I wasn't expecting to post until I re-connected the fan, but there is something that is just not logical to me.
If the boiler is 225* the thermostat is set at 72* why would the house be 62* in the morning. This just doesn't make any sense to me.
Controling Temperature
The boiler isn't making enough heat to satisfy the load. Water temp is what you should be concerned about.
This is exactly why you need the fan to work.
Heat loss in the house increased (colder temp outside/windy), boiler could not keep up with the demand automatically since it had no way to increase the amount of air to the fire.
This is exactly why you need the fan to work.
Heat loss in the house increased (colder temp outside/windy), boiler could not keep up with the demand automatically since it had no way to increase the amount of air to the fire.
Can't really say without seeing a diagram of how it's wired.
If you want/need a low-limit it should be the 6006A on the WC, not the 8124 on the old oil burner. Otherwise the WC will have to warm up the old oil burner before the circ comes on.
Pretty sure someone sent you the link to manual for your WC, wire it to those diagrams first then add "options".
If you want/need a low-limit it should be the 6006A on the WC, not the 8124 on the old oil burner. Otherwise the WC will have to warm up the old oil burner before the circ comes on.
Pretty sure someone sent you the link to manual for your WC, wire it to those diagrams first then add "options".
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coaledsweat
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Are the TT terminals at the top left of that L8124A connected to the L6006B on your coal boiler? Something isn't right there, is that 110V power to the TT terminals?slabadie wrote:djackman
Does the L8124A play any role other than controling the low end of the circ?
Looks like there's a bridge rectifier in that pic, converting the control transformer AC to DC.slabadie wrote:No, the TT's are connected to the 24V transformer.
First - I'm not a plumber or HVAC engineer, somewhere between homeowner and plumber but with a lot of electronics and embedded systems experience. knowledge. I'm making comments based on what I know from the 3 boiler systems I maintain. There's probably more than one way to set this up and have it work fine. The way I usually do it is the thermostats control the valves and the integral switches in the zone valves control the circulator(s).
IIRC you have zone valves - are they 4 wire, with a switch in them that closes (turns on) when the valve is open? Do you have one or multiple circulators?
If I'm interpreting your pictures and words correctly the W terminal on the 6006A connected to C1 on the 8124 is (probably) turning on the circulator when the WC gets up to temp. You then circulate from the WC to the oil boiler. Once the oil boiler comes up to temp the 8124 low-limit would be satisfied and redundantly turn on the circ if there is a call for heat. You won't get circulation on a call for heat if the water temp is below the 8124 low limit AND the 6006A low limit. I think
????? You might want to draw this out on paper to get a better idea of what's controlling what. (or at least the people reading this thread)
Seems it would be a LOT simpler if just the WC aquastats and your thermostats controlled the system since that is your only working boiler right now.
From what you posted before the WC 6006A (and fan) are getting power from the L1 and L2 terminals of the 8124. Fine - that makes the 6006A independent of the oil boiler control since it's powered at all times.
There are different versions of the L8124 - eg L8124A, L8124E, etc. You can get the manual for them on Honeywell's website or find the links to them in the Wiki on this site.
I had a thought, what do you think about replacing my zone value with a circulator to help push the water through the house better and take some of the burden off the one attached to the oil burner, which to doing all of the work?