New to the Harman DVC500 and Have a Few Questions

kevin63392003 · Post by **kevin63392003** » Tue. Feb. 03, 2009 11:00 am

Hi. I am completely new to coal stoves. After getting a $400 gas bill in December I decided I had to do something different. I purchased the DVC500 and it should arrive in the next week. In the mean time, I have a few questions that I would greately appreciate some help on.
1. I am mounting this in the coner on my 1st floor (above ground). what should I expect to pay for the vent pipe?
2. I have heard that mixing rice and buckwheat coal is better than just buring the rice that Harman recommends. Has anybody tried this?
3. What is the best way to start the fire? I read someone saying they used 2 or 3 pieces of mice coal. What is that?
4. Is there typically a time of the year when the coal is cheapest to buy?
5. For this winter, I just had the coal dumped in my garage. I'm going to build an outdoor bin in the spring. how many cubic feet do I need per ton of rice coal?

If there is anything else I should be aware of, please let me know.
Thanks,
Kevin

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Tue. Feb. 03, 2009 11:26 am

First, All your questions have been answered in many other discussions on here, if you search for them.

1. Depends on how far you have to run it to the outside, Make sure have the clearances for a corner mount. They are more clearances needed than standard straight mount.

2. No, most stoves only burn RICE unless setup to burn Buckwheat and/or a mix of both. Probably not recommended on your stove, you may have a hopper fire.

3. COAL MICE that your dealer probably has, or charcoal, Cowboy coal, cut up flare or combo of any. (Do Search on Starting Coal)

4. Sometimes in summer, but most dealers keep their pricing pretty consistent. Go directly to the breakers in PA to get it the cheapest. (Look under the 2009 COAL PRICING section)

5. Do a search on COAL BIN SIZE (40 Cubic Ft per TON approx.). Take your total size of your bin and divide by 40.
ie. 4' x 8' x 4' high = 128 / 40 = 3.2 Ton (Approx.)

CO Detectors are a must !! Local Fire and or Building Code Inspection depending on your local codes for installation.

kevin63392003 · Post by **kevin63392003** » Wed. Feb. 04, 2009 9:05 am

Thanks for the info. It is greatly appreciated.

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Wed. Feb. 04, 2009 9:59 am

Anything else, just ask.

009to090 · Post by **009to090** » Wed. Feb. 04, 2009 10:32 am

I just installed my DVC-500 in a corner. Two pieces are required (minimum). I had to buy the 45 angle, and the 8" wall terminator. Just for those two pieces, the cost was about $480

OUCH!. But what can you do? It comes directly from Harman. Not sure if the dealer is over-pricing it.
The type "L" pipe youe will need on the outside, came up to about $250. I used stainless steel, not Galvanized.

Yep, most other questions are answered in other threads. Just search for them. Theres ALOT of info out there

Hope this helps.

Chris F.

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Wed. Feb. 04, 2009 10:33 am

That is the way those stoves are vented and the special pieces required from Harmon.
Most other stoves use basic stove pipe, much cheaper.

kevin63392003 · Post by **kevin63392003** » Wed. Feb. 04, 2009 11:58 am

DVC500_at_last wrote:I just installed my DVC-500 in a corner. Two pieces are required (minimum). I had to buy the 45 angle, and the 8" wall terminator. Just for those two pieces, the cost was about $480 OUCH!. But what can you do? It comes directly from Harman. Not sure if the dealer is over-pricing it.
The type "L" pipe youe will need on the outside, came up to about $250. I used stainless steel, not Galvanized.

Yep, most other questions are answered in other threads. Just search for them. Theres ALOT of info out there

Hope this helps.

Chris F.

Wow that is expensive pipe. Thanks for the info. I will feel better now being somewhat educated incase the dealer trys to overcvharge me.

Kevin

em1ss · Post by **em1ss** » Sat. Feb. 07, 2009 11:30 am

kevin63392003 wrote:
"1. I am mounting this in the coner on my 1st floor (above ground). what should I expect to pay for the vent pipe?"

I had my price set when I ordered including corner installation and floor pad. Plank house with a 10" solid wall made it interesting for them. I ordered at end of last winter and was already 26th on the list to be installed.

"2. I have heard that mixing rice and buckwheat coal is better than just buring the rice that Harman recommends. Has anybody tried this?"

Wouldn't recommend this I believe a DVC500 is set up for Rice only.

"3. What is the best way to start the fire? I read someone saying they used 2 or 3 pieces of mice coal. What is that?"

I just buy the mice, have only had to start twice this season. Once for cleanup check before Christmas.

"4. Is there typically a time of the year when the coal is cheapest to buy?"

Ordered mine delivered early to mid summer. Allows for availability, scheduling and drying time.

"5. For this winter, I just had the coal dumped in my garage. I'm going to build an outdoor bin in the spring. how many cubic feet do I need per ton of rice coal?"

I built a shed on top of deck blocks with deckboard flooring to allow for drainage. Side shoot window (no higher than 5 feet from ground) for filling and a front steel access door. I put slots on the inside jamb of the door to hold 2x6's to keep the coal from spilling out and allow for removal as the pile lowers. Upper roof area I made a shelf to store 2x6's shovel etc. Use a large galvanized feed scoop to fill buckets. Size per ton was already given, so go a wider than 4 feet inside and you can figure out how to get about 4-5 ton under the side window sill. Sided mine and roofed with eave vents for drying.

"If there is anything else I should be aware of, please let me know."

