Building A Small Coal Bin

 
PackRuss
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Post by PackRuss » Wed. Sep. 13, 2006 9:04 pm

Hello,
Looking to build a small outdoor bin to hold a ton. Unfortunately not a lot to spend this year and I see pressure treated wood is very expensive. Can I get by with regular wood with waterproofing? What would the dimensions of this unit be, how much cu.ft capacity would it need to hold? What would a list of items I would need to construct the bin be, bracing needed etc? Not sure if anyone has a simple blueprint-type drawing. Are there premade storage units that will work, toolbins etc?
We got this Keystoker unit last year and are very happy with it, but the old bin is on it's last legs.
-thanks,
Russ


 
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Post by stokerstove » Thu. Sep. 14, 2006 5:21 pm

Russ, Did you consider making it with concrete blocks? That's what I made my indoor bin with. Didn't feel like taking the time to mortar all the joints - just dry stacked the blocks and used shur-wall. This didn't cost much either, but I did use 1 existing wall so I only had to make 3.
Mine is 4'x8'x4.5' high. I normally put only 2 tons of rice in at a time but I think I could squeeze 3 tons in.
I've heard of pre-made units but I don't know where to find them - try a search on Google.
Bob

 
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Post by Motor Stoker » Sun. Sep. 17, 2006 9:14 pm

Stokerstove,
Did you use ordinary blocks or do they interlock with each other some how? What is shur-wall?

 
stokerstove
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Post by stokerstove » Sun. Sep. 17, 2006 10:46 pm

I used ordinary 4 x 12 hollow blocks. Shur-wall is a product that has fiberglass strands in it and you mix with water and coat the outside of the blocks with once they are in place. The mfg. claims walls made w/ shur-wall are as strong as reg. mortared walls.
The only problem I could see with your situation would be when you build outside you could have problems with frost heave if you build on top of the ground. This would probably break the bin apart.

 
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Richard S.
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Post by Richard S. » Sun. Sep. 17, 2006 11:00 pm

PackRuss wrote: Can I get by with regular wood with waterproofing?
Yes, most of the bins I deliver too are regular wood. If outside they may have some paint on the outside. Besides that you really don't need to weatherprrof as long as you have a roof on it.

 
PackRuss
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Post by PackRuss » Wed. Sep. 20, 2006 1:18 pm

Thanks, for everyone's input. Yes if I go with the blocks I will have to make some sort of foundation to base it on and a roof as well. I also would have like to work in a chute for pouring is well. Ultimately there is a nice section off of my garage that I thought about making a matching brick unit, but I was told I could not attach it right to the garage due to zoning. ALthough if I construct a wooden unit, I would also like to have a solid floor that won't rot, possibly sheet metal? :roll:

 
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Richard S.
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Post by Richard S. » Wed. Sep. 20, 2006 4:53 pm

PackRuss wrote: ALthough if I construct a wooden unit, I would also like to have a solid floor that won't rot, possibly sheet metal? :roll:
Trust me, no need. Use 3/4 plywood and make sure it's sitting off the ground. As long as you keep the wether out it will be fine for many, many years. Unless you use a heavy gauge the sheet metal will rot as fast if not faster than the wood. It won't allow the water to drain so it just sits there, combine that with sulfur and you get instant rot.

Put a some small holes in each corner and the center so the water drains fast and put a couple of layers of paint if you really want it to last..

As far as the roof goes it's best to make it removable or on hinges so you can just lift and prop it up. It's a lot easier to fill.


 
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Post by ktm rider » Wed. Sep. 20, 2006 5:37 pm

Stokerstove,

I am building a concrete block bin also. You wouldn't happen to have a link for the Shur-Wall coating would you? I did a quick search and found nothing. Thanks,

 
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Post by stokerstove » Wed. Sep. 20, 2006 10:11 pm

ktm rider,
I believe Shurwall is a name brand, possibly out of business or just hard to find - I picked it up at a local indus. supply Co.
I found a couple of links that may help:
**Broken Link(s) Removed**

Hope that helps

 
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Post by wg_bent » Thu. Sep. 21, 2006 12:03 pm

I built one once that was made out of 3/4 plywood with galvanized angle iron on the corners. 1 4x8 sheet for floor, 1 for front and back 1/2 for each side.
1/2 ply for top.

