Placement of a Barometric Damper

I’m looking for some help in determining the placement of a barometric damper on my Harman II. Everything I’ve read indicates that the Barometric damper is placed on the vertical pipe between the stove and the chimney. Unfortunately, my set up doesn’t not have a vertical pipe before joining the chimney. The pipe runs horizontal from the back of the stove, through the wall to the chimney outside. The horizontal pipe is approximately 2 feet long before it exits the house. Would it do me any good to place the Barometric damper on the horizontal pipe between the stove and the wall?

The stove is doing quite well without a damper but from what I’ve read it could be doing better with one. I haven’t noticed any problem with a change in the draft due to wind or change in outside temperatures. Any thoughts?

Welcome lowfog01,

Go to and look up Automatic Draft Control.

They show several ways to mount the baro in a horizontal location for solid fuel or Oil.

R.S.

http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php

R.S.

It'll be fine on the horizontal pipe. Put it as close to the chimney as you can. Make sure it's level in both directions and adjust it with a manomometer.

Ditto.
Manometer here.

Manometer Loaner Program

Thanks, I'll go ahead with the installation of the Barometric damper if we lose the fire yet this year but it's been going strong for about a month now and I'm hopeful that we can make it on "one match for the season." Lisa

Last year I heated from mid Feb. to the end of March without a baro. (new stove installation) with no problems. Last summer I installed the baro. My flue temps have dropped from the 250* to 300* range to a 150* to 225* range. I am saving heat that I paid good $ to produce. Another issue with not having a baro is overfiring if you do get conditions that cause a stronger draft than you have experienced yet (such as colder outdoor temps than you have experienced yet). My stove has a stove temp. affected automatic thermostat. Should my stove start to overfire due to strong draft, the thermostat will close down the draft intake. I don't think your Harman has an automatic thermostat does it If not, your stove will get hotter and hotter with a strong draft. That additional heat will create an even stronger draft etc. For this reason I recommend that you install the baro. this year. A manometer is great for stetting and monitoring flue draft, but if you don't want to buy a manometer just now (about 50 bucks) you can get close enough by setting the Field Controls Type FC baro to the 3 or 4 mark, to prevent overfire. :discuss:

As coaledsweat said, we can loan you a manometer, just PM me with your contact phone number and mailing address, we have four in rotation all of which are waiting for new homes.

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the valuable information. I have decided to go ahead and get the barometric damper installed this year. Next week they are calling for daytime temps in the high 40's low 50s or higher here in the Mid-Atlantic States so the timing is right to shut the stove down and get the barometric damper on.

I glad to hear of the Monometer Loaner program but unfortunately, I have reached my level of incompetency in all things mechanical and will be calling the chimney guy who installed my stove in to take care of it for me. Hopefully, it won’t take to long or be too expensive.

I will just have to live with the thought of using 2 matches for the season. Lisa

Lisa When you call your chimney guy you'll want to make sure to tell him you want a (Field Controls) barometric damper RC are what most use. There are some cheaper ones but they don't work that good.

Type M is recomended for coal . But the RC type does work well for most people .