Power Vent Adjustment on Alaska Stove

Power Vent Adjustment on Alaska Stove

PostBy: Alan On: Sun Oct 22, 2006 10:10 am

I just commissioned my Alaska Coal Channing Stove with a SWG power vent system. It seems to be running fine but I believe I need to balance the duct air system. When running on setting 2-3 with the Pwr Vent on, as expained to me you should have about one finger opening between the barometric vent damper and it's rim. The only way to get that I have to set the weight at .08 (full adjustment). The internal Pwr Vent air damper is currently set at at 60% open. I can damp it down more if needed. I think it may be pulling to much air through the duct and would like to adjust the Pwr Vent back to around 40% open and then try to readjust the damper to .04. Is this the right method to balance the system? Will I burn up the Pwr Vent motor at that adjustment? Does the pressure change if the fire rate increases and why the .02 to .04 setting?

I am happy with the installation, but this final adjustment may or may not be necessary. Any thoughts would be helpful.
Alan
 

PostBy: Sportsman03 On: Tue Oct 24, 2006 7:23 pm

I am also a first timer. I have just set up a alaska 140 aurger feed system, with a power vent. I fired it up per shotty direction from the book as how to adjust things. I have the proper index finger with for the barometric damper. It seems like im heating the outdoors more than the inside. Do you have this problem? If i hold my hand under the vent it HOT (this is out side) the stove pipe is touchable but not for to long. It just seems that the Power vent is pulling all the hot air outside. Looking for help...


Eric
Sportsman03
 

PostBy: Jerry & Karen On: Tue Oct 24, 2006 8:37 pm

We would all be guessing at the right answer. You guys should be calling the factory for advice.
Jerry
Jerry & Karen
 


PostBy: red ash On: Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:53 pm

Don't know exactly how the Alaska set up works,but draft on a vented stove is very important! If your draft is to high you will literally suck heat out of the stove. If your draft is to low you will get exhaust seeping back into your home! I run a keystoker and their d.v. stokers do not use a barometric damper! You should have the stove checked with a draft gauge once it warms up to operating temp. Getting the draft correct will provide you more heat with less coal burnt.
red ash
 

PostBy: Philippe23 On: Sun Oct 29, 2006 1:23 pm

I think I may be having the same issues as you guys (I have a Channing III). I feel like I might be losing a lot of heat out the power vent. Be sure to post what you find out here for my benefit and probably several more people's.
Philippe23
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing III

PostBy: traderfjp On: Mon Oct 30, 2006 6:02 pm

I read that you can put a rheostat on the motor and that will save energy. You just need to make sure you have a proper draft of co2 will come into your house.
traderfjp
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing 3

PostBy: Philippe23 On: Tue Oct 31, 2006 9:11 am

Yeah, I have rheostats coming out my nose I think: I have one for the feed auger, one for the circulating fan, and then another one on the power vent.
Philippe23
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing III

PostBy: Sportsman03 On: Tue Oct 31, 2006 1:20 pm

I think adding a rheostat in the circuits would not help. 1. You are putting more stress on the motor by not letting it run at full capacity 2. Not sure if the warranty covers non-OEM equipment added. I talked to the fine people at Alaska and was told to put the upper damper back to the factory setting 60# get a good fire going then adjust the bio-damper to one finger with from the top ( I know not all peoples fingers are the same) it comes out to about 5/8- 3/4 of an inch. By setting it to this you are pulling more living space air than stove air. This has help greatly its dropped the stack temp to were I can hold my hand on and keep it, it a with a pretty good size fire. Hope this makes sense.

Eric
Sportsman03
 

PostBy: Philippe23 On: Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:23 am

Hey Eric, one quick question. Alan had said:
When running on setting 2-3 with the Pwr Vent on, as expained to me you should ....

So when you have the 5/8" - 3/4" opening, is that set on the 2 or 3 that Alan mentions, or another setting?
Philippe23
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing III

PostBy: Sportsman03 On: Mon Nov 06, 2006 1:30 pm

The opening is set at .6-.8 on the scale. Ive ran it for a week like this it seems to keep more heat in the house than outside, BUT i think that i am going through a lot of coal. I use 1-1.5 buckets a day (5 gallon). So i dont know if thats good or bad. Ive got a lot to learn about theses stoves..

Eric
Sportsman03
 

PostBy: Philippe23 On: Mon Nov 06, 2006 7:15 pm

How many pounds would you say you're going through per day? (I think the hopper's 100 lbs. -- maybe it's 110....)
Philippe23
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing III

PostBy: Sportsman03 On: Wed Nov 08, 2006 1:08 pm

I weighed a bucket of coal last night. I tipped the scale at 43'ish lb. The bucket was filled to the brim. So everyday i would say i use about 40 lbs. at the dial set to 3.
Eric
Sportsman03
 

PostBy: Philippe23 On: Wed Nov 08, 2006 1:27 pm

Sounds pretty close to what I'm using. About 3.5 on the dial makes me go through a about a 50 lb. bag.
Philippe23
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing III

PostBy: Paul On: Thu Nov 09, 2006 4:35 pm

I use about a bag every two days. 20's 30's at night 40's 50's during the day. I keep my power venter on the lowest setting with a 3$ light dimmer control and a orange wire nut holding open the dampner.
Paul
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing {2}

PostBy: Philippe23 On: Thu Nov 09, 2006 5:50 pm

Paul wrote:I use about a bag every two days.

You have a Channing III too, right Paul?

What's your auger set at? 3?
Philippe23
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing III