Got Draft?

2 hours ago it was almost out.

Patience is the key.

Your chimney sucks. I mean, really.

Like a vacuum.

Was that the alaska? Man that thing was cranking. 425* stack temp?

No, it's the hand-fed. I just got the fire back up from being almost out. I think I saw a cat toy fly by me and into the baro opening as I was taking the picture.

I would start looking for the cat, that thing looks hungry.

WoodnCoal, Whats that pipe you have under the thermometer?

I have one of those suckers too! My baro looks like this probably 80% of the time. But I can still run my stove when the outside temps are in the 70's I could probably go all summer and still have a draft but I have always turned the stove out when temps got into the 70's. I wish I could operate the stove with the baro closed up more as I feel it is sucking quite a bit of heat out of it with it always open that far.

gambler wrote:I wish I could operate the stove with the baro closed up more as I feel it is sucking quite a bit of heat out of it with it always open that far.

You could install a larger baro. A 7" RC adds over 10 sq. inches to the area opening over a 6". That is a 33% increase in volume and should cut that yawn down considerably. I would concur on the heat loss, particularly on windy days if you are operating the baro at it's limit.

coaledsweat wrote:You could install a larger baro. A 7" RC adds over 10 sq. inches to the area opening over a 6". That is a 33% increase in volume and should cut that yawn down considerably. I would concur on the heat loss, particularly on windy days if you are operating the baro at it's limit.

Even if I install a larger one won't it still be drawing the same amount of air volume from the house? Yes it will not be open as far but the chimney needs a given amount of air to maintain my setting on the stove. The only time my baro is completely closed is when the stove is at idle and even then it it teetering on the edge.

The plate cuts down on usable surface area.
Even wide open a 6" baro is not alowing the entire area to flow.
Moving up a size makes the raw area closer to usable area.

I don't have a problem with the baro controling my setting. Even on a windy day I have never seen my manometer go over -.05. My problem is that it is always open quite far and I am losing house air up the flue. But I do not see any way around this. The chimney needs "x" amount of air to keep my stove at -.04. I can go to a larger baro but it will still be letting "x" amount of house air up the flue to maintain my -.04 draft on the stove. Even if it is not opening up as far. It has worked well with the 6" baro but I wish my chimney didn't draft as good as it does. I think I will have to live with it. My chimney goes straight up from the top of the stove but I think if it went up the outside wall where I would need a couple of elbows it would knock the draft down some.

sorry for the thread hijack! I honestly didn't mean to.

Some use manual pipe dampers in conjunction with a baro. I'm not recommending this but I know it's been done.

Modern air-tight stoves should not have manual dampers installed on the smoke pipe, Harman specifically forbids the use of one. On an older stove made of cast iron sections a manual damper is acceptable.

WoodnCoal, Whats that pipe you have under the thermometer

That's a test heat collector that draws hot air from around the pipe and sends it off into the Kitchen.

How Do You Distribute Heat From Your Stove?

scroll down.

BTW, I can't find the skinny cat....