Chimney Connection From Stoker

jrn8265 · Post by **jrn8265** » Thu. Jan. 15, 2009 7:56 am

Seems I will not be able to have one welded solid pipe off of my stoker into the chimney so we are going to use standard piping that will need to be screwed and glued. Questions;

1. What is the name of the cement we should use to seal up the pipe so we have no carbon monoxide concerns after it is screwed?

2. How do we make it so the pipe can be removed from the chimney for chimney cleaning if it is all cemented up and screwed?

3. I have read about putting in a TEE so I can open up and vacumm in the pipe all the flyash out....where should that go and where should the baro damper go?

Thank you, a novice of course but learning!

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Thu. Jan. 15, 2009 8:04 am

If you have a natural draft chimney, the pipes really don;t need to be sealed, just 3 screws in each for easy removal, the pipe is under a vacuum anyway, so it should pull air from the room into the pipe. But you can use the Stove Cement, but I would use some type of Hi-Temp Silicone sealer, you can get the Rutland? Hi Temp Silicone in a tube and use that. Works better than the stove cement that gets kinda crusty over time.

The Tee (with cap) can be put where it transitions from Vertical to Horizontal right before the chimney where an elbow would be (look in the Pics of your Stove Section) to see the various setups.

The Baro Can be placed in any Vertical or Horizontal section at min. 18" from the stove.

samhill · Post by **samhill** » Thu. Jan. 15, 2009 10:19 am

Just wondering if what you call standard piping is stainless or not? There`s a lot of info on that here, I might be wrong but if your putting in a DV koker you might not need the damper. I`m sure you`ll get more & better advise, better to do it right the first time.

jrn8265 · Post by **jrn8265** » Thu. Jan. 15, 2009 10:29 am

Thanks all, using stainless steel to chimney off stoker, no DV. Right now trying to find some good high temp stuff to seal the joints that are screwed...would think it would have to support temps of over 600 degrees....Rutland Silicone says 450 degrees only.

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Thu. Jan. 15, 2009 10:59 am

I don;t think the pipes would get that hot on the outside. I used on teh front of my stove and it has seen over 500 dgrees.

My exhaust peaks out about 250-300 INSIDE the pipe with a temp. Probe (After the baro), the outside is quite a bit less than that.

Go to an Autoparts store, you can use the High Temp RTV for engines and head gaskets, that should go over 500 degrees.

coal berner · Post by **coal berner** » Thu. Jan. 15, 2009 11:03 am

jrn8265 wrote:Thanks all, using stainless steel to chimney off stoker, no DV. Right now trying to find some good high temp stuff to seal the joints that are screwed...would think it would have to support temps of over 600 degrees....Rutland Silicone says 450 degrees only.

You can use any of these Products the tape is good for 600F you stoker Pipe should never hit that high of a temp using a baro .

http://shop.doityourself.com/invt/u195412

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-High-Temp-Silicone ... B0006SNLPC

**Broken Link(s) Removed**

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http://www.acehardware.com/sm-rutland-hi-temp-sto ... 45565.html

http://heating-and-cooling.hardwarestore.com/98-5 ... ,prod.prod