You should change the baro as suggested here. If you let the fire go out, just do it then.rewinder wrote:Hey rberg has the solution--- see fig H in this sketch from field--
By rotating the T till the face is plumb, then leveling the hindge pins you're set!
Not Enough Heat...
- rockwood
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This, combined with "rewinder's" description and pics, I think I understand now how this could work - I'll give it a shot before trying the elbow in the T idea.rberq wrote: And about that baro positioning: it is unusual to say the least. Let the stove burn out and cool off. Unscrew the baro tee at both ends. Rotate the tee so the opening faces away from the back wall (toward the camera, in the picture), and you should be able to get the face of the baro plumb or MUCH closer to plumb than it is now. Then by rotating the baro body within the opening you can level it, and get rid of most or all of the extra weight you added.
Thanks everyone!
- VigIIPeaBurner
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Don't think you'll need the el. rbergs got it solved.It should plum up if the run of pipe that the baro's T is on isn't tilted back toward the wall. If that run of pipe tilts too much to plumb the face, you could increase the stove pipe length that goes into the chimney thimble from the highest el until it does plum up. Will look better tooreckebecca wrote:This, combined with "rewinder's" description and pics, I think I understand now how this could work - I'll give it a shot before trying the elbow in the T idea.rberq wrote: And about that baro positioning: it is unusual to say the least. Let the stove burn out and cool off. Unscrew the baro tee at both ends. Rotate the tee so the opening faces away from the back wall (toward the camera, in the picture), and you should be able to get the face of the baro plumb or MUCH closer to plumb than it is now. Then by rotating the baro body within the opening you can level it, and get rid of most or all of the extra weight you added.
Thanks everyone!
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Now, see, there's the most important part, right there!VigIIPeaBurner wrote: Will look better too
- VigIIPeaBurner
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Do I EVER know that for certain!reckebecca wrote:Now, see, there's the most important part, right there!VigIIPeaBurner wrote: Will look better too
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LOL! Functional's good but, if you can add lookin' good on top well, that's just the cats meow!VigIIPeaBurner wrote:Do I EVER know that for certain!reckebecca wrote: Now, see, there's the most important part, right there!
- coaledsweat
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I don't think that "ideal" is the same as "highest output", but that it is a balance between heat and economy at that rate. If you want more heat, you will have to burn fuel at a higher rate.reckebecca wrote:The manual states that .03-.04 is "ideal" for the stove for optimum burn.
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This is why we like pictures!
Unless we can 'see' the install you may never properly describe the install.
Level and plumb the baro and the draft issues caused by the faulty install will be solved.
With the short flue height give the Nut a try!
Even a mix of Nut and Pea will work.
You should be able to roast yourself out of that room if you cared to!
Unless we can 'see' the install you may never properly describe the install.
Level and plumb the baro and the draft issues caused by the faulty install will be solved.
With the short flue height give the Nut a try!
Even a mix of Nut and Pea will work.
You should be able to roast yourself out of that room if you cared to!
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Yes, I'm glad that you asked for them! I knew that level was important - I didn't get (until today!) that plumb is as important for the baro.CapeCoaler wrote:This is why we like pictures!
Unless we can 'see' the install you may never properly describe the install.
Level and plumb the baro and the draft issues caused by the faulty install will be solved.
With the short flue height give the Nut a try!
Even a mix of Nut and Pea will work.
You should be able to roast yourself out of that room if you cared to!
With the heat I'm getting out of it now with the front vents closed I'm a little a'scared to fix the baro if that means it will put out even more heat! :~) But, I will fix it since it's the right (and safe) thing to do!
I will see if my local supplier does bagged so that I can get some of the nut to try.
Thanks again.
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That makes sense - hadn't thought about them being more concerned with economy vs. heat output.coaledsweat wrote:I don't think that "ideal" is the same as "highest output", but that it is a balance between heat and economy at that rate. If you want more heat, you will have to burn fuel at a higher rate.reckebecca wrote:The manual states that .03-.04 is "ideal" for the stove for optimum burn.
I'd wait till you fix the baro, pea coal is what the manual reccomended I think. You'll be able to control the output by lowering the control rod to a lower number.
And don't be concerned when you see the manometer read .02 to .03 when the outside temps get 40 to 50, you probably won't be running the stove above 300, and the baro will still be pulling open some .
Happy New Year's Heat!
And don't be concerned when you see the manometer read .02 to .03 when the outside temps get 40 to 50, you probably won't be running the stove above 300, and the baro will still be pulling open some .
Happy New Year's Heat!
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Most chain hardware stores will carry Blaschak Coal, this will get you a decent and consistent quality coal from just about any location.
$7 or less for a 40 lb bag, get a few bags, 10 or so to burn when it gets cold.
I keep 10 bags in the bed of the truck for weight/traction.
$7 or less for a 40 lb bag, get a few bags, 10 or so to burn when it gets cold.
I keep 10 bags in the bed of the truck for weight/traction.
I don't know where becca is from but there is no coal sold at hardware stores where I am from. I think this luxury only exists for you guys on the coast.CapeCoaler wrote:Most chain hardware stores will carry Blaschak Coal,
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I'm in the Finger Lakes region of NY - might Agway carry it? I'm thinking that my coal supplier must carry nut, just not sure if he does bagged or not. The pea I'm burning is Blaschak Coal.gambler wrote:I don't know where becca is from but there is no coal sold at hardware stores where I am from. I think this luxury only exists for you guys on the coast.CapeCoaler wrote:Most chain hardware stores will carry Blaschak Coal,
I'll tell ya though, now that I've got this thing cookin' it's puttin' out the serious heat I was anticipating when I put it in - couldn't have gotten there without you guys! The blue ladies have been dancing all day! The dog has headed to the other end of the house 'cause it's too hot for him in the living room! I love it!