Hitzer Stove Selection...What to Get

 
Stemmy
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Post by Stemmy » Wed. Jan. 07, 2009 9:22 pm

Great news. That's what I'm talking about. I might be sold.....


 
Stemmy
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Post by Stemmy » Wed. Jan. 07, 2009 9:23 pm

Great. That's what I'm talking about. I'm sold.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Wed. Jan. 07, 2009 10:31 pm

I have both, the 50-93 & 30-95. Both great stoves. Because your heating your basement, as well as your up stairs, the 30-95 is too small. You will want the 50-93. As far as efficiency goes, the 50-93 is more efficient. Believe it or not, at rated operating temps, both stoves use the same amount of coal (one 5 gal pail every 12 hours). The 30-95 throws out a lot of heat. The 50-93 will blast you with a wall of heat. No doubt, the 50-93 feels like almost double the BTU rating of the 30-95. Yet, they both go through the same amount of coal. So, that tells me that the 30-95 has more heat going up the chimney (no thermometer yet). Or, maybe the 30-95 has more heat going through the side walls of the stove. The surface area of the heat exchanger on a 30-95, is a lot smaller than the surface area on a 50-93 heat exchanger. Should you have a chimney with a week draft, the 30-95 is a real firecracker with it's single grate, and would help the draft along. The only advantage I could see by disconnecting one grate on the 50-93 is a hotter burn with smaller fire, giving the stove a better draft during warmer burn days. Kinda turns the 50-93 into a 30-95.

 
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Floydman89
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Post by Floydman89 » Thu. Jan. 08, 2009 12:17 pm

Oliver, I have the Hitzer 30-95, running it since Oct .. .my house is about 1700 sq ft ... I think the 50-93 would have been the better stove... Don't get me wrong .. the 30-95 is an awesome stove... I think It would do very well in a 1200 sq ft house . .well insulated! .. We run the damper on 11-12 .. durring 15-25 deg outside.. Not sure how much more we can turn that up.. Stack temp 200-300 deg .. and stove temp 400 ?? We NEVER have a problem with it going out.. we shake it down every 8-10 hours .. .burning reading pea.. When its HOT .. the coal is orange right up to the hopper... and the blue ladies are dancing big! . We have only had a couple real cold spells here in CNY .. say 10deg and windy .. then we'll need to run the oil furnace a little... I wonder having a 50-93 .. if we would have the problem of keeping the stove going in 50deg temps?? M&M coal said we could take out the pin on the one side .. but that seemed weird to me at the time .. but makes total since now..

 
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baldeagle
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Post by baldeagle » Thu. Jan. 08, 2009 2:27 pm

Also have a 354 -- works great with/without the fan. It will heat your space, but I agree with others - why heat an uninsulated basement? Build an enclosure and get the heat to the living area. In the thread others are mentioning using only one of the two grates that shake independently - we also have that in our Hitzer insert -- sounds like a GRATE idea for 50-60" weather, the 354 at the farm drives us out (open windows) on those days. As another member wrote - the gravity stoker is great - we can get a +/- 40 hr. burn on the insert with it dampered way back. Buy the fitted Hitzer ash pan if you want to hold down the dust - if you wait until the next shakeout the ashes will be cool and make very little dust - we also have the correct sized ash tote (Hitzer).
Best of Luck

 
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oliver power
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & 30-95, Vigilant (pre-2310), D.S. 1600 Circulator, Hitzer 254

