Questions about Leisure Line stoves

Questions about Leisure Line stoves

PostBy: rschoensta On: Sun Oct 15, 2006 9:05 am

Hi,

I am considering buying a coal stove and Leisure Line is one in particular that I am considering.

I have two options for installing.
One in the basement, the other in an existing fireplace on the 1st floor.
The sideloading models that Leisure Line makes would work well in the fireplace.

I went to the nearest dealer last week to look and noticed they were were constructed of lighter weight steel than the Keystokers and Alaska's I was looking at and much lighter, less than half the weight, than the Magnum Stoker.

What is the logic behind this?
I.e. aside from cost cutting what makes leisure believe that lighter weight construction is ok?

Rich
rschoensta
 

PostBy: Jerry & Karen On: Sun Oct 15, 2006 1:52 pm

Hi,
Cost of the steel is a very small savings. The reason behind the 1/8 steel is the radiant heat from the stove body. We can't find a good reason for 1/4 plate steel stoves. With a stoker the fire never touches the sides or top of the unit. The quicker the heat radiates through the steel the better. A good explanation of our thoery is the insulation method. Hold a torch to a piece of 1/8 steel and see how long it takes for the other side to heat up, now do the same test to 1/4 steel. The harder it is to radiate through the steel, the easier it is to go up the smoke pipe. This is our explanation for using 1/8 steel, the other companies won't agree with this, but it's hard to argue with science. Hopefully I answered your question. It doesn't matter what brand of coal stove you buy, buying a coal stove will save you money.
Jerry LLS :) :)
Jerry & Karen
 

PostBy: LsFarm On: Sun Oct 15, 2006 3:06 pm

Hello Jerry, I like the explaination about the thinner steel it makes a lot of sense. I have an additional question though: how much rust and corrosion is there in the inside of a stoker stove?? If it is significant, wouldn't a thicker steel construction last longer??

If rust and corrosion is an issue, I'd assume someone would make stokers out of 304 or 409 stainless steel, and I haven't seen any. Is there any problem with the 1/8" steel panels contorting with heat??

What thickness of steel or cast iron is used in the stoker mechanism??

Thanks for your time, Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

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PostBy: Jerry & Karen On: Sun Oct 15, 2006 4:06 pm

Ha Greg,
Rust is a factor with anything burning coal. I have replaced a few 20+ year old Alaskas but have only run across few that were rusted really bad. All the old Alaska stoves were made with 12 gauge steel (about .109). It's like anything else and how you take care of it. A little known fact is when cleaning your stove at the end of the burning season, always clean your pipes and stove with baking soda and warm water on a spounge and this will neutralize the acid in the fly ash. After cleaning your pipes, stuff them with crinkled up newspaper to absorb any humidity in the summer. Always unhook your pipes from the chimney in the off season so no moisture will get into the stove. Burning oiled coal is another way to help prevent rust. Stainless is WAY TO EXPENSIVE. Our power vent is made from 316 stainless and has increased to me over $42.00 this year alone. On our burn area, grate, it is made out of cast iron. Our grate is a really heavy duty item, weighing about 33lbs. I think it's over structured but in 11 years we have never had one back. Now that you made me give up 30+ years of secrets I'll go back to building stoves.
Jerry LLS
Jerry & Karen
 

PostBy: LsFarm On: Sun Oct 15, 2006 9:23 pm

Hi Jerry, thanks for the reply. So if you didn't see any rust or corrosion issues with the 12ga. [.109"] steel after 20 years, then your .125" steel should be more than adequate for several decades of use, more with proper maintenance. And why send heat up the chimney trying to heat up excess steel?

Thank you for the information about neutralizing the acid from the coal's fly ash. It's good info.

I'm currious, you use stainless in the powervent system, do you see any corrosion issues with the stainless steel?? The reason I ask is that I built my boiler out of stainless. It would be very difficult to clean and wash down the inside of my boiler, so I'm hoping that the expensive stainless steel will hold up to the acids from the fly ash.


Thanks again for your time. Greg L

.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

PostBy: bksaun On: Mon Nov 20, 2006 6:47 pm

Hi Jerry,

Will your hot air jacket for the hyfire fit an Alaska Channing III?
I have a new one, did not know about you guy's until I found this forum.

BK
bksaun
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Hybrid, Gentleman Janitor GJ-6RSU/ EFM 700
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 503
Coal Size/Type: Pea Stoker/Bit, Pea or Nut Anthracite
Stove/Furnace Make: Hitzer/ EFM-Gentleman Janitor
Stove/Furnace Model: 503 Insert/ 700/GJ-62

PostBy: Jerry & Karen On: Mon Nov 20, 2006 7:03 pm

Hi,
Sorry, the jacket is costume fit to the Hyfire.
Thanks for asking,
Jerry
Jerry & Karen
 

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