van wert boiler

is this a boiler or a furnace????

if a furnace -- opening a hot water tap isn't going to effect much

if its a boiler ummm -- you got some more studying to do

Start here with a Primer on Hydronics

http://www.bellgossett.com/literature/files/1195.pdf

I am still trying to figure all this out.
I found this online. http://www.hearthnhome.com/downloads/in ... VF3000.pdf. Page 15 shows a plumbing diagram.
I have found the c/w supply, the return, the recirc pump, the expansio tank, obviously the pr valve, the air scoop, what appear to be two thermastaically controled devices for two separate zones, and the temp/pressure gauge. I have not found an aquastat, or a tempering valve(or any other tie from the c/w supply to the domestic h/w).
What appeared to be the problem today was that the fire was getting too hot and heating the water in the boiler more than what the demand for water to the baseboard heaters and potable water were calling for. If I ran the hot water in the sink and turned up the thermostat the p/r valve would not open. It is plumbed to the outside so it was kind of cool to see it melt all the snow in the back yard though.
I had followed the steps in one of the threads about starting the coal fire in the boiler. Had it burning under coal in about 15 minutes. Had it filled to the top of the fire brick in about an hour and burning hot. Too hot I guess. Temperature gauge was reading about 260 degrees when the p/r valve went off each time. Problem was I had shut down the draft to nothing and the temperature just kept going up. The only thing that would stop it from blowing the p/r was turning up the t-stat and opening the domestic h/w.
The other thing I can not find anywhere is any type of damper. No manual or barodamper anywhere.
Is it possible that I made too big and hot of a fire? It took about 70lbs of coal to fill the firebox to the top of the firebrick.
Now when I look back, I guess I could have dumped the coals to kill the fire...but that wasn't what I wanted. I wanted it to work.

Do you have an expansion tank in the system?? Water doesn't have to warm up very much in a closed system before it will overpressure a system.. You must have an expansion tank in the system.

Greg L

Thanks for the link. No doubt! I've got some learning to do. Will be up late reading this. It is a boiler by the way. We leased a farm last February and I have been heating it with the cook stove until now. I have been trying to get info on the boiler from the owner but he has not responded. So...like the cookstove I am on my own learning how to do all this.

Yes. A steel expansion tank as described in the the link you sent me.

Wow! What a wealth of information! That answers a lot of questions! I'm not sure evrything is there and where it supposed to be though.

LsFarm wrote:Do you have an expansion tank in the system?? Water doesn't have to warm up very much in a closed system before it will overpressure a system.. You must have an expansion tank in the system.

Greg L

LsFarm wrote:Do you have an expansion tank in the system?? Water doesn't have to warm up very much in a closed system before it will overpressure a system.. You must have an expansion tank in the system.

Greg L

If that is the case I guess I am confused as to how to regulate the firebox temperature. I've read a lot on here as to what the temperatures should be at the firebox and the flu. Is the temperature I read on the temperature/pressure the same as the firebox temperature? Also, why was I unable to lower the temperature by closing the draft? Just too much fired coal? Again...there is no damper controls of any kind. Just an open flu.

OK -- so far by report - its not a hydraulic issue

Coal guys to the rescue

I am turning up my Jackal CD and making some breakfast porridge for me and the dog

Sting wrote:OK -- so far by report - its not a hydraulic issue

Coal guys to the rescue

I am turning up my Jackal CD and making some breakfast porridge for me and the dog

Thanks for the help. What about the lack of both an aquastat and a tempering valve? I noticed this morning that when we showered the water was still boiling hot. My wife burned her foot. There is an electric hwh tied into the system and we never had a problem with the water being too hot due to the temperature regulator on the hwh. Also, isn't it a little strange for the water to still be boiling hot the next morning after the fire has died?
I thought it was pretty cool to see the blow off from the p/r valve melt the snow in the yard until I read the link you sent me. I have now cut the pipe back to the inside of the boiler room. Didn't see any ice clogs in the pipe but I can see where it could happen. Scary.
I'll take help on this anywhere I can get it.
I thought about trying it again this evening with not so much coal. But it seems that if I do that I am just diminishing the amount of burn time between refueling. Seems like the key here is to be able to control the heat produced like I do on the cookstove. By the way, the boiler also has a caloric draft vent that the chain was off of. Not that I needed it. Just the opposite.
Another by the way for the coal guys, all that is available down here is stove coal so that it what I am using.
Another 3-6 inches on the way tonight and a larger accumulation this weekend, so I am hoping to get this figured out soon.
Thanks again for the replies.
Lee

I was wrong

sustainable wrote:I noticed this morning that when we showered the water was still boiling hot. My wife burned her foot.
Lee

domestic hot water scalding pink parts in the shower ??????





not good

http://contractormag.com/plumbing/cm_column_168/

Read the descriptive article above as to why!

Your hot water tap is a claymore mine and the trip is simply lifting the tap for water!

What about guests?

What about a chance moment in your day?

is it worth the risk --

NO

YES - by all means send over code temp water to you dish washer -- no hands will ever be exposed there and you dishes will be cleaner and your family will be healthier. That's not a code violation -- its smart to do!

But I submit -- there is no POSSIBLE SANE reason to send Domestic hot water out to the taps above code limit of 125 degrees. (period - exclamation mark - attention signal - )

Turn off the Hot water production from the boiler NOW

Hire a licensed plumber and get him in there to install a thermal limiting valve before you really hurt your self.

OK -- ill go lay by my dish again.

i also really would luv a copy of manual for my multitherm ! if any of yas find please be kind and alow me a copy
ill keep looking but its not looking good lol

[quote="Matthaus"]kevijohn check your PMs (I replied to your request), overall I think the basic owners manual for any automatically control (draft damper) hand fed boiler will be of help. Maybe coaledsweat has a copy of his manual for you to look at as well.

As you found out you can purchase the grates for your boiler, as already stated everything else you need can be bought from plumbing supply or online wood boiler supply houses.

Including the chamber?

Bought a van wert Simplex Multitherm. I have the manual but could use suggestions from people who have installed one.
thanks,
Geoff

Maybe have a chat with Arnie...

ahuntley wrote:HI iam arnie huntley with a b van wert coal stoker inc .vw multitherm was a very good hand fired unit. i dont stock any parts for them.ido make new automatic stoker boilers with oil backup.if you need some parts i might be able to steer you in the right direction.

arnie 315 440 0851 cell