Should new, properly installed windows leak air?

Ya. I think most of us thought it was coming from where the sash's meet. That would be like between the two locks but all the way across. If that made sense.

Here's some video...



DUDE... I could save money and have my wife blow dry her hair RIGHT THERE!

yeah something is wrong. NO WAY should you have a draft like that from any new window especially a Simonton!

So... I'm not crazy eh...? Check the trees in the background... they're not moving all that much are they...

I think I'd still request to have a factory rep to look at it. Simonton is one of the elite vinyl window builders and doesn't want crap like that with there products. I'm sure they will find the problem if your contractor can't/won't

We're trying to plan a day the rep can come out... but it needs to be windy! So that is in the works. Thanks for your supportive comments.

I know this was posted in 2009 but I just read it. I have had had Simonton windows since 2000 and they were properly installed. We built a brand new home from a reputable builder and we have had leaky Simonton windows from the start. That was the first time our builder used that brand and they soon stopped after our problems were noticed and Simonton wouldn't stand behind their product. We could also see the curtains move and ice build up on the inside during the winter and no the humidity isn't turned too high and no we havn't taken too many showers as a Simonton rep said to us. He even tried to blame it on the security system we had installed. The upper level of our home does not have the security system installed and those windows still leak. The rep even said that if we put on storm windows it would void the warranty.What a threat since they don't stand behind their product anyways. The Simonton rep gave us foam inserts to put in the tracks which didn't help. The air conditioner and the furnace can not keep up so they run constantly. I bought insulated cellular shades to help but the windows are terrible. We even had a front door blower test done and the windows failed.We didn't have the money to higher a lawyer or to buy new windows so we are just stuck. I have a neighbor who had Simonton windows put in their new home and they have the same problems. Why can't Simonton stand behind their products and quit making windows that leak? These windows are not even good for the South because in the summer our air conditioner has a hard time keeping up.If I had not put in the cellular shades to keep the sun out the air conditioner could not keep the house cool. I wish I new what I could do to fix this problem but the only fix is probably to have them replaced which will be very costly since we have 35 windows.

Thanks for your ear,
CC

Just a suggestion, they have clear removable caulk at Home Depot. You could pick the windows you don't need to open, and caulk the seams up tight. You could probably do 2-3 windows per tube. The stuff will peel right off in a line so it could be a semi-permanent solution.

Thanks I think I will give that a try.

CCC

I had the same exact problem with leaks in a Metal Industries single hung window I installed a few years ago. I stuffed pieces of paper towl in the track to sash corner where the leaks are. I did this every winter and took the paper towl pieces out come spring. One shouldn't have to do this of course, but it worked and was easy to do.

I installed slightly more expensive vinyl windows in my porch. When the wind blows the sashes actualy flex where they meet, leaking like crazy. They whistle like haunted house sound effects. I didn't heat the porch in the winter so I didn't do anything about it.

I just had vinyl window installed in my new (to me) house. I went with the crank out awning windows. They seal just great. I read that the crank out casement type windows also seal better than double hungs do. I know this was true of the wood sash windows and vinyl sash windows I had in my old house. They leaked around the crank mechanisms instead.

My new windows don't leak around the cranks either. These new windows appear to be the best vinyl windows I have had, and they were made right here in New York State. I don't remember the brand. It is something I had never heard of before. My contractor said they are all he uses because they are good and he doesn't get complaints about them.

Hey griz...would you mind looking up the name of that manufacturer?

I've got 6 simonton windows in the back of the house & anderson for all the rest--I put them in 1990--I hate to tell you this, but simonton's suk--the top & bottom sections will/do not seat tightly--Hey, I got what I paid for. I took a half inch sticky insulation & put it over the gap where the windows meet. PS---the latches are terrible

Obviously they should not leak air, its a shame to be stuck like that. When we rehabbed the house back in '93 I put in Andersen 400 series narrowline double hung. It was between them and the Marvin's. They have been very good over the years, no air leaks, no seal failures in any of them. I admit writing the check to buy them was as painful as passing a kidney stone, but when we put the addition on in ~2004 I got the same windows for there also. When I built the garage/workshop I put in builders grade double hung and there was a difference in cost (saved $$) and a difference in performance (air leaks).

At some point I'm going to reconoiter on those window latches & all will be well. As they are, they just hold them down, not together. In fact, the latch's seem to spread them more--I'll figure something out.

Fred...you mention the latches seem to spread the sashes, check to see if your latches are actually lining up correctly. I know the ones I have in the garage, if they are not lined up just right will push the sashes apart as you describe.

I'll try to describe how it works on mine, hopefully it will make sense...
There is a groove on the bottom of the round part of the latch that is supposed to catch a similarly shaped tongue on the inside of the mating part of the latch. If the groove part of the round latch is not "in" far enough the tongue will hit the outside edge of the round part of the latch and force the sash apart. It will push them apart by about 1/4" or so at the latch.