Visible Indications of Proper Baro Draft Setting

I am experiencing significant ash in and around the ash pan (particularly on the side of the ash pan cloest to the fule exhuast, and in the T. I am wondering if this is an indicator that things are getting pulled up the flue too quickly (i.e. baro setting should be lower?) OR even with an accurate baro setting if ash surrounding the pan and in the T is normal?

I have the FC type M baro that came with the stove and the setting was preset from the factory. I have not set it with a manometer because it seems, I would need to drill a hole into the stove body and I have just not gotten to this

Nope, all stoves have fly ASH all around the inside, this is normal. You need to clean it out every month or so. It has nothing to do with the draft.

The Baro can be calibrated from the pipe also, if you can get a small hole drilled before the baro into the pipe, that is all you need to check the draft. It's doesn't neccessary have to be into the stove itself.

An baro type RC is recommended and you really need to set your baro with a Manometer (Draft gauge) for proper draft of your stove. You can probalby changed the weight on your Type M, but you need a draft gauge to set it up correctly.

There is nothing to accomodate draft setting on the stove itself. There is a rectangular metal box primarily for fly ash containment coming off of the back of the stove and the baro is T-ed into that. I can drill a hole into it. The M can be adjusted. Is this something that I can do while the stove is fired up- safety considered first of course. An what would I use to plug the hole when not checking the draft?

Separately, currently with the factory set at .06 the baro on 3/4 max burn is open about an index finger's worth. Let's say that after checking with a manometer, the baro was adjusted to .04. What kind of coal useage or temperature difference would you expect?

Yes, once you get your draft gauge, drilling a small hole in your pipe or ash containment exhaust area (somewhere before the baro and the stove), If you get a small enough end on your draft gauge (Like the one used for blowing up a football, basketball, etc..), you might just be able to remove a screw that holds your pipe together and take a reading from there too.

You can do it while the stove is running, the pipe will be under slight vacuum, so it won't hurt anything to drill a small hole. Then just put a piece of HVAC metal foil tape or a plug in the hole when done.

Also, Some stoves have a little Hex Setscrew in the ash door corner for taking a draft measurements.

WNY wrote:Nope, all stoves have fly ASH all around the inside, this is normal. You need to clean it out every month or so. It has nothing to do with the draft.

The Baro can be calibrated from the pipe also, if you can get a small hole drilled before the baro into the pipe, that is all you need to check the draft. It's doesn't neccessary have to be into the stove itself.

An baro type RC is recommended and you really need to set your baro with a Manometer (Draft gauge) for proper draft of your stove. You can probalby changed the weight on your Type M, but you need a draft gauge to set it up correctly.

Dave Just so no one gets confused a M model baro is design for coal units as is the RC model and all baro should be calibrated with a draft gauge or Manometer .

http://fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php