Post by oliver power » Thu. Jan. 08, 2009 10:05 pm

Floydman89 wrote:Oliver, I have the Hitzer 30-95, running it since Oct .. .my house is about 1700 sq ft ... I think the 50-93 would have been the better stove... Don't get me wrong .. the 30-95 is an awesome stove... I think It would do very well in a 1200 sq ft house . .well insulated! .. We run the damper on 11-12 .. durring 15-25 deg outside.. Not sure how much more we can turn that up.. Stack temp 200-300 deg .. and stove temp 400 ?? We NEVER have a problem with it going out.. we shake it down every 8-10 hours .. .burning reading pea.. When its HOT .. the coal is orange right up to the hopper... and the blue ladies are dancing big! . We have only had a couple real cold spells here in CNY .. say 10deg and windy .. then we'll need to run the oil furnace a little... I wonder having a 50-93 .. if we would have the problem of keeping the stove going in 50deg temps?? M&M coal said we could take out the pin on the one side .. but that seemed weird to me at the time .. but makes total since now..
Hi Floyedman89, You are right on track. I too have 1700 square foot ranch style home. My 50-93 is in a basement the same size, giving me a total heating area of 3400 square feet. The 50-93 does a great job! It will coast along all winter. My back draft dial is set at 8. Ash pan door vents are round. Stack temps range from 150 - 200. In the warmer wheather, I have no problem keeping the stove going (50 - 75 stack temp). I've thought about disconnecting one of my grates for warmer wheather. Now that I see others have done this, Come spring, I may try it myself. If for no other reason, just to experiment.
The 30-95 would have to be cranking pretty good to heat 3400 square feet, and then fall short during the coldest days of winter. My 30-95 is in the pole barn garage. Great little stove. I run it off & on through out the winter. Put a couple ton or so of coal through it. Like you say, it will heat 1200 square foot place easily. Put that 1200 square foot home on the same size basement, now you're talking 2400 square feet (a bit much for the 30-95). The 50-93 is rated for 2500 square feet, yet I heat 3400 square feet without over fireing the stove. I would say the factory under rated the 50-93. Without looking, I believe the 30-95 is rated for 1600 square feet. I think that rating is just about right. Almost forgot to mention; I burn chestnut size coal in both stoves. Tending time is every 12 hours(can go longer). I don't touch my stoves for at least 12 hours. No shaking, no nothing. If you have to tend your stove every 8 - 10 hours, sounds like you're over fireing. You'd be very happy with the 50-93.

 
sharkman8810
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Post by sharkman8810 » Fri. Jan. 09, 2009 9:44 am

I noticed alot of the guys with the insulated finished basements have the 50-93 with a blower, and that situation works for them. Howerever unless you finish the basment and plan to space heat it, use a radiant stove and duct the heat it is way more efficient and use alot less coal. There is a thread on here where a guy ducted from a 50-93 to upstairs, and it was 3 pages, and I don't think he ever got it to work right, plus inefficent. It is easier to put a floor fan on a radiant stove and space heat an area than turn a stove that is designed with a blower and double wall construction into a radiant stove and duct the heat.

Dont concern with the burn time, the 82 will last plenty long enough for a standard 2 time a day 12-15 hours plus depending. Yes you may get longer before feeding with a hopper feed, but you still have to shake with ash buildup.


 
Stemmy
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Post by Stemmy » Fri. Jan. 09, 2009 12:18 pm

Sharkman- What do you mean by "floor fan"? What is your setup? Do you have pictures or a link to pictures?

Future studded walls and insulation isn't out of the question for me. But not on the near horizon.

 
Stemmy
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Post by Stemmy » Fri. Jan. 09, 2009 12:28 pm

Oiliver Power- Is your basement insulated? How do you get the heat upstairs? Do you heat all of the rooms w/ the stove? I talked to someone who told me he runs his 50-93 with the back damper shut completely with a c-clamp. He uses just the front ash pan holes for combustion air. Has anyone heard of this?

 
sharkman8810
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Post by sharkman8810 » Fri. Jan. 09, 2009 12:34 pm

I have an 82 that I built a sheet metal cabinet around and then put an 8" duct on the top of the cabinet, and ran that into a floor register.I have an 8" inline duct fan pulling the heat from the cabinet and blowing into the room, the air temp is about 180*f. Basically I turned my 82 U.L. into a FA buy building my own cabinet and fan. There are pictures of my setup on the forum, but I am not sure where.

floor fan, by that I mean just a regular box fan or standing oscillator fan. My thing with the 50-93 and fan is that they don't have much of a blower for the size of stove. If you look with the 82 fa model they have a 980 cfm if I remember right, while the 50-93's fan is only 210cfm, but yet they have near the same max BTU rating, just doesnt make sense to me, they probably have alot of heat out of the sides, and this will heat the basement and not the floor where you want heat.

