Mark II baffle plate

Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: cowentz On: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:18 pm

Is it possible to fix a baffle plate for a mark II. I found one for $300 with a ton of coal.
cowentz
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark II

Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: Uglysquirrel On: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:47 pm

what is wrong with the baffle plate?
Uglysquirrel
 
Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono

Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: cowentz On: Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:09 pm

it is warped and eaten away. I am deciding if I should buy the stove or not. It is an older 3 window mark II. Grates might be slightly warped but look usuable. It needs a coat of paint, and the top baffle plate looks like it would need repaired. It is $300 and comes with a ton of nut coal.
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cowentz
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark II

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Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: Uglysquirrel On: Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:47 pm

hummmm, there are more experienced people here though my first put is that to do this we're talking a consistent overfire over several months/years. I would look at the welds inside, clean them off with a wire brush and do a high lumen white light inspection. Also remove the bricks, same white light inspect.

Can't comment on the grates except some overfire that matches the baffle. Only question I have is do overfired grates like this have some potential to crack more ? Grates are something like $ 150 each I think.

Me, I kinda want something that is not abused in my home. Just me.
Uglysquirrel
 
Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono

Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: CapeCoaler On: Wed Dec 17, 2008 12:09 am

You get what you pay for.
Any piece of equipment that was mistreated by its previous owner will cost you more in repairs than buying a properly priced well cared for or even a new piece.
The person selling the stove is getting the coal removed for free, disposing of an old busted stove and $300 in their pocket.
There will be a bunch of used good stoves for sale soon if oil stays at $2.
CapeCoaler
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove

Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: Wood'nCoal On: Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:24 am

Pass on the stove, offer to buy the coal for a low price (don't forget you have to shovel it out).
Wood'nCoal
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: TimV On: Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:34 am

If this deal was anywhere close to me I would grab it.
$300 for stove and a ton...
:idea: Doing the math I figure thats $38 Bucks less than I can buy a delivered ton.
Remember anything can be fixed.... :D "the only limitation is your pocketbook"
If its still around call and price the parts you think it needs.
I bet you got a lot of PM's asking where its at if you dont want it.
TimV
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Energy King Furnace
Stove/Furnace Model: 480 EK

Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: LsFarm On: Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:38 am

The baffle plate itself is not a 'high tech' item, it just diverts the air flow around inside the stove.. BUT it is welded to the two sides and back,, the expansion and contraction of the baffle plate HAS on at least one member's stove caused cracking in the side plates of the stove.

So take a close look at the sides of the stove where the baffle is welded in place.. look on the outside to see if there is a bulge or depression where the welds are and a fine hair-line crack. If there is not any visible deformation or crack, the next issue is the [maybe] warped grates.

To check the grates, with the firebox empty, move the shaker handle full travel both ways.. the grates should not bind against each other or the sides.. if they do, then new grates are in order, and a set of grates will cost as much or more than the stove..

If you don't see any cracks, and the grates move freely,, and you are handy or have a friend who is handy and can weld any possible missed cracks.. I'd say yo could gamble on the stove and coal.. Depending on where you and this stove are located, $300 may be what a ton of coal costs, and if you can get by with the stove for this season, then over the summer you can repair/rebuild the stove to near-new condition.

If the stove is safe, no cracks, and functional, shaker grates functional, It's a reasonable gamble. Most stoves in pristine condiiton will be around $1000 + right now.

Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Wed Dec 17, 2008 10:52 am

I would go over the stove's walls with a welder's picking hammer. If they are solid, the deal is a steal. Like Greg said, the baffle is not a big deal. You can replace it or run it as is and save money. Just make sure the doors seal well and everything is solid.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: titleist1 On: Wed Dec 17, 2008 2:02 pm

I had a baffle plate warp on my Mark III. I think it was from the plate flaking away over the years (used 15 years) and not being able to handle normal temps any longer, but that is just a guess on my part. Maybe that was the case with the Mark II you are looking at also, if so then the grates may be fine as mine were. I am a lot more thorough about vacuuming the fly ash off the top of that plate at the end of the season. It's a bear to get the nozzle up in that space, I usually get it twisted and stuck at least once.


Like Greg said, really look hard at the outside of the sides where the baffle plate is welded. This is where the cracks occurred on mine. They were very hard to see, but they did leak exhaust when the stove was running. The cracks on mine followed the weld bead on each side of the stove. If the sides are not cracked you could probably cut out the baffle plate and weld a replacement and be up and running. If the stove can be repaired just by updating the plate then the $300 is a good price for the stove and coal.


If the plate is really degraded from flaking away (I remember how mine looked) I would be hesitant about running it as is since it may warp more and cause damage to the sides. Others on here would probably have a more educated opinion on how the degraded baffle would react to the heat, my opinion is just a gut feeling.
titleist1
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Harman Mag Stoker (old style) one in basement, one in workshop
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark III on standby for long power outages
Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite; Nut/Anthracite

Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: cowentz On: Wed Dec 17, 2008 8:19 pm

Thanks for all the information. I think I am going to pass on this stove. If it just needed grates, a coat of paint, and maybe door gaskets I would get it, but I don't want to have to mess with the baffle. I still need to get a metal chimney to put up so I do not need a stove right now. Worse case is if I get my chimney and still didn't find a stove I can get my dad's old wood stove that is just sitting in the garage. That is until I find a coal stove. Again thanks for the help!
cowentz
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Mark II

Re: Mark II baffle plate

PostBy: Rampant Lion On: Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:13 am

Hi all, the stove is sitting in my cellar burning beauteously right now! I couldn't pass up the buy. I burnt a Harman mkll 12 years ago and had nothing but good luck with it. Was presently burning a surdiac I had picked up as a stop gap till I got my new stoker, but am thinking of sticking with the hand bomber and saving the cash. I learned a long time ago that good buys have to be bought NOW. Simply replaced the fire bricks $22.00, bought $15.00 of smoke pipe, a barometric damper, moved her in, small bag of match light charcoal and viola, a nice cozy fire....... : :D
Rampant Lion
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman sf160
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman MKll

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