I have an old large farmhouse and two stairways up to second floor. I opened one floor vent directly up also. No problems getting the heat upstairs. I was getting oil delivered almost once a month peak winter for my oil hot water boiler. So far I have used < 3 ton rice. I put the oil furnace on programmable thermostat and set it to kick on to boost house temp a few degrees for about an hour early am, to ensure no pipes in crawls freeze. Huge savings so far for me. I have probably used 200 gallons of oil since August and I get all my hot water from the boiler too. I would get that in one delivery peak winter. Very pleased with this unit.

Recommend dumping fine tray daily. Get a shop vac with hepa filter bags for cleanup. A strap wrench for T cleanout removal is handy. Dump your ash bin every two days. I use a small galvanized garbage can for hot ashes. Once cool I bag them in kitchen size bags. People have been taking mine for driveway spreading. I can't due to well location, but my garbage man will also take them. Set feed rate at 1 and thermostat control as desired. Mine keeps the house approximately 69-72. I have an unheated enclosed side mud porch which I keep full 5 gallon buckets on, 10 allows me to go about a week and pick the best days to refill

kevin63392003 · Post by **kevin63392003** » Mon. Feb. 09, 2009 2:48 pm

Great. Thank you so much for the info. I do have one other question. How hot does the base of the DVC500 get? I built a pad for the DVC to sit on. my base is 3/4 in OSB board, 1/4" thinset mortar, 1/2" Hardibacker board, 1/4" thinset, then I put my tile on top of that. I just want to make sure the bottom of the DVC doesn't get so hot as to cause me any problems.

WNY · Post by **WNY** » Mon. Feb. 09, 2009 3:15 pm

Shouldn't be that hot, you have the ash pan and sheet metal under the actual burning area. As long as it's non combustible material. You should be fine and you have enough area in the front per installation instructions.

009to090 · Post by **009to090** » Mon. Feb. 09, 2009 4:32 pm

kevin63392003 wrote:Great. Thank you so much for the info. I do have one other question. How hot does the base of the DVC500 get? I built a pad for the DVC to sit on. my base is 3/4 in OSB board, 1/4" thinset mortar, 1/2" Hardibacker board, 1/4" thinset, then I put my tile on top of that. I just want to make sure the bottom of the DVC doesn't get so hot as to cause me any problems.

Hi Kevin. The base on the floor does not get hot at all. Figure about 150F, just to be safe. I think the non-combustable pad is required, "Just-in-Case" something burning falls out while you have the door open. My DVC-500 is a corner installation, on the lower level of the house, which is a slab. See below pic. I removed the carpet in the sorner, in the shape of a quarter circle, and replaced it with cheap ceramic tile from Home Depot (thinset, and grout). I think it looks good, and it meets code. Just make sure you have a MINIMUM of 16" of non-combustable pad in front of stove.

Chris F.

.JPG | 107.8KB | DVC-500.jpg

Nevercold · Post by **Nevercold** » Mon. Feb. 09, 2009 7:26 pm

What I paid....10/05 stove $3198.00
8' wall termination 0.00 included
gold door kit $ 175.00
stainless 4" T $ 70.00
stainless 4"x18" $ 49.00
stainless 4" cap $ 70.00
L.I.,NY tax $307.00
total $3869.00

DVC 45 degree exhaust el....$93.91
freight $15.00
tax $8.10
total $117.01

I live in NJ and picked up stove from Rella coal in Long Island........Nice people to deal with.

Nevercold · Post by **Nevercold** » Mon. Feb. 09, 2009 7:31 pm

I am using patio blocks under stove till I install permanent floor . Quick, cheap and easy.

009to090 · Post by **009to090** » Mon. Feb. 09, 2009 8:49 pm

Nevercold wrote:What I paid....10/05 stove $3198.00
8' wall termination 0.00 included
gold door kit $ 175.00
stainless 4" T $ 70.00
stainless 4"x18" $ 49.00
stainless 4" cap $ 70.00
L.I.,NY tax $307.00
total $3869.00

DVC 45 degree exhaust el....$93.91
freight $15.00
tax $8.10
total $117.01

I live in NJ and picked up stove from Rella coal in Long Island........Nice people to deal with.

That looks like a good price for everything. I paid twice as much as you did for the 45 angle. I also pd $290 shipping, even though I had to pick it up from the dealor. But at least I got it, and its installed and running

Have fun getting yours all together.
FYI.....
I cranked mine up to the StoveTemp 7 over the past 2 hours, and just checked how hot the base is. I do not want to keep my hand on the vertical sides of the pedistal. TOO Hot. I can keep my hands on the BASE of the pedistal, Very warm, but not hot enuf to burn my hand.

Chris F.

kevin63392003 · Post by **kevin63392003** » Tue. Feb. 10, 2009 12:18 pm

Thanks for your help. Your installation looks great, by the way.

DVC500_at_last wrote:
kevin63392003 wrote:Great. Thank you so much for the info. I do have one other question. How hot does the base of the DVC500 get? I built a pad for the DVC to sit on. my base is 3/4 in OSB board, 1/4" thinset mortar, 1/2" Hardibacker board, 1/4" thinset, then I put my tile on top of that. I just want to make sure the bottom of the DVC doesn't get so hot as to cause me any problems.
Hi Kevin. The base on the floor does not get hot at all. Figure about 150F, just to be safe. I think the non-combustable pad is required, "Just-in-Case" something burning falls out while you have the door open. My DVC-500 is a corner installation, on the lower level of the house, which is a slab. See below pic. I removed the carpet in the sorner, in the shape of a quarter circle, and replaced it with cheap ceramic tile from Home Depot (thinset, and grout). I think it looks good, and it meets code. Just make sure you have a MINIMUM of 16" of non-combustable pad in front of stove.

Chris F.

DVC-500.jpg