Firebox Reducer

The pic is a drawing of the firebox reducer plate i'm concidering. It would serve 2 purposes. 1. eliminate the dead spots in the corners, Hopefully burn more like a round firebox. 2. Eliminate the over-temp relay from kicking in as much as it does. Basicly the Harman 160 is rated for 2200 sqft. and i'm only heating 1800 sqft. so I think reducing the firebox would not be a problem.
The only thing of concern is I think a 1/2" SS plate is going to a bit pricey and am wondering if the different temps the grates will see is a concern.

Opinions please.

Sorry, was tring to attach a cad drawing, but program doesn't seem to allow it.
Basicly the plate reduces the firebox by an 1 1/4" all round and clips the corners at a 45* angle.

Save the CAD as a PDF or JPEG then it should post.

Thanks CapeCoaler,
not a very good job on the scaling, but the idea hopefully can be seen.

Why not use castable refractory for the corners or for the whole thing?

Richard

Franco b, tell me more, what are castable refractory and how are they made???

My stove (Dutchwest Federal) can have the firebox reuced easily since it has 3 independent shaker grates, front to back. I can just pile brick in it & not use 2 of the 3 shakers.

Jeddbird, Do you really block off 2 of the 3 grates and still get enough heat. That must be a hugh stove or you got a little house.

JB Sparks wrote:Jeddbird, Do you really block off 2 of the 3 grates and still get enough heat. That must be a hugh stove or you got a little house.

It is a large very deep stove. I only do the firebox reduction early & late in the heating season when I don't need as much heat. I pile bricks in the back of the stove covering the back 2 shakers & leave room up front to load coal which UI can shake with the front shaker. It works fine.

Jeddbird wrote:

JB Sparks wrote:Jeddbird, Do you really block off 2 of the 3 grates and still get enough heat. That must be a hugh stove or you got a little house.

It is a large very deep stove. I only do the firebox reduction early & late in the heating season when I don't need as much heat. I pile bricks in the back of the stove covering the back 2 shakers & leave room up front to load coal which UI can shake with the front shaker. It works fine.

I've got a Hitzer 983 insert, (which I love!). Its got three shaker grates (they run front to back)....I get more than enough heat from this insert.....I'm thinking of loading bricks on the left and the right and only using the center, during springtime when it is too warm in the house. What kind of brick do you use....firebrick?

JBsparks - ask around, I have a 5 gal. pail of high-temperature cement a friend gave me after a blast furnace stove job --
it works great to patch fire brick and I would guess the cost is below that of a 1/2 in St. steel plate .. an industial supply house should be able to order one in for you. I used it in my Hitzer 354 to cement in the tops of the fire brick after removing the original retainer. Also as mentioned, in the spring this year I plan to shake just one of the grates on the H503,
I believe that will give more than enough heat on 50 degree days. baldeagle

BM-80 wrote:What kind of brick do you use....firebrick?

I just use regular brick to take up space. Anything non-combustible will work, you could even put a boulder in there.

Jeddbird and Baldeagle, Thanks for the info, I will look into it.

JB Sparks wrote:Franco b, tell me more, what are castable refractory and how are they made???

Castable refractory is a refractory materiel like fire brick that comes as a powder or maybe ready mixed that you add water and place into a mold of whatever shape you want. Like using ready mix cement. The Rutland site lists it or you can find it anywhere that supplies people who do pottery work to make kilns. You can make a wooden mold (coat with oil on the inside first before pouring), or sheet metal.

I used it to line an old pot belly stove. Easy to use and worked very well. As in using cement use just enough water to make it workable and not too runny. It should be tamped into place rather than poured. Let it set and you have any shape you wish. It is not cheap though. Maybe $20.00 for a gallon.

Richard

Franco b, that is great info. I've work with concrete a lot so I know what you mean about the amount of water. I think i'll try it 20 Bucks a bag is not too bad.
Would you recommend using any reenforsement like stiff wire because of the sides being long and narrow?

JB Sparks wrote:Franco b, that is great info. I've work with concrete a lot so I know what you mean about the amount of water. I think i'll try it 20 Bucks a bag is not too bad.
Would you recommend using any reenforsement like stiff wire because of the sides being long and narrow?

I would suggest you cast it in place with the stove wall one side of the mold. Becomes part of the stove and much better fit and stronger. You will need a bottom for the mold to hold it up off the grate. Used this way it does not need any reinforcement. Not sure how steel reinforcement would behave in this environment. I would not use it. One suggeston was to use thin plywood for the bottom and just let it burn out.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**This is just one source. If you Google castable refractory you can probably find more. You may need a larger quantity. You might also try pottery supplies as it is used for kilns.

Richard