Cut front a bit shorter than back so top was sloped.

I also cut a hole on bottom of one side for an access when bin got low.

It lasted for many years. Bowed a bit on the sides when full, but a couple more angle irons along the sides solved that problem. All held together with lag bolts found cheap at a local surplus store.

 
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JKinPA
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Post by JKinPA » Fri. Jul. 11, 2008 12:41 pm

Hi Everyone,

Just bought my stove an Alaska Stove Liberty model. I live in North East PA and I need a coal bin and have a few questions...

I'm expecting a 2 to 3 ton delivery of Rice coal. My thought was to build the bin 4 foot high, 8 foot wide and 4 foot deep will that hold 3 ton of coal?

I was going to use pressure treated lumber 2 X 4 and exterior grade 3/4" plywood and paint...is that enough?

If out side I was thinking to put it on heavy duty casters does that make sence?

I have a basement with small (2 foot wide by 18 inches high) windows...could I get a chute into that size and then have it delivered off the truck into the chute and into the basement?

Ho much dust is made during delivery?

I have gotten prices of coal at $170 per ton on a 3 ton delivery is that average?

Thank you!

 
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traderfjp
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Post by traderfjp » Fri. Jul. 11, 2008 5:57 pm

Durarock would make an inexpensive floor. $11.00 for a 3 x 5 sheet. It would make a good side wall too.

 
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Richard S.
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Post by Richard S. » Fri. Jul. 11, 2008 6:29 pm

JKinPA wrote:My thought was to build the bin 4 foot high, 8 foot wide and 4 foot deep will that hold 3 ton of coal?
That will hold almost exactly 3 ton.
JKinPA wrote: I was going to use pressure treated lumber 2 X 4 and exterior grade 3/4" plywood and paint...is that enough?
Yes. actually you don't need the pressure treated at all, the coal will be damp/wet but if it's outside it will dry out quickly. The key is to elevate it off the ground and have a roof on it and it will last you many years. A coat of paint will certainly go along way in preserving it much longer, probably indefinitely.
JKinPA wrote:If out side I was thinking to put it on heavy duty casters does that make sence?
Anything to elevate it but you'll need some pretty flat solid ground to be moving it around on wheels.
JKinPA wrote:I have a basement with small (2 foot wide by 18 inches high) windows...could I get a chute into that size and then have it delivered off the truck into the chute and into the basement?

Ho much dust is made during delivery?


Yes that's suitable but the truck will need to be able to get into fairly close range. How close depends on the type of truck. With a regular high lift it can be quite distance away but if its regular dump truck it will have to be able to back almost right up to the window.

The dust is a "depends" questions, the coal should be at least damp when you get it delivered. If it's not I'd strongly suggest making it wet before putting it into the basement window. Ask your dealer to hose it down on the truck or spray it as its going down the chute. Other factors include the size of the coal, the larger sizes like nut have more breakage during delivery, even if it's wet dust will be created from simply banging off each other especially if its coming in fast or there is high drop. Dampen the inside of your bin prior to delivery especially if its a second load. All that dust on the floor and walls will kick up.

As long as the coal is damp and the walls and floor of your bin is damp dust will be minimal during delivery. If its rice coal for example its will pretty much be none.

 
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JKinPA
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Post by JKinPA » Sat. Jul. 12, 2008 8:00 am

Thank you so much for the reply!!!

the more I think of it the more I'm liking the basement idea.

Should I slope the floor towords the access door and if so how much? If I do it in the basement I'm less limited by size and I could place it at essentially any angle and adjust the size for the loss of space due to the angle.

I have to contact my coal company to find out if they can deliver it the way I would like.

Joe

 
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Richard S.
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Post by Richard S. » Sat. Jul. 12, 2008 9:03 am

You need at least a 45 dgree pitch, just leave it as floor, the only thing you'll be doing is taking up space. The only time that is advisable is if you're going to build a giant hopper that all slopes to a single point for a auger fed boiler. You need a really high basement for that.


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