I just commissioned my Alaska Coal Channing Stove with a SWG power vent system. It seems to be running fine but I believe I need to balance the duct air system. When running on setting 2-3 with the Pwr Vent on, as expained to me you should have about one finger opening between the barometric vent damper and it's rim. The only way to get that I have to set the weight at .08 (full adjustment). The internal Pwr Vent air damper is currently set at at 60% open. I can damp it down more if needed. I think it may be pulling to much air through the duct and would like to adjust the Pwr Vent back to around 40% open and then try to readjust the damper to .04. Is this the right method to balance the system? Will I burn up the Pwr Vent motor at that adjustment? Does the pressure change if the fire rate increases and why the .02 to .04 setting?
I am happy with the installation, but this final adjustment may or may not be necessary. Any thoughts would be helpful.
I am also a first timer. I have just set up a alaska 140 aurger feed system, with a power vent. I fired it up per shotty direction from the book as how to adjust things. I have the proper index finger with for the barometric damper. It seems like im heating the outdoors more than the inside. Do you have this problem? If i hold my hand under the vent it HOT (this is out side) the stove pipe is touchable but not for to long. It just seems that the Power vent is pulling all the hot air outside. Looking for help...
Don't know exactly how the Alaska set up works,but draft on a vented stove is very important! If your draft is to high you will literally suck heat out of the stove. If your draft is to low you will get exhaust seeping back into your home! I run a keystoker and their d.v. stokers do not use a barometric damper! You should have the stove checked with a draft gauge once it warms up to operating temp. Getting the draft correct will provide you more heat with less coal burnt.
I think I may be having the same issues as you guys (I have a Channing III). I feel like I might be losing a lot of heat out the power vent. Be sure to post what you find out here for my benefit and probably several more people's.
I think adding a rheostat in the circuits would not help. 1. You are putting more stress on the motor by not letting it run at full capacity 2. Not sure if the warranty covers non-OEM equipment added. I talked to the fine people at Alaska and was told to put the upper damper back to the factory setting 60# get a good fire going then adjust the bio-damper to one finger with from the top ( I know not all peoples fingers are the same) it comes out to about 5/8- 3/4 of an inch. By setting it to this you are pulling more living space air than stove air. This has help greatly its dropped the stack temp to were I can hold my hand on and keep it, it a with a pretty good size fire. Hope this makes sense.
The opening is set at .6-.8 on the scale. Ive ran it for a week like this it seems to keep more heat in the house than outside, BUT i think that i am going through a lot of coal. I use 1-1.5 buckets a day (5 gallon). So i dont know if thats good or bad. Ive got a lot to learn about theses stoves..
I use about a bag every two days. 20's 30's at night 40's 50's during the day. I keep my power venter on the lowest setting with a 3$ light dimmer control and a orange wire nut holding open the dampner.