Hi Folks,
My Alaska Kodiak has finally shown up at the dealer,I should be taking delivery next week. I ordered it in October so compared to others a February delivery is not that bad.
I'm tying to do some pre prep and if any one out there has a newer version of the Alaska Kodiak hand fired I would appreciate a measurement from the base to the top of the flue pipe connection in the back.
Also I'm planning to burn it in out side, do I need to connect a flue pipe in the driveway to create draft or can just run out the back of the unit. I'm sure I'll be looking for more help soon.I'll keep you all posted and get some photos going.
Thanks for any help or advise.
-john
New Kodiak Has Arrived, Dimenison Help Needed
- Paperboy
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- Joined: Tue. Nov. 04, 2008 5:08 pm
- Location: Upstate New York
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska Kodiak; Atlanta Homesteader
It's about 28-1/2" +/- 1/2" from the floor up to the top of the flue ring. That's the best I can do while the stove is hot. Couldn't hold the tape measure real close!
You will probably want at least an elbow and a 2' section of pipe to burn outside. I just built a small fire with kindling wood and seasoned mine inside. The stink wasn't really that bad.
I think you will be happy with the Kodiak. If you have any questions when you get burning, let me know. I went through the learning curve after installing mine in November.
Mike
You will probably want at least an elbow and a 2' section of pipe to burn outside. I just built a small fire with kindling wood and seasoned mine inside. The stink wasn't really that bad.
I think you will be happy with the Kodiak. If you have any questions when you get burning, let me know. I went through the learning curve after installing mine in November.
Mike
- hotrodzz68
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- Location: Central MA
Thanks Mike, I may have a problem, from the hearth to the top of the fire place opening is 29 1/2 " plus I have to add in the thickness of the hearth extension about 1 '' this makes it too tall for my opening. %&$#*. Plus their is the iron damper housing still in the opening that drops it another inch.
-john
any suggestions !-john
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Are the legs removable?
Shorter legs would bee the easiest way.
Core the chimney flue above the damper and add a thimble.
Shorter legs would bee the easiest way.
Core the chimney flue above the damper and add a thimble.
- grizzly2
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- Other Heating: Oil foilfurnace, Jotul#3 woodstove,electric base board.
When you connect stove pipe to your flue collar you can probably angle it downward enough to clear the chimney dammper plate. Won't you be removing the chimney damper and replace it with a plate with a hole for the stove pipe
- hotrodzz68
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I suppose I could cut down the legs a bit, I honestly don't remember what the thing looks like, I haven't taken possession yet. Don't know if there are any legs to cut down,from the brochure it looks pretty low to the ground already. My chimney "professional" who installed the SS liner didn't remove the damper housing,he just fab'd up a piece of sheet metal to close the hole and stuffed insulation around it.
I also got this SS tee with the liner,my intention was to connect another tee with a barro. I'll have to see if there's any leeway to tilt the flue pipe downward, but I won't be able to find out until it's almost together.
I also got this SS tee with the liner,my intention was to connect another tee with a barro. I'll have to see if there's any leeway to tilt the flue pipe downward, but I won't be able to find out until it's almost together.
Attachments
The legs on mine are 3". They are welded on. I suppose you could cut some off of them, but the back legs have some threaded adjusters that you would lose. Still, it may be easier than modifying the fireplace. Mine also measures about 28-1/2 or so to the top of the flue ring, so at least they're consistent.
- hotrodzz68
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Thanks for the info, I guess I'll just have to wrestle with it during the install. I assume I should maintain at least an 1'' of air gap from the bottom, maybe an 1 1/2 and some creative tin knocking will do the on the pipe could solve the problem.
Any one dead set against reducing the air gap under the unit.
thanks john
Any one dead set against reducing the air gap under the unit.
thanks john
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The ash pan area acts as a heat shield so a 1" air gap should be fine.
If it were a solid masonry hearth I would say grind them flush but you seem to have a pad over wood.
I would ask alaska about it to be 'official'.
If it were a solid masonry hearth I would say grind them flush but you seem to have a pad over wood.
I would ask alaska about it to be 'official'.