Ideas for Circulation Fan for My Alaska Kodiak Stoker

Post Reply
 
arcticcatmatt
Member
Posts: 320
Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
Location: Montour Falls NY

Post by arcticcatmatt » Thu. Dec. 18, 2008 1:56 pm

Hey gang,

I looked a few other stoves in operation this week. They blow a lot more air than my unit. Even on high, my does not blow much. I want to change it out to something more powerful. Anyone on here done it? What did you use? I am hoping to find something that fits right in there. Perhaps one that also is longer so it takes up more than the 30% that it does right now.
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**

 
User avatar
Rick 386
Member
Posts: 2508
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Contact:

Post by Rick 386 » Thu. Dec. 18, 2008 3:23 pm

Matt,

The easiest thing that you could do would be to make a piece of duct to fit across that entire top rear opening and then convert it to what ever fan you would want to install. Then remake your front collector again covering the entire front opening.

That fan that is on the hopper is only blowing the heat from the top of the stove. You are not getting anything from the sides. That was why I had built the jacket for mine.
Alaska Stoker II.01.jpg
.JPG | 97.9KB | Alaska Stoker II.01.jpg
Alaska Stoker II.02.jpg
.JPG | 95KB | Alaska Stoker II.02.jpg
Rick

 
arcticcatmatt
Member
Posts: 320
Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
Location: Montour Falls NY

Post by arcticcatmatt » Thu. Dec. 18, 2008 3:29 pm

^ Loving the jacket and blowers!

At the moment, I am not going to take heat from the sides, that is heating my basement. I want to take all the heat from the top of the stove that I can and crank it up the vent going upstairs. My little contraption is "working" but it could be working much much better. It is 30 out and its keeping the upstairs at 70 and burning 30 lbs a day ish.

But when it gets 20 out.. well then the upstairs drops to 66-68. So I want to try moving more of that top heat off the stove.

 
User avatar
Rick 386
Member
Posts: 2508
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
Location: Royersford, Pa
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Contact:

Post by Rick 386 » Thu. Dec. 18, 2008 4:24 pm

Matt,

Using something like my setup you could use the jackets to plumb into your ductwork. Keep the existing fan on the hopper to heat the basement. The jacket fans run independently from the tri burner set up. Put them on their own rheostat control.

Rick


 
Matthaus
Member
Posts: 1923
Joined: Mon. Oct. 02, 2006 8:59 am
Location: Berwick, PA and Ormand Beach FL

Post by Matthaus » Thu. Dec. 18, 2008 8:49 pm

I have sold three of your model stove with the blower in the link below, you can find them on ebay for around $50 to $70. They are ideal for basement operated stove since the dual squirrel cage can be pulling air both from the house upstairs and from the basement.

 
arcticcatmatt
Member
Posts: 320
Joined: Wed. Sep. 10, 2008 10:22 pm
Location: Montour Falls NY

Post by arcticcatmatt » Thu. Dec. 18, 2008 10:35 pm

Rick 386 wrote:Matt,

Using something like my setup you could use the jackets to plumb into your ductwork. Keep the existing fan on the hopper to heat the basement. The jacket fans run independently from the tri burner set up. Put them on their own rheostat control.
The only ductwork I have is the air going up to a register that I just put in. I am thinking/wondering if just taking all the heat from the top of the stove that I can would be enough to heat my upstairs (1150 sq feet ranch). I could do the jacket and suck all the heat upstairs but I am worried that no heat would go into my basement. How much of your heat does not make it up the ductwork?
Matthaus wrote:I have sold three of your model stove with the blower in the link below, you can find them on ebay for around $50 to $70. They are ideal for basement operated stove since the dual squirrel cage can be pulling air both from the house upstairs and from the basement.
I would love more information on that "turnbuckle" mod. I am just adjusting the lobe at the moment with the dial on full blast. I understand, but the girlfriend does not. It's not user friendly for her, she gets confused what way to turn it.

It looks like that blower set up is blasting straight down onto the top of the stove. Interesting. I could do that and seal off the back of the stove, it looks like the stove in your picture has that area open still. It seems to be the same type of design that Rick did but he put them into the side of his heat jacket.

 
Matthaus
Member
Posts: 1923
Joined: Mon. Oct. 02, 2006 8:59 am
Location: Berwick, PA and Ormand Beach FL

Post by Matthaus » Thu. Dec. 18, 2008 10:53 pm

arcticcatmatt wrote:I would love more information on that "turnbuckle" mod. I am just adjusting the lobe at the moment with the dial on full blast. I understand, but the girlfriend does not. It's not user friendly for her, she gets confused what way to turn it.
The rod end and turnbuckle mod is not really any more user friendly, it is actually better suited to the Coal-Trol mod since you never have to adjust it. I replace the stock Alaska mechanisms on all the stoves I sell because their desing insults my engineering sensibilities. :lol: I would stick with your threaded rod for how you are running the stove. :)
arcticcatmatt wrote:It looks like that blower set up is blasting straight down onto the top of the stove. Interesting. I could do that and seal off the back of the stove, it looks like the stove in your picture has that area open still. It seems to be the same type of design that Rick did but he put them into the side of his heat jacket.
It works better to leave both front and back open because it seems to more fully wash the heat off the top of the stove. If you were to use a duct to push heat up stairs you could seal off both front and back and cut a hole in the top for duct to connect to. That would leave plenty of radian heat off the sides of the stove for your basement.

And the science project continues. :D

Post Reply

Return to “Stoker Coal Furnaces & Stoves Using Anthracite (Hot Air)”