Clayton 1600 Problems

Did you just measure the wrong flue or is the chimney 14x14 on the top and 8x8 at the bottom thimble?

The top 3 feet or so is 14x14 then the res to the thimble is 8x8. The thimble is Approx 14x14

What are you measuring? when you give us the measurements

I'm measuring the inside dimensions. the chimmney is red brick, not lined.

If your chimney is not lined with clay tile in good repair or a stainless steel chimney liner in good repair, I would not use the chimney. It is a safety issue.

There maybe cracks in the mortar that fumes or fire will escape possibly igniting close combustibles or emitting CO gases into the living space, not good. Plus the extra uncontrolled draft entering the chimney will make it impossible to control the fire.

A brick lined chimney is OK to use with coal if it is not compromised, large cracks or missing bricks.
As always ask a professional to see if it is ok for coal.
SS liner will work to fix draft issues.
But make sure a lack of draft is the issue, if the draft is too strong and your baro is 'pegging' itself then a larger baro is in order.

I did have the Chimmney inspected before I converted back over to coal. The chimmney sweep did an excellent job and also ran a camera down to inspect the middle of the chimmney. I had to do this for my Homeowner's insurance. The inspector said the chimmney was ok to use for coal. Surprisingly there wasn't much loose motar throughout.

what did you mean by a bigger Baro damper. My furnace outlet is 6 in. Is it possible to install a bigger baro?

You can use a larger sized barometric draft regulator, say 8" and use an 8" to a 6" reducer, if you want. But I think you will be fine with the six inch you have.

If it is not pegging wide open it is not an issue, yet.
The extra large opening at the top may be creating some kind of funk with the draft.

CapeCoaler wrote:If it is not pegging wide open it is not an issue, yet.
The extra large opening at the top may be creating some kind of funk with the draft.

It will reduce the velocity of the exiting gasses at the enlarged end, but I doubt that it would have much impact on total draft. IIRC we are talking about a 30+' chimney, it should draft well with a 3" hole in it.

eng 1 line, save that chimney sweeps number. He is an honest man. Many would have sold you a liner you did not need.

hey guys new to the forum and burning coal. have a clayton 1600. the stove is in the basement. does not have one of them dampers yal speak of. dont have the room for it for this set up. burns wood great and will heat the house fine, just only do it for about 6 to 8 hours. so tried switching to coal. i can get the coal glowing orange no problem. but once i start shutting the stove down in like 2 to 3 hours the stove is out and cold. look inside everything looks like rusted melted steel. but if i build a fire in my buck stove and throw some inside it and it just laying in the wood ash it will burn all night long. been trying to burn straight coal for bout a month and have yet to get it to work right. now if i sit there and mess with it every hour i can keep it glowing. i can get the blue flames going and everything but the fire wont last over 3 hours. i slowly add coal to the fire so i dont smoother it. any help would be awesome guys

Anthracite or bituminous?

Does this model have the 6 stubby parallel grates in it?

bituminous. yes it does. i poke and shake everything and let it get back to glowing good. then ill add a shovel full and let it get going add another one. let it get going. add one more. once its going ill shut the chimney all the way down since it has that gas passage. ash pan damper bout half way out. top damper 3/4 way out.

How often are you shaking ash?