I've been reading you trials and tribulations with your stove, and had to go look up what it looks like. Is this the stove (pictured below)??
It looks like a nice stove from a comapny that knows it's stuff. It also is set up like my old vermont castings Vigilant, in that it has a hopper, thermostatic inlet damper, and shaker arm.
You are using the hopper and filling up it when you have a lively fire aren't you?
Those slide air inlets at the front top of the stove should be closed all the time for coal I should think,from the manual I read. You don't want any air coming in over the fire at all, only from the round flapper on the thermostat mechanism.
My stoves run well with the baro set at .05 in very cold conditions, baro is 3/4 open and pegs open in a good wind gust, which it's doing now, wind 30mph and 3 degrees outside. When it's warmer the baro is closed more. So I think your baro is setup fine.
You speak of temps of 200, is that on the pipe or on the stove top. I'd put the thermometr on the top and see what the stove temps are if you have it on the pipe now. As an example, my stove top is 600deg now and I can hold my hand on the pipe right at the chimney entrance, so you can see that the baro is cooling off the ehaust, and and reducing the draft at the same time. And the stove is pumping out some serious heat. The view from the front is tall blue flame from side to side,
When burning this hot I need to shake down every 5 or 6 hours to maintain 600 degrees at the stove top, but when it's only 20-30 and no wind it will go 8-10 hrs at 350-400deg to maintain the house temp (I shoot for 70 degrees, and have two stoves on each end of a L shaped house)
can you describe the pipe set up and chimney size, height ect? Being a rear exaust stove are you going srtaight in to the chimney or 90deg up , baro, and then chimney???
As for coal size the manual says pea I think, so I wouldn't worry about coal size right now.
try the thermometer on the stove and tell us what it reads, and see if you canhold youe hand on the pips at the chimney.
Your stove looks to have a bigger hopper and laeger actual fire mass (fire box/grate size) so you should be able to hold a hotter fire longer. That's a drawback to my stove, the smaller fore box.
Also you stated you have no stove thermostat, but you do, the lever on the right controls the round flapper, right? that mechanism must have some sort of bimetal device to react to the currant stove temp and keep the opening constant, thus keeping the temp constant. When yo look thru the ash door you said you can see the round hole with the flapper onthe other side of it. If the stove has a good fire in it, and you set the control arm at say, 8, is the flapper opened some, or is it closed?
Also can you crack open the ash pan door some and get the fire to liven up quickly, say 10 or 15 min?-- (don't ever go off and leave the door cracked open or you can have the stove over fire)
Sorry for alll the questions, but after seeing pics of the stove, I can't see how you can be having so much trouble getting it to crank out some hi btu's when you need it.
Don't give up, it'll happen I'm sure.
Here's a nice vid of a Vigilant II, not a hopper stove, but similiar to yours other than the filling bit. You can see how he revived and shakes/pokes it . Being a batch burner he has a much larger fire mass and can go longer between tending, but you stove should give you hi to low controllable burn settings too.ash build up in my vermont coal stove??
part 1ash build up in my vermont coal stove??
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