The 82 also has a secondary burn chamber which I don't think the 50-93 has.

 
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Rex
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Post by Rex » Fri. Jan. 09, 2009 4:43 pm

This will be our second year using the Hitzer 50-93 heating a 3,000 sqft house. Absolutely love it and Hitzer has awesome customer support. Clean and load every 12 hours.

Good luck

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Fri. Jan. 09, 2009 9:31 pm

Stemmy wrote:Oiliver Power- Is your basement insulated? How do you get the heat upstairs? Do you heat all of the rooms w/ the stove? I talked to someone who told me he runs his 50-93 with the back damper shut completely with a c-clamp. He uses just the front ash pan holes for combustion air. Has anyone heard of this?
No, my basement is not insulated. Yes, I do heat the entire house (all rooms). You don't need a big fan for wood or coal stove. Although the HITZER 50-93 only has a 210 cfm fan, it is still more fan than most other coal stoves I've researched. That doesn't matter anyways. I run my fan as slow as possible without hearing motor strain. Most coal stoves have either the front ash pan door vents, or the auto back damper, not both. The HITZER has both. If the HITZER is run like it was engineered to run (useing front & back draft), it runs like a swiss watch. Don't ask me why some HITZER owners use only the front, or back draft. Set the ash pan vents for minimal air (half moon - full moon), and back vent for comfort. I heat my basement, and the heat rises through interior wall cavity vents, which I installed about 16" off the floor. Cold air goes down through the hot air registers for the furnace. On very cold days, the furnace may kick on for a very short time, circulating the 85* basement air evenly through out the house. I installed a door, high in the main vertical cold air trunk, ahead of the air filter. This allows the preheated basement air to be sucked in, and pushed around the house. We've had some very cold days in the last few weeks (southern hills of western NY). The furnace quit working. Temps in house dropped to mid - upper 60's. We openned the cellar door, and the heat came rolling up into the house. Before we realized it, the house was back up around 72 - 74 degrees. We left the cellar door cracked open while the furnace was down for a couple weeks or so. Furnace was fixed 2 days ago. We still leave the cellar door cracked open. Furnace hasn't come on since. The entire house is warm. Maybe 3 - 5 degrees cooler at the far end. Nice for sleeping.
Last edited by oliver power on Sat. Jan. 10, 2009 7:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Rex
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Post by Rex » Sat. Jan. 10, 2009 6:39 am

Stemmy wrote:Oiliver Power- Don't ask me why some HITZER owners use only the front, or back draft. .
oliver power,

I run my HITZER 50-93 with the front ash air holes closed shut and sealed and painted over. I removed the magnet from the back air draft and placed two small paper clips on either side of the flapper (stops the chatter). Let me tell you that the system runs like a champ. The rear air damper has solid control over the system and maintains a very tight constant heat. (sorry for getting off subject)

 
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oliver power
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Stoker Coal Boiler: KEYSTOKER Kaa-2
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & 30-95, Vigilant (pre-2310), D.S. 1600 Circulator, Hitzer 254

Post by oliver power » Sat. Jan. 10, 2009 8:29 am

oliver power wrote:
Stemmy wrote:Oiliver Power- Don't ask me why some HITZER owners use only the front, or back draft. .
oliver power,

I run my HITZER 50-93 with the front ash air holes closed shut and sealed and painted over. I removed the magnet from the back air draft and placed two small paper clips on either side of the flapper (stops the chatter). Let me tell you that the system runs like a champ. The rear air damper has solid control over the system and maintains a very tight constant heat. (sorry for getting off subject)
Hi Rex, Paper clips on the back air draft door.......very simple, & creative. I bet it does work good. Kind of the same thing as useing both, the front and back vents. In other words, don't completely shut off the air to the fire. Nice tip for stoves that only have spring controled air draft. The paper clips keep the draft door cracked open just a little (the thickness of the paper clips). Useing the front ash pan door vents would be like ajusting the thickness of the paper clips, while the back air draft controls the comfort level of heat.

 
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baldeagle
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Post by baldeagle » Sun. Jan. 11, 2009 3:28 pm

Stemmy _ which stove did you settle on buying? baldeagle


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