Modified Stove With Ducting

Thanks Horace and a couple of others that have gone before, I have modified my Channing III to try and get more of the radient heat from the blower up to the first floor. My first design was with one modified register boot, I just got done tracking down a wye and added the second. We'll see how it goes. I hope to purchase the ther top for this stove, that has a collar for this purpose.
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thought I'd share.

lol, I would of thought someone would of found this interesting? btw its evened out the temps from the basement to the first floor a lot. it use to be 10 to 15* difference between the basement and 1st floor.. now its about 4 to 6* different . This is my last science project for the stove... for this year Next year we start all over.

baro adjusted : Check
Manometer installed : Check
Redirected heat to 1st floor : Check
Saving over $100 a month on electric heat : Check
Saving over $1200 this season not using propane for heat : Check
TripLite inverter : Next year
Coal-Trol : Next year
New top for stove to get rid of Robbie the robot : Next year
Cold Air returns from 1st floor back rooms : Next year
missalaneous : Next year

GettingStoked wrote:. This is my last science project for the stove... for this year

Looks like it should definitely work!!

One question?......Is your wife bound & gagged in a closet somewhere!?

I think its beautiful

Devil505
Ah, you found the only chink in the plan... I can get her to admit its better this way, but she is not real fond of the shiny duct work This is why I'm getting the other top for it next year... Hopefully I can clean it up a bit. To be honest I hardly even notice it anymore... but IT is the first thing people notice when we have company over...

Qball
Qball I couldn't remember who's design I originally saw that was that was the inspiration.. and it was yours... and then it was Horace's "termporary" setup I followed ...thanks for sharing.

Devil505 wrote:

GettingStoked wrote:. This is my last science project for the stove... for this year

Looks like it should definitely work!!

One question?......Is your wife bound & gagged in a closet somewhere!?

Third season using mine set up this way. I was using flex duct but it was a bit short and split. When I moved the stove to hook it up to the chimney after doing away with the direct vent, I used solid ducts. Works very well. As $$ permits I'm going with WNY's idea and cut a hole in the top to install a takoff for the ductwork and close off the front.

Jeff

I had talked to the wife about building a hood and ducting the heat upstairs when I install the coal stove. I showed her your set up and now she's reaching for her pistol..... LOL

your stove looks sad but glad its been working for you.

ceccil wrote:Third season using mine set up this way. I was using flex duct but I was a bit short and split. When I moved the stove to hook it up to the chimney after doing away with the direct vent, I used solid ducts. Works very well. As $$ permits I'm going with WNY's idea and cut a hole in the top to install a takoff for the ductwork and close off the front.

Jeff

I bet if you had sheet metal skills you could probably do something pretty sweet... I was happy not to cut into a major artery Does anyone know where to get the black pipe... when I was at HD and another place (where I got the wye) I didn't see any? Is it a special item and can you get anything that is in silver also in black.. like the flex pipe?

ColdinVT wrote:I had talked to the wife about building a hood and ducting the heat upstairs when I install the coal stove. I showed her your set up and now she's reaching for her pistol..... LOL

Pipe is not special, Depo does not carry it. I have found it at Lowes and my local hardware store. I have wondered why
people do not run black pipe to move the heat, I can not see moisture/corrosion being an issue. It would still look funky, but
not nearly as "industrial".

GettingStoked wrote:your stove looks sad but glad its been working for you.

Why do you say it looks sad? It was a little dirty at the time of pic, just got done with coil and ductwork and hadn't cleaned up yet.

Jeff

I was just joking with ya. Not to get off topic.. but I see your from Elmira... I have a bunch of relatives up there... Nice area.

ceccil wrote:

GettingStoked wrote:your stove looks sad but glad its been working for you.

Why do you say it looks sad? It was a little dirty at the time of pic, just got done with coil and ductwork and hadn't cleaned up yet.

Jeff

I guess you could say it does look a little sad because you can't see the show through the steel plate. Glass cracked and replaced it with a plate. Stove isn't in our living area anyway so it doesn'tmake much difference. If I ever move it to a living area I will replace the glass. Glass was about $45 and steel plate cost me $5. No brainer there.

Jeff

A painter / wall-paperer / carpenter / jack-of-all-building-trades told me years ago: paint it flat black and it will pretty much "disappear".

I have not as of yet dealt with my temp between floor differences. When upstairs is 75 degrees, the room with the stove feels like it is at about 1000 degrees

I was thinking of placing an all black large kitchen cooktop type hood over the stove with straight black pipe off of the top going into the ceiling- floor above- and adding a fan in the pipe top where it connects to the ceiling above to draw it up to the floor above. I would leave the distribution blower on low so that it would tend to rise naturally into the hood and I wasn't blowing too much air out into the room. If the variable speed kitchen hood fan had a draw greater than the speed of the distribution blower, do you think it would draw the heat up similar to boiling pots on a cooktop? Also how far above the stove could I have the hood and still be effective?