combustion fan? Or do you only have natural draft for combustion air?
You must have a barometric damper.. without one, you never know when the chimney draft can increase because of wind or temperatures, and the added draft pulls more air through the fire, increasing heat and overheating your water.

An aquastat needs to be able to shut off most of the air to the fire, otherwise it is NOT in control of the water temp.

You need to keep track of the wind, temperature, the chimney draft [a manometer gauge] and then adjust your manual combustion air control. Unless you have some automatic features using the aquastat, YOU are the controler and it can be complicated, I'd write down all the parameters I listed and the air setting you used,, so you can refer back and see what worked or didn't work.

Most boilers that are hand fed, but have aquastat controls have a combustion fan, or a motorized air flap that controls the air through the coal bed.. without this type of control, the fire is OUT of control..

AHS uses a combustion fan with a motorized flap over the intake of the fan,, the aquastat first opens the flap, then starts the fan, reaching target water temp, it reverses the process..

Hope this helps.
Greg L
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland