Barometric Damper ? Hotblast

I have a Hotblast 1537G stove. I put it in the basement/garage. The only way I could do this is run a stainless liner down the chimney, through the fireplace opening (I cut out the steel flue) and down the old cleanout that ran to the basement. At the bottom I put a 90 elbow and attached another piece directly into the back of the stove. Horizontally. The stove actually sits a few inches higher then the pipe. I know it is a no no, but it drafts great and I wasn't about to bust out anymore of the old fireplace. I want to install a Barometric damper so I can burn coal better in this. Do they make them so they can sit horizontally? All the ones I have seen are vertical. Thanks.

They work either way, you just have to change the weight on it. http://www.Fieldcontrols.com type RC. Look at the manual, it gives you installation recommendations.

here's the manual
**Broken Link(s) Removed**

I just installed a baro damper, RC Feilds one.. Its on a diagonal section of pipe. Uh which side should the weight be on? Options are horizontal or verticle. I installed it because my heat yo yos constantly unless everything balances just right. I turn it down and it falls and keeps falling, I turn the air feed up it warms up and keeps warming up.. I hope this will give me more consistant heat output. I have a manometer coming today.

Damper is plum and level, I held the camera cock-eyed lol..

Any suggestions or advise?

I also want to add I love this forum and the people here are great!! I have learned a wealth of info here!!

Do I see a shadow of a horizontal run before the exit?

Vertical. When the manometer gets there you should set the weight based on the manometer reading, not the baro scale.

HI Valter, yes - there is a short run (less than 3 feet) of horizontal pipe before going outside.

Titliest1, I have the weight on the vertical side. The manometer didn't show up today, I should get it tomorrow. I set the weight to about .02 on the baro scale and it seems to be doing its job. I'm sure I'll need the manometer to really know whats going on though.

Update: I got the wrong manometer I wanted the #25 not the #27. Oh well, sending it back. I've been setting my baro just by kinda trial and error along with watching how it reacts. So far I'm very pleased with the results!! Before the baro I was having a yo yo effect where closing the air feed slightly would eventually run it cold and then opening it slightly and it would spiral upward too hot. My wife made numerous trips into the basement trying to control heat output while I was at work. Then when I got home I would take over chasing the yo yo.

I think I've found the sweet spot on the baro. Now its controlling draft pressure even at low fire temps and I can heat it up by opening the air feed and it won't spiral into an over heat. My furnace is like a tamed animal now, very happy!! What clever device!!

I had an old handstoked coal furnace in upstate NY that I used very successfully and the control on it was a chain and pully arrangement that either closed the draft door on the ash pit as it opened a small round door on the flue to coll down the fire or the opposite if it was turned the other way, opening the drafton the ashpit and closing the door in the flue. It worked great and noonedied of CO. Does anyone have any feedback on such a system? I wonder now why we didn't have a problem with CO or something but as I said it worked great?

coalturkey wrote:I had an old handstoked coal furnace in upstate NY that I used very successfully and the control on it was a chain and pully arrangement that either closed the draft door on the ash pit as it opened a small round door on the flue to coll down the fire or the opposite if it was turned the other way, opening the drafton the ashpit and closing the door in the flue. It worked great and noonedied of CO. Does anyone have any feedback on such a system? I wonder now why we didn't have a problem with CO or something but as I said it worked great?

Yeah, that was called a Fields Barochek, you can see some previous discussion in this thread...

Damper Motor Woes

coalturkey wrote:I had an old handstoked coal furnace in upstate NY that I used very successfully and the control on it was a chain and pully arrangement that either closed the draft door on the ash pit as it opened a small round door on the flue to coll down the fire or the opposite if it was turned the other way, opening the drafton the ashpit and closing the door in the flue. It worked great and noonedied of CO. Does anyone have any feedback on such a system? I wonder now why we didn't have a problem with CO or something but as I said it worked great?

You probably had a GOOD central Chimney with a lot of draft like a lot of the old houses had back then. Our house is 1890, and I use central chimney and it always has at least a .04 or more sometimes.

That is exactly what I had except it was manually operated from the upstairs with a sprocket and dial. Worked great.